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Old 08-29-2012, 11:34 PM   #15
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The newer Atwood water heaters have a mixing valve in the system to add cold water at a ratio of 2 hot to 1 cold, even before you get to the mixing valve at the faucet. The heater produces water hot enough to scald otherwise. It's a gimmick to say thay can get nine gallons of hot water out of a six-gallon heater. Since there is that extra mixing valve, if the water heater overheats, you can over-pressure the cold side as well.
I now understand; I just finished all new plumbing in my Argosy, so, as a test for pressure and leaks, I hooked the water line at my house with a 40# regulater, and placed a pressure meter on the kitchen sink faucet. The pressure was a steady 40#, but after the water heater cycled, the pressure was 60#. Now if I would not have had the 40# regulater in the waterline, the pressure would have been 60# before hot water. Hot water would have taken it up to 80#. Is this still safe? Or does the overpressure valve kick in before 80#?
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:44 PM   #16
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If you are speaking of the pressure relief valve on the water heater. There should be a tag just under the relief handle with the specs on it.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:28 AM   #17
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If you are speaking of the pressure relief valve on the water heater. There should be a tag just under the relief handle with the specs on it.
Any relief valve, not just one on the water heater, should be labeled as to the maximum pressure.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:44 PM   #18
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The one I have, which was in the Argosy next to the regulator, I am going to hook up to my compressor and see when it triggers. BTW I used air pressure to check my new pex plumbing system before applying water to it. A great idea, thanks to whomever gave me that idea. Now all I need is a new fresh water tank, then plumb the pump, and on to another project.
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