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Old 08-31-2006, 11:38 PM   #1
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1969 27' Overlander
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Plumbing Question w/ pics

Okay it is a 69 LY 27 footer. I have the new rear floor in and am getting ready to replace fresh h2o plumbing w/ pex. I took old copper out in tact but have not used the system.





Here are my questions.

Why the "Y" with male and female attachments for the city water inlet?

Why two valves on the draining system (hot and cold) could be combined for dumping.

What are the chances the bell shaped pressure reducer is still good and how do you test?

What is the valve and pipe to the left of the pressure reducer, is this a dump pipe (See question mark on picture) . What is this for and where does it go?

First time trying to add pics, we will see if it works. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-01-2006, 12:54 AM   #2
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Hi Deano, I can answer one of your questions. In the last picture, that valve that has the tube coming out of it. It is a pressure relief valve. They are still made. The company that makes them is Watts Regulator Co. It is the fifth pic down. It is a series 53 pressure relief valve. Mine was bad in my trailer, I recommend replacement.

I also suggest you replace the regulator too as long as you have the plumbing out. Mine still works, I just got lucky when I decided not to replace it.
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Old 09-01-2006, 07:41 AM   #3
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Deano-

I'll take a stab at your first question. I imagine the P.O. installed the 'Y' for use at rallies. You typically have a daisy chain water supply from one trailer to another. You're supposed to use a non-flow restriction 'Y'. That set-up would qualify and is better than than the type you can't shut off which is what they recommend you use. It could also be to have for extra water to wash off stuff, too.

There should be a small cap for the inlet attached to the bead chain hanging off the female end.
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Old 09-01-2006, 08:34 AM   #4
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Deano-

I'll take a stab at your first question. I imagine the P.O. installed the 'Y' for use at rallies. You typically have a daisy chain water supply from one trailer to another. You're supposed to use a non-flow restriction 'Y'. That set-up would qualify and is better than than the type you can't shut off which is what they recommend you use. It could also be to have for extra water to wash off stuff, too.

There should be a small cap for the inlet attached to the bead chain hanging off the female end.
I would go for the outside water, I added a y for the same reason. You might want to get rid of the galvanized screw pipe, which makes up the Tee and do it all out of copper while you have it out. Just saw the patch on the line you may want to cut the split out and sweat a new section in there.
Jim
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Old 09-01-2006, 08:55 AM   #5
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Jim-

He mentioned that above that he's replacing with PEX on the inside. It raises a question in my mind, though, do you keep the outside connection as copper? It seems to me that the PEX might not be as stout as copper for the hose connection. I'm thinking of switching to PEX if I ever need to replace the copper, too.
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:24 AM   #6
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Jim-

He mentioned that above that he's replacing with PEX on the inside. It raises a question in my mind, though, do you keep the outside connection as copper? It seems to me that the PEX might not be as stout as copper for the hose connection. I'm thinking of switching to PEX if I ever need to replace the copper, too.
I was once a plumber so I like to sweat copper. My Safari has PEX and I see no problem with it. The outside connection would have to be anchored to the trailer or the frame. If I were doing all that replacment work I would add an outside shower and a hose bibb at the rear and near the front of the unit. To anwser your question you are correct, I would go with a copper stub out for the potable water connection anchored to the frame and run the PEX from the stub.

Good Luck Jim
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Old 09-01-2006, 11:25 PM   #7
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Thanks much all! It makes perfect sense now, to have an outside faucet for washing and daisey chain, i will definately keep this design.

So the pressure relief valve is incase the pressure builds up too much down pipe from the reducer again this makes sense. I just have to figure out where this pipe was drained to.

I am not very good at it but I like to sweat copper as well, however in Colo this baby had 4-5 freeze splits and I hope pex is a little more forgiving if i don't get it winterized at first freeze.

TWO more questions for you pros or any others

1. Are there any locations where I should put back flow preventers? I was thinking right after pump (down stream) to prevent city flow into my fresh water tank but I don't recall seeing one.

2. And I read some folks attach a compressor blowout fitting where would this be best suited to go and what type is recommended?
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Old 09-02-2006, 07:02 AM   #8
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The pressure relief valve is there because of the hot water heater. when it heats up the water, it can expand. the drain pipe just goes through a hole in the floor, and drips onto the ground.

There is a backflow preventer in the pic you posted, just downstream from the pressure regulator. (between the city inlet and the regulator). It looks like it might just be a brass coupler, but it isn't. there's a one-way valve in there. (just replaced mine). There is another one in the system in my trailer, right where you described...just before the water pump. newer water pumps have a check valve built in, so its possible that someone removed yours. might be a good idea to go with one in the line as well..."belt and suspenders" kind of thing.

They make a much prettier combination inlet/outdoor spigot. Looks like your typical sillcock, only with an extra port for attaching the inlet hose.

Pex is supposedly more forgiving than copper when it comes to freezing...but it'll still get freeze damage. I think the big plus with it is the ease of installation/repair.
Blow out plugs can be had from any rv supply place for a couple of bucks...they just screw into the city inlet when you need to use it. I'd recommend putting in a water heater bypass kit, and a winterizing kit that allows you to suck antifreeze from a jug through the pump, and throughout the water lines. Blowing out won't get every little drop of water in there...particularly in the pump. the only way to get the water out of the pump is to fill it with some other liquid. The one time I did the "blow out only" method of winterizing, I had damage to the pump.

as for the outside portion of the city inlet line, They do make plastic drop-ear swivel connectors for pex systems. they certainly look rugged enough...haven't every used them, so I can't say myself, but I was checking out the "seatech" fittings that they have at lowes, and these were on the shelf with the other fittings.
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Old 09-02-2006, 05:23 PM   #9
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Hi Deano69LY--To winterize my A/S I first drain all lines in the prescribed manner, tipping front and back. Then I close all drain lines and pump in about 2-gal of RV antifreeze, letting a little run into the water heater, where there is a bypass. A little more RV antifreeze in the drains, and I've not had a line freeze in 18-years. The two PO's had numerious freeze problems, which I believe were the result of not using RV antifreeze. No matter how hard you drain, or blow your lines out with air, some small amount of water will always seems to remain, collect in the smallest space, freeze, and damage a pipe or valve.--Frank S
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