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Old 04-26-2004, 09:33 AM   #15
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R&SZinser (Roy) made a great post yesterday with pictures showing a replumb. Used Flair-IT and PEX fittings.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=10998
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:44 AM   #16
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That really helps. I thought about the braided hoses to make it easier, now I know it does.
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:17 PM   #17
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What you have is polybutylene tubing, and it is a disaster.
now. now, let's not go overboard!

Polybutelyne pipe, when used with acrylic fittings and copper compression rings did have some problems with long term chlorine exposure, such as in home plumbing on public water supplies. There was a class action lawsuit and the result made a lot of money for a lot of plumbers. But "disaster" is way overblown IMHO. Polybutelyne is a very good water system tubing for RV's.

PEX or cross linked polybutelyne is the replacement now used and often uses similar connection methods. For an RV, keeping a couple of Quest or Flair-it type connectors (and I have heard a rumor that there is another, even easier to use connector just out) makes for easy repairs in case of emergency. They will also work on copper since the tubing is measured by OD. (I haven't heard the caution about crimp type connections and fittings but that does make sense). What I like about the Flair-it type connectors is that I get a standard half inch pipe thread to work with so unions and faucet connections are standard stuff.

PEX is available in colors so you can color code your plumbing to help keep hot, cold, tank feed, supply, and bypass separated easier.
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:48 PM   #18
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No, I think I will stay with "disaster". The tubing is fine. Aluminum bands, not copper rings were used in the Airstreams. The connectors, tees, elbows, and fittings generally are frequently very brittle and will blow apart, even at reduced rv water pressures. If you remove a section of plumbing you may very well find that the fitting on one end can be broken only with heavy tools, while the one on the other end will snap in half using just the fingers on one hand.

As slow learner, four times I listened to the now familiar sound of exploding polybutylene connectors, followed by the rush of water before I took the trouble to go through the coach with PEX.

I will agree that it is a shame that the tubing itself has come to be associated with this problem. It actually seems to be very durable.

Mark
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Old 04-26-2004, 07:29 PM   #19
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Well, my plumbing supplier didn't have the correct sizes for me in the Flair it stuff or the pex, so I just went with brass compression fittings. Got most of it back together today, but I still need to fittings for the bypass valve to turn the water back on (supplier had to order).

Did I mention before that I hate doing plumbing....
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Old 04-27-2004, 12:00 PM   #20
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Mark said "As slow learner, four times I listened to the now familiar sound of exploding polybutylene connectors, followed by the rush of water before I took the trouble to go through the coach with PEX."
Mark, did you replace the pipes that run under the shower and across the coach to supply the kitchen faucets? I wish to do this, but I need to work out how to feed pipes across the coach, and through one bend to arrive at the place where the low-point drains are. Do you have any suggestions? I believe my trailer is the same layout as yours. Thanks. Nick.
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Old 05-01-2004, 10:03 PM   #21
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Nick, You can see my floorplan at http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...500/ppuser/139

There are only two pipes which run under the floor. They run from under the shower across to, I believe, under the kitchen counter. If not, just aft. As it would be necessary to drop the fresh water pan, if not the tank itself to replace them, I just left the tubing in place. The polybutylene tubing is perfectly good stuff, it is the connectors that fail. I picked up with Flair-it fittings and Pex at either end.

Replacing the plumbing around the low point drains was a pain - litterally. There is not much room there.

Good luck,

Mark
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