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Old 04-05-2013, 08:18 AM   #1
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Suggestions on installing Pex

I'm going to be installing Pex in my trailer. I'm wondering if I should just buy the quick connectors and use the original fixtures?

I'm planning on keeping everything stock except for the fresh water tank and original water filter.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:32 AM   #2
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Draw a plan of the old plumbing before you cut it out. Can't say how many times I had to refer to that to get it right.

In confined areas, try to pre-build an assembly that can be put in place. I used crimp rings, and had to do a lot of planning so that the crimp tool had room to operate.

Four years later, it's been a good system.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:19 AM   #3
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I was rummaging around under the bathroom sink to find a place to install a small surge tank and noticed that there was color coding on the plastic water lines (red for hot). You might want to do that color coding to make hook up easier after a few nights sleeping since running the pipes...
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:37 AM   #4
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pex

How did you hook up to the fixtures? The shower stall is the most confined.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L911 View Post
How did you hook up to the fixtures? The shower stall is the most confined.
Good or bad, *LOTS* of people short-cut the supply to the shower in 70s trailers with plastic bathrooms and no access panels.

In my trailer, the PO joined the PEX to the old copper under the bathroom sink, so it's still the original copper running behind the plastic walls to the shower valves. Of course, that only works if the pipe, joints and shower valve are still sound in your trailer. It irks me a bit, but I'm not presently in a mood to take the whole thing apart so as long as it doesn't leak I'll work on other stuff.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:23 AM   #6
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I replaced plumbing to my shower valve with PEX and one of the PEX elbows is leaking. I kinda wish I had just gone the CPVC route and saved myself a ton of money and aggrevation dealing with PEX.

Perry
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:13 PM   #7
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I did pex thruout my Argosy, but used flex lines to connect to the faucets. Also, with the flex lines behind the shower, less likely of a leak. And I did all of my pex as a unit out of the trailer, using the home run style,or manifold style with brass T's and Elbows.
Then I took all the old copper to the recyler, got $50 to apply towards new plumbing cost.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:43 PM   #8
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Thanks, I've just got to talk myself into doing the job. Got to do it soon, camping will start in May for us....
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:05 PM   #9
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I did the conversion on our trailer into two parts to match our incremental remodel. I had to tear out the old plastic bathroom to fix the rear end separation, and ended up rebuilding the whole thing. I use PEX and Sharkbite fittings; this is more expensive than the crimp method but I believe easier to install in cramped locations such as our vanity, in which one small compartment takes the shower and bathroom sink plumbing.

For small areas with lots of connections, using 1/2" copper water pipe and building a manifold (to which the Sharkbite fittings attach directly) saved money and time and space.

One reason I used the Sharkbite is that I plan to add a circulation pump to allow us to save water when boondocking; no need to run the water to get hot water to the facet or shower. This will also help prevent freezing in cold weather; leave the heater on and the (low amp draw) pump running and we'll be able to keep the areas w/ pumbing above freezing more easily.

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Old 04-05-2013, 09:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
Draw a plan of the old plumbing before you cut it out. Can't say how many times I had to refer to that to get it right.

In confined areas, try to pre-build an assembly that can be put in place. I used crimp rings, and had to do a lot of planning so that the crimp tool had room to operate.

Four years later, it's been a good system.
mimi is right on. Pex is clearly the way to go. I built small assemblies first. I used 1/2" and some 3/8" pex. I would have used more 3/8" pex but very few fittings are made for 3/8" pex. There is a small crimping tool available that will crimp in a tight space using vise grips. I think it was only $10-$15 at Lowes. This is what I used to make the final crimps where working quarters were really tight.

All in all a pretty easy job. No leaks after 2 years. Using Pex is a no brainer.

There is no way that I would ever use cpvc for piping in a trailer.

Just do it.

Dan
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:46 PM   #11
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I use PEX everytime I add or replace plumbing. No leaks and easier to work with. If you plan ahead, you can save a lot of money ordering PEX parts online. (50% of HomeDepot price). Keep in mind there are two types of crimp rings: the standard copper ones that need a bigger tool and a stainless steel PEX clamps. The clamps are easier to crimp in tight spaces but they cost more than the crimp rings. However, the tool for the clamps is cheaper than the tool for the crimps rings. I've used the clamps on all my PEX work.
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