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Old 08-04-2012, 06:00 PM   #1
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Relief valve.... not hot water heater

This is my first post. Just purchased beautiful 73 Tradewind and am in the process of refurbishing it. There is a relief valve which ties the end of the hot piping into the cold piping just after the pressure regulting valve. Trying to figure out why it is here, and what is its sequence of operation.

On interntional model, it relieves thru floor.

I'd be grateful if anyone caan help me with this.

Thank You

Smitty Smith......Marcus's pal and plumber
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:06 PM   #2
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Please post a photo, I can't quite picture what you are describing.

And welcome to the forums!
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:23 PM   #3
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There should be a relief valve after the regulator on the city water supply line. The water should exit the trailer via a pipe through the floor if the relief valve is activated by excess pressure.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:13 AM   #4
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Odd place for a relief valve (usually it's on the heater itself), but all hot water systems should have relief valves. If the water heater malfunctions and gets hot enough to boil, pressure builds up VERY fast from trapped steam, and that pressure has to go somewhere.

Given the location, are you sure it's a relief valve and not a low point drain?
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Given the location, are you sure it's a relief valve and not a low point drain?
Protaganist, sounds like you might be on to something there, probably a low point drain. Sure could use a photo.
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:49 PM   #6
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Presure relief

The PO of my Exella really had some of the plumbing messed up.
The City water and the water from the fresh tank were joined via a T to go to the pressure regulator. from there it went to the pressure relief that was plugged.

All of the lines were a mix of "PolyButyl"/PB ?, white reinforced hose, green hose, black hose.

Im going to replace most with 1/2 PEX and join to 3/8 PB to the unaccessable areas

I too am having problems with understanding the Pressure relief. Does the top of the valve blow, I would think that there are other connections that would blow before the 60# relief valve.

Another question I have is that, the regulator and the back flow valves have a "reside" on the inside. A brownish discoloration.

Is there anything to help clean out these fittings, Soak them in a solution of ???

Thanks
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:00 PM   #7
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My Argosy also had a pressure relief valve directly after the pressure valve, and it vented thru the floor. I am sure this was original. I took out the pressure valve, relief valve, and all old copper. I am not going to replace those valves, it seems unneccessary, because I always use a pressure valve at the water inlet at RV parks. This is not the hot water pressure relief valve on the hot water heater, that one is required for safety if the water heater malfuctions.
Also, by using pex, the pressure rating is 160 lbs at 73f, so 50 lbs at the RV inlet will not require an internal pressure relief valve, IMHO.
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:02 PM   #8
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If you need to clean out the valves, use CLR, it works great, I used it on my backflow valve, which is all brass.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:22 PM   #9
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Actually since there is supposed to be a check valve to keep water from going back out of the trailer it is a closed system so when the water heater heats the water it increases the pressure in the entire system not just the hot side.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:16 PM   #10
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Actually since there is supposed to be a check valve to keep water from going back out of the trailer it is a closed system so when the water heater heats the water it increases the pressure in the entire system not just the hot side.
I,m no plumber, but have owned several (nine) sob's and none of them had a pressure relief valve anywhere in the cold water system, but they all had a backflow valve, to prevent water flow out the inlet when using water pump.(closed system). The AS is the first, and I don't think it is necessary. IMHO
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger View Post
I,m no plumber, but have owned several (nine) sob's and none of them had a pressure relief valve anywhere in the cold water system, but they all had a backflow valve, to prevent water flow out the inlet when using water pump.(closed system). The AS is the first, and I don't think it is necessary. IMHO
It is one of the recommended solutions (by Atwood) with their new higher temp water heaters that come in new Airstreams. I agree though it is probably not needed with other water heaters.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:45 PM   #12
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It is one of the recommended solutions (by Atwood) with their new higher temp water heaters that come in new Airstreams. I agree though it is probably not needed with other water heaters.
Which brings up another question; if the higher temp water heaters create a problem, why dont they decrease the pressure relief valve on the WH from 150(standard) to something less as protection?? Why the need for another relief valve? Again, just asking, I'm no expert.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:22 PM   #13
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River; that makes too much sense.
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger View Post
Which brings up another question; if the higher temp water heaters create a problem, why dont they decrease the pressure relief valve on the WH from 150(standard) to something less as protection?? Why the need for another relief valve? Again, just asking, I'm no expert.
The newer Atwood water heaters have a mixing valve in the system to add cold water at a ratio of 2 hot to 1 cold, even before you get to the mixing valve at the faucet. The heater produces water hot enough to scald otherwise. It's a gimmick to say thay can get nine gallons of hot water out of a six-gallon heater. Since there is that extra mixing valve, if the water heater overheats, you can over-pressure the cold side as well.
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