Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-15-2004, 07:45 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
PizzaChop's Avatar
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 747
Images: 202
Plumbing Schematic for '72 Overlander

As the proud new owner of a 27' Overlander (1972 International model), I am a bit confused regarding the overall flow of water in my unit. I have the rear bath model with 2 drain valves in the rear and 3 drain valves under the kitchen sink, next to the fresh water tank. I have finished re-plumbing most of it with copper (the previous owner had used braided plastic hose) so I have a decent idea of most of it. I'm just not sure how how the fresh water tank and shore inlet work together. Obviously there must be a check valve to prevent water from escaping through the shore inlet when using the fresh water tank.

Does anyone have a drawing or the patience to explain the flow of fresh water to me?

Also, my pressure regulator is not there. (Someone thoughtfully replaced it with some cpvc.) Would I do better to use one on the shore inlet or should I go back with the original? (It looks to be a bit tight in there.)

Thanks for all the great info on this forum!
__________________

__________________
Ron Kaes
Psalm 112
www.paparonnis.com
PizzaChop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2004, 04:06 PM   #2
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Ron.

You can get a 73 service manual from Helen Davis at 937-4928885.

Thge plumbing section is the same as a 72.

Andy
__________________

__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2004, 05:02 PM   #3
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
Sounds to me like you've already got it. yes, there is a check-valve that keeps pump-water from escaping out the city inlet. On my unit, the check-valve/pressure regulator is one unit. Who knows what's been done to yours, though, right? Well, I can't help you with the exact locations of things, because my trailer is different, but on mine, the regulator is also very hard to reach. and the check valve leaks a little. Cheap solution to both problems: an external pressure regulator, available at Wally-World, and a threaded cap that fits into the city water inlet, which allows the water pump to pressurize the system without water leaking out the city inlet. cost me 2 bucks from the local RV supply store. (also keeps critters out of the supply line).

Oh, and I believe there is also a check valve built into the water pump, which keeps the city water from filling up and overflowing your fresh water tank.
__________________
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 10:23 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
PizzaChop's Avatar
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 747
Images: 202
No confusion anymore

Gentlemen,
Thank you for your kind input. However, had I waited two days, I wouldn't have needed to ask the question now that the entire plumbing behind the toilet is EXPOSED! (Yes, I thought that I should investigate a soft spot I noticed while removing closets to make way for bunks and before I knew it, I had had everything out on the left rear of the trailer and my worst fear was confirmed.)
I guess my next question (and I haven't checked previous threads yet) is what is the most efficient way to drain and remove the water heater so that I can replace the flooring beneath the toilet and water heater.
Also, is it okay to replace only half of the bathroom floor, assuming the other half under the tub is okay?
Thanks for all the help!
__________________
Ron Kaes
Psalm 112
www.paparonnis.com
PizzaChop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 09:35 AM   #5
New Member
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Midland , Michigan
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1
We may have to remove our tub to find the leak in the rear of the trailer.. any ideas?
__________________
mamakp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,139
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
If your water heater is the original Bowen or an Atwood there is a drain plug that is accessible thru the outside hatch. It is on the lower right hand corner just behind the gas line connection.
__________________

__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Total wiring schematic joneslacey Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 3 06-07-2012 10:20 PM
Help! My '63 overlander need plumbing, hot water tank, and water supply tank! aprilr 1960 - 1964 Overlander 9 11-30-2011 09:52 AM
Catarina 1963 Airstream Overlander :: 1963 Airstream Overlander utee94 Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 09:31 AM
'67 Safari plumbing diagram 2001sport 1966 - 1968 Safari 1 07-24-2011 10:08 AM
Interior Plumbing Vent and cap the outside? robwok Roof 5 02-14-2011 01:27 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.