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Andersojd · 08-13-2015, 05:54 AM

Hello and thanks in advance. Redoing part of 71 argosy 22 (rear bath, curbside kitchen) and had a couple questions. Planning to remove the commode, shower, sink, and all bath cabinets while leaving the kitchen plumbing intact. Can I remove the exhaust stack from the bathroom or does the kitchen sink have to be Vented? Also, could someone explain PEX? Lots of campers have installed this while remodeling, have never heard of the stuff. Last question, any tips on removing the commode so as to not damage it? Shower stall? Thanks for the help and God bless.

55AS · 08-13-2015, 06:14 AM

I think every fuixture should be vented so vent stack probably needs to stay.
PEX is an excellent choice to replace copper plumbing. It is easy to cut, inexpensive and conforms to gentle bends without the need for elbows.
Toilet should unbolt from the floor and water lines should be easy to disconnect. Pics or specific model info is needed for more precise advice.

Bill M. · 08-13-2015, 06:50 AM

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and look at the PEX tubing, fittings, and crimpers. I use the stainless steel clamps and a hand racheting crimper. Have not done the whole system but just replaced some lines and the water heater. really like using the PEX. Be prepared to have to saw the bolts on the toilet. The tank and the flanges are plastic so it is better to cut the bolts than to mess something up trying to wring them off.
Do not know how to explain PEX. It slips together over the brass or plastic fittings and is held with a clamp like a crimped hose clamp or a fuel line. It is a better system than anything before it. It does require either room to make the crimp or enough preplaning and pre assembly to make the final crimps in a accesible area. It is worth it to get the cutter also since a good joint depends upon a clean, square cut. PEX is not as supject to freeze damage as copper tubing but I expect the brass fittings can still freeze and break. I know the old gray plastic ones that Airstream uses do break.

nrgtrakr · 08-13-2015, 07:34 AM

Lots of YouTubes about PEX.
I recently replumbed our 75 with PEX. Much simpler than doing copper.
Drain vents allow the water to stay in the trap so you won't get a sewer smell. No vent after the water enters the drain line, or only a vent later down stream, tends to pull the water out of the trap. In some of the newer models AS tried having only one vent and things are a little strange - shower drain acting as a vent for the kitchen sink.

arktos55343 · 08-13-2015, 08:19 AM

If you are removing the bath fixtures (as I did with my '72 Trade Wind...leaving kitchen sink and bath sink only), you might consider a product called 'ventless p-trap'. It is an in-line trap that would allow you to eliminate the roof vents....which is what I am doing. I can't tell you how well it works yet...as I am still working on the project....but it seems like a great idea to me. Other's opinions may differ.....

mandolindave · 08-13-2015, 08:52 AM

If the water inside pex piping freezes, the pex can swell, and not split. It's lighter and cheaper than copper, and not as rigid, which is a plus. It's easy to work with.

I would say that the downside of Pex is that it is harder to pitch it, so that it is drainable during winterizing

justgoclimb · 08-13-2015, 08:58 AM

Hi arktos, that's a really interesting solution. I'm currently gut renovating a 72 Overlander and have all the plumbing out - water, drains, and vents. So I'm starting from scratch and this seems like a pretty smart modern solution. I'm nearing the phase where I will need to do all the plumbing so this comes at a good time. Do you have a link to this ventless p-trap you are using? I'd love to see some pics and hear how your installation goes.

nrgtrakr · 08-13-2015, 03:41 PM

When I removed the old copper from my 75 it had so many ups and downs it was like a roller coaster. It was easy to see why the PO spent over $2,000 fixing ruptured pipes - impossible to drain. With the PEX, I was able to establish a high spot and evenly slope away from it to the winterization drains - no roller coaster.

Andersojd · 08-22-2015, 04:57 AM

Thanks for all the help going with the hepvo valve replacing the p-trap. More later, but thanks for helping a rookie!

justgoclimb · 08-22-2015, 05:39 AM

Andersodj, I am also looking into the hepvo trap. From what I hear, you still need to vent the grey tank. Do you know if you'll be doing this, and how you'll go about it? I was looking at air admittance valves to stay away from needing to vent through the roof.

nrgtrakr · 08-22-2015, 08:09 AM

The tank wants to let air out as it allows the water to occupy the space.

TG Twinkie · 08-22-2015, 11:05 PM

You also have to provide a way to let air into the tank when dumping the tank. If no vent is provided it will take a long time to empty and may not empty at all. If you create enough vacuum by not venting the tank may collapse.

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Andersojd · 08-23-2015, 01:58 AM

Don't know what an air admittance valve is. Was considering flex PVC to tie to the stack, still have the issue of exposed pipe but I think I can attach it to the wall . Seems to me this valve may not need pipe? Thanks Jim

rogerssj23 · 08-23-2019, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justgoclimb

Hi arktos, that's a really interesting solution. I'm currently gut renovating a 72 Overlander and have all the plumbing out - water, drains, and vents. So I'm starting from scratch and this seems like a pretty smart modern solution. I'm nearing the phase where I will need to do all the plumbing so this comes at a good time. Do you have a link to this ventless p-trap you are using? I'd love to see some pics and hear how your installation goes.

Hi JustGoClimb,

I recently purchased a gutted and partially renovated ‘72 Overlander and have been scouring the forum, YouTube, and Google for help with the plumbing. A lot of it was torn out when I brought the AS home and I have absolutely no idea what I’m doing. Do you have any suggestions/resources I could glean from or be interested in sharing your experience with me? I am not afraid of hard work and I already have access to that fancy Pex crimping tool. I have a brand new uninstalled Shureflo water pump and a questionable 10-gallon Atwood water heater that is installed but the previous owner never used.

Honestly, I’m just not even sure where to start. I’d love to do it all myself but I’m considering having the plumbing done by a professional simply because I have no one to walk me through the process.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Sarah