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Old 04-13-2011, 07:36 PM   #21
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I'm glad I apologized in advance...I'm not being clear enough. I've been told that "RV parts" manufacturers taper their threadings so that you can only buy from them...It puzzles me why the 1/2 fits, but the 3/8 and 5/8 can't because of the 'taper'? The answer I've gotten is that my trailer must be a mix of "RV parts" (the hot water heater) and "house parts" (the sink, etc).

The amount of parts my Lowes and HDepot have isn't all that impressive. The Western Nevada Supply place was (man behind the counter who 'fetches' parts for you). I can't imagine why they'd turn me away knowing I've got cash and am about to buy a boatload of parts and tools...

I'm wiling to route around the hot water heater, but not the shower...I guess I'll just buy a new fixture and go with that. Imagine that, money thrown at a problem fixes it...
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:33 PM   #22
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I think you need to look a little closer at your water heater,you may have another fitting that needs to be removed. Then it will be 1/2" tapered pipe thread, used in rv's AND houses. When they say 1/2" pipe thread,they are talking about the inside diameter,this goes back to when they used iron pipe that was cut and threaded on the job. It is much larger than 1/2" on the outside,and they are tapered. So far the
"experts" at the stores, don't know ther stuff. Pex is eazy,just buy some fittings and try them for fit,big box stores are good about returns. Good luck
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:34 PM   #23
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Hi onemanclan,

I am not a plumber, but have done a lot, perhaps I can offer some small encouragement and I'm sure others will here too.
Maybe we can start with some basics. Generally there are two types of fittings, male and female. Male fittings screwing into the female (I am not trying to be funny here, that's just why they are called that). Perhaps you are measuring the outside of the pipe thread. The inside pipe size is how they are measured (I think I'm right here). To save trips I will sometimes take the fitting that I disconected with me to the store to be sure I have the right size adapter, if not available with one fitting it sometimes takes two. Also, there are flared fittings and pipe fittings. When putting back pipe fittings to adapt to Pex, don't forget to use teflon tape and or pipe dope, my brother, a real plumber taught me to use both especially on larger pipes, a very cheap investment to prevent leaks and rework. A flarred fitting does not need either, but if they don't look right, pitted, maybe not quite square, I'll sometimes use dope (teflon paste) on these as well, doesn't hurt. Gas lines are something else, I'm talking water only here.
There are some odd fittings out there, but don't give up. It can be done.
I look at it this way: a few extra fittings and trips are still a lot cheaper than an RV shop. Over the years I've collected more fittings, some rare, than most plumbing stores have on hand.
Good luck.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:49 PM   #24
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Help is on the way

OK: Let's start with the 3/8 copper for the shower. Go to you local hardware store or big box. Tell them you want an adaptor to go from 3/8" copper tubing to 1/2" NPT. I would use a 3/8" brass compression fitting that uses a ferrell instead of flaring the tubing. You just cut the copper tubing off (using a tubing cutter) slide the nut on the tubing along with the farrel, put the 3/8 adaptor over the end of the tubing and tighten the nut. PEX fittings are readily available that have 1/2" NPT threads.
I don't know who told you that RV's use special fittings that are tapered. They really don't know what they are talking about. All plumbing and gas fittings that screw together are tapered threads. While conduit fittings for electrical ridgid piping is not tapered.
PEX fittings; no matter what brand are readily available with 1/2" pipe threads, both male and female. If you look at my blog pictures you will see standard braided stainless steel flex hoses hanging from the end of the PEX tubing, the flex hoses connect directly to the sink faucet (1/2" pipe thread) and to the PEX tubing with a PEX to 1/2" NPT adaptor. If you are keeping the old sink faucets with the copper lines you can use the 3/8" copper to NPT adaptor mentioned above. Personally I would get rid of as much copper as you can. You can get the flex hoses with 1/2" NPT fitting on one end and 3/8" tubing fitting on the other, it will screw right on where the old copper came off.
I didn't post a photo of the water heater install, but I used the same stainless flex hoses to connect the water heater to the PEX. The water heater has 1/2" NPT female threads. All you need is a 1/2" pipe nipple (brass) about 1 1/2" to 2" in length, screw the nipple into the inlet and outlet holes, attach the flex lines to the nipples you placed into the water heater, connect the other end of the flex lines to the PEX tubing using a PEX to 1/2" NPT adaptor. The flex hose are available with fittings for other sizes as well, the flex hoses I used had 1/2" female NPT fittings on both ends which will screw right onto the PEX to 1/2" NPT adaptor fittings.
If I might ask:Why do you think your water heater has 5/8" fittings? Are you looking at some kind of adaptor (which probably has flats on it for a wrench) that was used to fit the old copper lines, this fitting is probably brass. If so, you need to remove those old fittings, which will leave you with a hole in the water heater tank that has 1/2" NPT female threads.
When you assemble the metal to metal fittings, you need to use pipe dope or teflon tape. It is not necessary to use the pipe dope or teflon tape when you are connecting to the PEX fittings, unless the PEX fitting is metal as well.
Hope this helps.
By the way, I used "Flair It" brand fittings for all of the PEX tubing. No special tools needed. Bought everything I needed on the Internet, got the PEX tubing at Menards.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:28 PM   #25
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Ok...Thanks everyone, especially TG Twinkle!

My solutions (but please read on because I have a couple of more issues):

!) I think there was a combination of not communicating clearly and people (including myself) not knowing what the "F" they were talking about. For instance, I took in the fittings I removed (that were copper) only to get the right measurements for the new fittings. They all thought I was trying to replicate the fittings in PEX (I think).
2) Twinkle was right in that I needed to remove even more fittings on the hot water heater in order to leave just 'holes'. They were half inch and fit perfectly.
3) The shower WAS 3/8 (and turns out the toilet was too). I found a brass fitting along with male threads on both ends to tie it all together.
4) The braided lines that are used for sink/toilets were a life saver. Not only do they look cool, but you don't have to place the PEX with tons of accuracy.
My remaining issues:
A) How do you transition from the pump to the PEX? RV store for the parts?
B) How do you tie in a pressure reducer (for the city water hook up) to the PEX?
C) Where oh where does the sprayer for the toilet hook up to? Is is behind the toilet near the water intake? In the front near the pedals?
D) The 1 1/4 inch intake hose needs to be replaced. RV store for the parts?

Thanks so much for the help. I'm super stoked I'm almost done, but nervous about 'firing it up'. I almost got the red and blue pipe, but ended up covering all of the pipe with insulation...
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by onemanclan View Post
My remaining issues:
A) How do you transition from the pump to the PEX? RV store for the parts?
Most pumps have 1/2" male pipe thread, you can either use a 1/2" female pipe thread connector to PEX, or you can use a braided stainless 1/2" pipe thread on both ends vinyl hose to conect to the PEX. The latter would be better, it would isolate the pump and minimize noise and vibration. You can get one of those adapters almost anywhere, i've even seen them at WalMart.
Quote:
B) How do you tie in a pressure reducer (for the city water hook up) to the PEX?
You really don't have to have one, but the easiest way is to get one that will go on the city water spigot at the campground, and connect the fresh water hose to it.
Quote:
C) Where oh where does the sprayer for the toilet hook up to? Is is behind the toilet near the water intake? In the front near the pedals?
It depends on the toilet, but usually it goes on a nipple on the flush valve on the back of the toilet, near where the water line comes in.
Quote:
D) The 1 1/4 inch intake hose needs to be replaced. RV store for the parts?
Any hardware store, even a swimming pool supply store, will have this. Take a sample with you.[/QUOTE]
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:16 PM   #27
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A) How do you transition from the pump to the PEX? RV store for the parts? If your pump has hose barb fittings just connect a short piece of hose to the pump, on the other end of the hose, just reverse the process; get a barb connector that fits the hose and will screw into a 1/2" PEX female NPT fitting. It's another adaptor so to speak.
B) How do you tie in a pressure reducer (for the city water hook up) to the PEX? Here is one that attaches to the faucet at the camp ground. Or you can attach it to the water input on the trailer; that way you don't drive off and leave it. They are available at Gemplers. It's called a "Pressure Regulator". This one is set at 40 PSI which is plenty for you setup.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:17 PM   #28
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This is one of the finest example of good people on this forum coming together and helping another streamer out hats off people this is why I love this site so much good job.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:17 PM   #29
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My trailer has a rubber hose with a spring inside exiting the pump. That hose is clamped to a rigid connection. My copper was frozen and is expanded. I'll use PVC fibre braided reinforced hose clamped to the copper for the transition.



I'm only reusing the city water entry hardware and a short piece of the original copper. I'll reuse the shower and vanity faucets. I'm not sure how I'll make the transition to pex there. I'm not worried about finding a good way.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:42 PM   #30
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It can be done, and you will do much better if you don't listen to the 'help' at L/HD.
If your doing a complete redo... look on ebay or plumbing supply over the web for much better prices.
Many more items available that are not in the stores.
I found some great 1/4 turn valves that fit in tight spots...and in bulk prices, so I put them everywhere.
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
A) How do you transition from the pump to the PEX? RV store for the parts? If your pump has hose barb fittings just connect a short piece of hose to the pump, on the other end of the hose, just reverse the process; get a barb connector that fits the hose and will screw into a 1/2" PEX female NPT fitting. It's another adaptor so to speak.
B) How do you tie in a pressure reducer (for the city water hook up) to the PEX? Here is one that attaches to the faucet at the camp ground. Or you can attach it to the water input on the trailer; that way you don't drive off and leave it. They are available at Gemplers. It's called a "Pressure Regulator". This one is set at 40 PSI which is plenty for you setup.
A) I cannot find that part.

B) I have the pressure regulator. It has a hose bib on one side (which I expect) and a 3/4" male thread on the other side. It DOES NOT screw on to a PEX 3/4" adapter...Hence my problem...
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock View Post
My trailer has a rubber hose with a spring inside exiting the pump. That hose is clamped to a rigid connection. My copper was frozen and is expanded. I'll use PVC fibre braided reinforced hose clamped to the copper for the transition.



I'm only reusing the city water entry hardware and a short piece of the original copper. I'll reuse the shower and vanity faucets. I'm not sure how I'll make the transition to pex there. I'm not worried about finding a good way.
ALL of the copper is gone from my trailer...
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:20 AM   #33
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Okay. Use this: Amazon.com: Danco 59857 9-Inch Toilet Connector, Stainless: Home Improvement
To hook to the pump.
Use this:PEX Plumbing and PEX Pipe - Seatech Quick Connect Fittings - MALE CONNC 1/2X 1/2MPT WATER PEX - mobilemart.com
To go from the above hose to the PEX line.
Use this:Shop GatorBITE 1/2" x 3/4" Female NPT Adapter at Lowes.com
To connect your pressure regulator to the PEX in the rest of the trailer.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:18 AM   #34
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No pex

B) I have the pressure regulator. It has a hose bib on one side (which I expect) and a 3/4" male thread on the other side. It DOES NOT screw on to a PEX 3/4" adapter...Hence my problem...

The regulator I posted has a hose bib connection on each side; one female and one male. You connect it either to the faucet at the campground then to your hose; OR you connect it to the water inlet on the side of your trailer, connect the hose to the regulator then to the faucet. No PEX is involved. Also posted a photo of the hose adaptor. You can probably get one in plastic or brass, this one is bronze. But this will show you what it looks like.



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Old 04-16-2011, 07:58 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
Okay. Use this: Amazon.com: Danco 59857 9-Inch Toilet Connector, Stainless: Home Improvement
To hook to the pump.
Use this:PEX Plumbing and PEX Pipe - Seatech Quick Connect Fittings - MALE CONNC 1/2X 1/2MPT WATER PEX - mobilemart.com
To go from the above hose to the PEX line.
Use this:Shop GatorBITE 1/2" x 3/4" Female NPT Adapter at Lowes.com
To connect your pressure regulator to the PEX in the rest of the trailer.
The pump has barbs on it (male) and the toilet connector won't hook up to it....

The 3/4" female NPT adapter you mention I MENTIONED in a subsequent post and it doesn't fit.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:21 AM   #36
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Pics on the way

I'll be in my trailer later today, I'll take some pics to show you what I did.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:39 AM   #37
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WHAT I FOUND in our 77 Overlander was the same thing you have encountered. NOTHING FITS NOTHING. Then I discovered that what was used to plumb the trailer with originally was SOFT COPPER. It comes in a roll and is easily rolled out when there is nothing in the tailer. Being soft is easy to work with at the factory. BUT SOFT COPPER has a different OD(outside diameter) than Ridge copper and the PEX fitting are for Ridged copper. You will find if you clean up(no burrs) a peice soft copper and a peice of ridged that the ridged will slide right onto the soft. I made(sweat) a couple of peices to make adapters so I could get the original(soft copper) to ridged copper size and then went on with the pex from there. HOPE this helps.
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:12 PM   #38
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I redid my 66 Overlander in 1/2" PEX from pexuniverse.com; just finsihed a week or so ago. A bought few straight sticks from Lowe's too.
I bought the crimper and all that from PUniv. I have very little confidence in myself doing plumbing but ended up with a great install... no leaks.
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Old 04-16-2011, 04:32 PM   #39
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Fittings for the SOFT copper tubing mentioned above are readily available. They come in three types; compression (farrell) type; single flare type and double flare type. Double flare is most commonly used on brake lines (made of Steel) and on newer propane systems (copper). Copper tubing is sized by OD (outside diameter). Ridged pipe is sized by ID (inside diameter).
If your trailer has had a freeze with water in the pipes, many times the copper tubing has expanded and lost it's original dimension.
The only place I had to adapt 1/2" PEX to copper tubing (3/8") was to the tub/shower. I just didn't want to tear out the tub wall to get to the back of the faucet.
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:17 PM   #40
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Ours has a rear bath and maybe thats fortunate but not really easy to repair. I converted all the soft copper on the lav and shower to 1/2 instead of 3/8. Then that made it easier to connect to the main water lines(H&C) Mine had been kinked and plugged with heater hose and bolts,if you can imagine. I took the valves out of the tub/shower and vanity and replumbed them to the correct sizes. IT was a job but I am proud of the way it came out.
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