Question regarding winterizing and low point drains

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by MaineStreamer

The new Blue Beret magazine has an article on winterizing. For the antifreeze method, it says nothing about draining the antifreeze out as part of winterizing.

On page 39 of my November 2019 WBCCI Blue Beret (digital copy) the article says in section 8:

"Once done, drain the whole system and capture the antifreeze by draining it from the low points and back into the gallon jugs. Blow out the lines again to get as much of the antifreeze out as you can. Clean up all the residual antifreeze, pour some of the captured antifreeze down the drains and the rest into the gray and black holding tanks."

The next paragraph goes on to say:
"You could also just leave the antifreeze in place for the winter and purge the lines with water in the spring."

- - - -

It is your choice to leave the antifreeze in or not, however, leaving it in does not add any additional protection.

There are advantages to draining it out immediately.
1. makes for a quicker de-winterization process in the spring, and
2. the drained antifreeze can be used in the holding tanks - providing added protection the blade drain valves.

- - - -

Winterize WBCCI 2019-10.pdf

[uncle_bob]

Hi

If you do a good job with an adequate compressor, there is no need to use anti-freeze. The factory does it this way ( = they do not use anti-freeze ). The process does indeed work and people use it in sub zero (F) climates.

Anti-freeze is more than a weird taste. It's what they make Miralax out of. It can (and does) have an impact on your system. It won't kill you (or your dogs) but you still have to deal with it.

Flushing out anti-freeze in the spring can take a *long* time. We run a flush for a few days at a local campground. Even with that, it's still present in the system. The taste / smell are still very noticeable after months of using the trailer.

Blowing out the anti-freeze early ( = in the fall) simply gets the clean out process going sooner. Having big amounts of the stuff soaking into the plastic of the pipes vs not soaking in is the idea. Since there is no benefit to simply having it sit in the pipes, there is no problem with blowing it out.

Bob

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi



If you do a good job with an adequate compressor, there is no need to use anti-freeze. The factory does it this way ( = they do not use anti-freeze ). The process does indeed work and people use it in sub zero (F) climates.



Anti-freeze is more than a weird taste. It's what they make Miralax out of. It can (and does) have an impact on your system. It won't kill you (or your dogs) but you still have to deal with it.



Flushing out anti-freeze in the spring can take a *long* time. We run a flush for a few days at a local campground. Even with that, it's still present in the system. The taste / smell are still very noticeable after months of using the trailer.



Blowing out the anti-freeze early ( = in the fall) simply gets the clean out process going sooner. Having big amounts of the stuff soaking into the plastic of the pipes vs not soaking in is the idea. Since there is no benefit to simply having it sit in the pipes, there is no problem with blowing it out.



Bob

When I picked up my new trailer in December 2017 that I ordered expressly it was winterized with RV Antifrezze.
[emoji631]

[guskmg]

The best investment is at least a small pancake oil lesser compressor, I you have no AC power available use a genny or adequate inverter for power. But, use compressed air, then leave all the water pump lines, valves, drains, and sprayers (clamped ) open. In an emergency just do the latter. Nothing will probably freeze, but the better answer is air.
guskmg