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11-03-2009, 08:16 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Prewire behind Micropulse, indicator light?
The Micropulse monitor is next to the roadside stove hood in my August '05 produced 2006 25 FB SE. My Safari was produced 6 months after the first that I know of (moosetag's) and well before the great majority of this very popular style of Airstream. So things might have changed in later models. But...
There is an unknown prewire behind this panel. My panel functions are as seen; Classics have an additional function for LPG level IIRC.
There is a slot in the frame at the top of the panel. Prying there loosens a spring at the top. Then the panel slides vertically up and disengages from the frame.
In the space behind the panel, phone-type plugs and flat wires attach to the printed circuit board (colors seem to correspond to the tank - black, gray, white). And there is a loose prewire - the blue-wrapped bundle is not connected to the printed circuit board.
Does the Classic LPG monitor function use flat phone-type wires like the other monitors? Or does it use the blue bundle? Does anybody with other varieties of FB units see functions unrelated to the Micropulse installed in this area -- between the sink and stove?
The blue bundle has 4 pairs of wires, each pair loosely twisted together (8 wires overall) -
- orange & white with orange stripe
- green & white with green stripe
- blue & white with blue stripe
- brown & white with brown stripe
Anyone recognize that type of wiring and possible uses?
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11-03-2009, 08:16 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Add indicator light for pump?
I started looking at the panel because I'd really like to add a light telling us both if the pump is on or off as we load up for the road, use the bathroom while en route, etc.
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11-03-2009, 08:24 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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I believe that is part of the Solar prewire. The solar controller's remote panel is right next to the Micropulse panel in my classic. I have the factory installed solar.
Regards,
Ken
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11-03-2009, 08:32 PM
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#4
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
The blue bundle has 4 pairs of wires, each pair loosely twisted together (8 wires overall) -
- orange & white with orange stripe
- green & white with green stripe
- blue & white with blue stripe
- brown & white with brown stripe
Anyone recognize that type of wiring and possible uses?
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The wires are the same as a network cable. The connector at the end would be an RJ-45 plug which is just like a phone cable, but has 8 pins, not 4.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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11-03-2009, 08:36 PM
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#5
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Bob, that blue jacketed wire is Cat5e. It's the same stuff your computer uses to plug into your internet outlet (router, cable modem, DSL modem, etc). What it pulls to I have no idea, but just think of it as being used in VERY low voltage applications. Makes sense that it would be used for monitoring something, or maybe a control wire of some kind.
Jim
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11-03-2009, 09:19 PM
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#6
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_
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
...Anyone recognize that type of wiring and possible uses?
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hi bob
05 with MP and solar screens in galley near sink/stove...
i replaced the unit diy ~3 years back.
here is the panel face pulled...
and the rats nest stretched out some...
can u see the wires/colors that interest you?
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-03-2009, 09:24 PM
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#7
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_
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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now here is a CLOSE UP...
looks like the green/white are the LP tank wires....
with LP1 as white and LP2 as green.
and here's a painfully OUT of focus shot of their connections TO the panel face...
thinking back, i don't recall ANY loose UNaccounted for wires,
but one can see the SUNEXPLORER face just to the RIGHT in the background of these pics...
so my vote is the extras go there....
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-03-2009, 09:50 PM
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#8
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_
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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yes the classic has lpgas 1 and lpgas 2 on the faceplate...
one above and one below the BATTERY label...
from the BACK side this panel face looks this way....
with BW, FW, GW noted as RJ plugs...
and the lp 1/2 connections, as WIRES coming right out of the circuit board...
these has crimp style straight connecters size BLUE as i recall...
the darker green, yellow, purple plug in to the PUMP switch on the face plate
while the on/off wires for the panel are wired into the board as red/black.
cheers
2air'
now GO BACK 2 the stretched out wiring pic...
one can see the GREEN and WHITE circuit board wires for LP1/2...
connected via the blue CRIMP connectors to 2 wires from the wall nest...
a blue wire with RED stripe and a white wire...
ok, that's all i got.
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-03-2009, 10:23 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Thanks! Loads of quick info coming in. Sounds like the blue bundle goes to the solar panel.
My real purpose ... I wanted to explore putting in a grain-of-wheat indicator light for when the water pump is on. Perhaps due to a number of pump-on when underway while low on water incidents*, our noisy OEM Aquajet pump died. Thank FSM! Pulling the panel showed me that the water pump switch and wiring are separate. Will have to talk to some HO fans to determine how much heat they put out. Mebbe LED? Still probing...
Thread to come on the water pump replacement. Thanks to Lewster for pointers!
* can't point fingers or mods might rap my knuckles
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11-03-2009, 10:42 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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one could put the grain of wheat lights into the black plastic BEZEL/FRAME for the MP display...
with 2/3 holes drilled in the lower surface just below the pump switch.
then wire those lights into the purple/yellow/green plugs.
______________
i replaced the oem pump with the MUCH quieter/higher flow...
'extreme series, 4.0' per lews suggestion.
install was easy but you will need a LARGER prefilter/screen that is NOT in the pump box (~20$)
it is nice BUT "pump left ON" problems are potentially greater since it IS so much quieter and smooth while running...
so my solution was to TAPE 2 OFF the 2nd water pump switch in the lav area...
no more dueling water pump switches 2 confuse me!
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-03-2009, 10:48 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
Thanks! Loads of quick info coming in. Sounds like the blue bundle goes to the solar panel.
My real purpose ... I wanted to explore putting in a grain-of-wheat indicator light for when the water pump is on. Perhaps due to a number of pump-on when underway while low on water incidents*, our noisy OEM Aquajet pump died. Thank FSM! Pulling the panel showed me that the water pump switch and wiring are separate. Will have to talk to some HO fans to determine how much heat they put out. Mebbe LED? Still probing...
Thread to come on the water pump replacement. Thanks to Lewster for pointers!
* can't point fingers or mods might rap my knuckles
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Bob,
The attachment is copy of the hook up diagram for the Sunexplorer Charge controller. It is very light in the manual so I hope the scan comes Through. Any any case it says the cable between the controller (in my case under the front couch) and the display unit (in the galley next to the Micro Pulse) is a T568A or t568B Ethernet patch cable. That explains most of the wires. However the larger blue wire is a mystery. I wonder if it goes to the water pump power. You could put a volt meter on it and see if there is 12 volts present when the pump is on. I have seen some info on the Micro Pulse that mentions a water pump on light. Maybe a different model. This is what I am doing for a water pump on light. My water pump is under the floor of the wardrobe. Also in there is a Plastic heat outlet into the Hallway. I am installing a red LED indicator light in the rim of the plastic vent. It will be wired to the water pump power wire.
In my trailer this will make it visable from the galley, bathroom, and bedroom. In fact almost anywhere in the trailer. Hope this helps.
Ken
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11-03-2009, 11:04 PM
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#12
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_
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts
...I am installing a red LED indicator light in the rim of the plastic vent. It will be wired to the water pump power wire.
In my trailer this will make it visable from the galley, bathroom, and bedroom. In fact almost anywhere in the trailer. Hope this helps.
Ken
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good idea!
even i can handle a project like this, now on the winter camping list of to do'z
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-04-2009, 06:47 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
My real purpose ... I wanted to explore putting in a grain-of-wheat indicator light for when the water pump is on.
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Ok, maybe this is a silly question, but can’t you just replace the pump switch with a lighted version? All the trailers I’ve ever had have a lighted pump switch. Am I missing something?
Chris
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11-04-2009, 07:29 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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This would be good if I could find that fits in the panel. The pump switch on the panel is stand-alone and not tied into the monitor circuit board. Gotta go out and see if I can identify a switch maker.
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11-04-2009, 07:39 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
Some Place with a German Name
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 908
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Radio shack may be a good source for that style rocker switch.
Try this link too, can't determine if the switch is LED backlit or not:
http://www.mouser.com/Electromechani...switch&FS=True
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11-04-2009, 08:10 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno
Ok, maybe this is a silly question, but can’t you just replace the pump switch with a lighted version? All the trailers I’ve ever had have a lighted pump switch. Am I missing something?
Chris
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Perhaps the shorter trailers are different, but our 31 classic has two switches one in the galley and one in the bathroom, like a two way (sometimes called three way) light switch in a house. If a lighted switch or pilot light was used at either switch, it could only tell what position the switch was in, not whether or not the pump had power, and depending on how the switches are wired, might not even tell you that much.
Regards,
Ken
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11-04-2009, 08:34 AM
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#17
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More than one rivet loose
Currently Looking...
Los Alamos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,756
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My LPG monitor wires are yellow and red. The Fresh, grey and black are flat telephone wire. The orange is hot for the pump.
__________________
Michelle TAC MT-0
Sarah, Snowball
Looking for a 1962 Flying Cloud
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11-04-2009, 12:35 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
______________
i replaced the oem pump with the MUCH quieter/higher flow...
'extreme series, 4.0' per lews suggestion.
install was easy but you will need a LARGER prefilter/screen that is NOT in the pump box (~20$)
it is nice BUT "pump left ON" problems are potentially greater since it IS so much quieter and smooth while running...
so my solution was to TAPE 2 OFF the 2nd water pump switch in the lav area...
no more dueling water pump switches 2 confuse me!
cheers
2air'
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Yes, I was doing the same Extreme Series 4.0 replacement -- and had taken note of Lewster's comments a couple years back.
I will post a how-to thread shortly. As you say, I did note the recommendation to install the SHURflo model #255 strainer. I've got this 1/2" pipe diameter OEM strainer right now -
Changing it out looks to be a lot easier than I first thought. It's got a 1/2" pipe thread thumb nut on the water tank side just out of the picture. And I could eliminate an elbow in the process!
2air - you did the #255? Does it have a larger strainer surface area than the one I've already got? Model 255-323. It really looks similar in size to the OEM. Thoughts?
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11-04-2009, 01:17 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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You'd think instant replay would be allowed here at AIR...
The similarity of the twistoff section knurling, the orange O ring inside and everything else made me want to look closer. I went out with a front-surface dental mirror and the trouble light. Open wide! A photo and flipping it in Photoshop is proof - model #255-213.
The Shurflo link in my last post shows that 255-213 is the number for the OEM strainer; 255-323 is the same strainer for the aftermarket. Looks like I'm on spec. Stumble into good fortune occasionally, don't we?
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11-04-2009, 01:48 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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well bob since we've totally HIJACKED your own thread now...
just install the pump here!
based on my watered down brain recall, your link is in error.
both extreme series pumps use the 254 series strainer...
quoting the BOXed instructions...
"•Use an Extreme Series High-Flow water strainer [Model # 254-266]"
so the extreme series 4.0 that i installed does have the 254-xx strainer.
the BOWL is larger and perhaps more robust, a little more surface on the screen inside.
don't use the 255-xx with the extreme series pump.
negatory bob.
of course my wet cells may be flooded with bad juju too...
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here's the schematic for the install on the 4.0...
and the strainer is noted near the end of page 1, which is the BOTTOM of the pdf (page 2 is at the top)
http://legacy.shurflo.com/pdf/rv/911...-B_English.pdf
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with the W word season approaching, why not wait till spring for this install?
could be new wata pumps by then; at the very least you won't be wasting 5 months of warranty.
____________
i like the extreme 4.0 for 2 reasons...
1. it is virtually vibration free, only a few seconds at first flow then totally smooth/quiet, and not ANYWHERE as rattlin' at the oem pump.
2. it has NOT failed yet. (i went through 3 of the oem pumps during the 2 years of warranty)
BUT the volume/flow isn't really that great, nowhere near the 4.0 claim/spec, base on simply measuring/timing the water flow.
for the first 2-3 minutes flow is AWESOME, then it seems to dial back some.
i noticed this in the shower, so i guess it serves a purpose to remind me about usage.
________________
based on having one for ~2 years now, i might go with the 5.7 liter version if given a mulligan.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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