Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-15-2011, 09:17 PM   #29
Rivet Master
 
Splitrock's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls , South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,398
Blog Entries: 20
My trailer has a rubber hose with a spring inside exiting the pump. That hose is clamped to a rigid connection. My copper was frozen and is expanded. I'll use PVC fibre braided reinforced hose clamped to the copper for the transition.



I'm only reusing the city water entry hardware and a short piece of the original copper. I'll reuse the shower and vanity faucets. I'm not sure how I'll make the transition to pex there. I'm not worried about finding a good way.
__________________

__________________
Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
Splitrock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 09:42 PM   #30
Liberator
 
klattu's Avatar
 
1972 Argosy 24
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Heart of Dixie , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,646
Images: 834
It can be done, and you will do much better if you don't listen to the 'help' at L/HD.
If your doing a complete redo... look on ebay or plumbing supply over the web for much better prices.
Many more items available that are not in the stores.
I found some great 1/4 turn valves that fit in tight spots...and in bulk prices, so I put them everywhere.
__________________

__________________
Your opinion is valued, please not your opinion of someones else's opinion.
Click To See Me Wet
1989 Airstream 345 Liberator...
1972 Argosy 24'...
1954 Feathercraft Vagabond
klattu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 11:12 PM   #31
2 Rivet Member
 
onemanclan's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
A) How do you transition from the pump to the PEX? RV store for the parts? If your pump has hose barb fittings just connect a short piece of hose to the pump, on the other end of the hose, just reverse the process; get a barb connector that fits the hose and will screw into a 1/2" PEX female NPT fitting. It's another adaptor so to speak.
B) How do you tie in a pressure reducer (for the city water hook up) to the PEX? Here is one that attaches to the faucet at the camp ground. Or you can attach it to the water input on the trailer; that way you don't drive off and leave it. They are available at Gemplers. It's called a "Pressure Regulator". This one is set at 40 PSI which is plenty for you setup.
A) I cannot find that part.

B) I have the pressure regulator. It has a hose bib on one side (which I expect) and a 3/4" male thread on the other side. It DOES NOT screw on to a PEX 3/4" adapter...Hence my problem...
__________________
onemanclan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 11:14 PM   #32
2 Rivet Member
 
onemanclan's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock View Post
My trailer has a rubber hose with a spring inside exiting the pump. That hose is clamped to a rigid connection. My copper was frozen and is expanded. I'll use PVC fibre braided reinforced hose clamped to the copper for the transition.



I'm only reusing the city water entry hardware and a short piece of the original copper. I'll reuse the shower and vanity faucets. I'm not sure how I'll make the transition to pex there. I'm not worried about finding a good way.
ALL of the copper is gone from my trailer...
__________________
onemanclan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 07:20 AM   #33
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
Okay. Use this: Amazon.com: Danco 59857 9-Inch Toilet Connector, Stainless: Home Improvement
To hook to the pump.
Use this:PEX Plumbing and PEX Pipe - Seatech Quick Connect Fittings - MALE CONNC 1/2X 1/2MPT WATER PEX - mobilemart.com
To go from the above hose to the PEX line.
Use this:Shop GatorBITE 1/2" x 3/4" Female NPT Adapter at Lowes.com
To connect your pressure regulator to the PEX in the rest of the trailer.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 08:18 AM   #34
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
No pex

B) I have the pressure regulator. It has a hose bib on one side (which I expect) and a 3/4" male thread on the other side. It DOES NOT screw on to a PEX 3/4" adapter...Hence my problem...

The regulator I posted has a hose bib connection on each side; one female and one male. You connect it either to the faucet at the campground then to your hose; OR you connect it to the water inlet on the side of your trailer, connect the hose to the regulator then to the faucet. No PEX is involved. Also posted a photo of the hose adaptor. You can probably get one in plastic or brass, this one is bronze. But this will show you what it looks like.



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	GROPTH500-lrg.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	29.1 KB
ID:	127097  
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 08:58 AM   #35
2 Rivet Member
 
onemanclan's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
Okay. Use this: Amazon.com: Danco 59857 9-Inch Toilet Connector, Stainless: Home Improvement
To hook to the pump.
Use this:PEX Plumbing and PEX Pipe - Seatech Quick Connect Fittings - MALE CONNC 1/2X 1/2MPT WATER PEX - mobilemart.com
To go from the above hose to the PEX line.
Use this:Shop GatorBITE 1/2" x 3/4" Female NPT Adapter at Lowes.com
To connect your pressure regulator to the PEX in the rest of the trailer.
The pump has barbs on it (male) and the toilet connector won't hook up to it....

The 3/4" female NPT adapter you mention I MENTIONED in a subsequent post and it doesn't fit.
__________________
onemanclan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 09:21 AM   #36
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Pics on the way

I'll be in my trailer later today, I'll take some pics to show you what I did.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 09:39 AM   #37
Rivet Master
 
Mikethefixit's Avatar
 
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood , Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
Send a message via Yahoo to Mikethefixit
ONEMANCLAN
WHAT I FOUND in our 77 Overlander was the same thing you have encountered. NOTHING FITS NOTHING. Then I discovered that what was used to plumb the trailer with originally was SOFT COPPER. It comes in a roll and is easily rolled out when there is nothing in the tailer. Being soft is easy to work with at the factory. BUT SOFT COPPER has a different OD(outside diameter) than Ridge copper and the PEX fitting are for Ridged copper. You will find if you clean up(no burrs) a peice soft copper and a peice of ridged that the ridged will slide right onto the soft. I made(sweat) a couple of peices to make adapters so I could get the original(soft copper) to ridged copper size and then went on with the pex from there. HOPE this helps.
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
Mikethefixit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 02:12 PM   #38
Rivet Master
 
ALANSD's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,463
I redid my 66 Overlander in 1/2" PEX from pexuniverse.com; just finsihed a week or so ago. A bought few straight sticks from Lowe's too.
I bought the crimper and all that from PUniv. I have very little confidence in myself doing plumbing but ended up with a great install... no leaks.
__________________
1966 Overlander
AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
RESTORING AN AIRSTREAM
Our AIRSTREAM and TIN CAN TOURIST Rallys
ALANSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 05:32 PM   #39
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Fittings for the SOFT copper tubing mentioned above are readily available. They come in three types; compression (farrell) type; single flare type and double flare type. Double flare is most commonly used on brake lines (made of Steel) and on newer propane systems (copper). Copper tubing is sized by OD (outside diameter). Ridged pipe is sized by ID (inside diameter).
If your trailer has had a freeze with water in the pipes, many times the copper tubing has expanded and lost it's original dimension.
The only place I had to adapt 1/2" PEX to copper tubing (3/8") was to the tub/shower. I just didn't want to tear out the tub wall to get to the back of the faucet.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 07:17 PM   #40
Rivet Master
 
Mikethefixit's Avatar
 
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood , Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
Send a message via Yahoo to Mikethefixit
TG
Ours has a rear bath and maybe thats fortunate but not really easy to repair. I converted all the soft copper on the lav and shower to 1/2 instead of 3/8. Then that made it easier to connect to the main water lines(H&C) Mine had been kinked and plugged with heater hose and bolts,if you can imagine. I took the valves out of the tub/shower and vanity and replumbed them to the correct sizes. IT was a job but I am proud of the way it came out.
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
Mikethefixit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 09:50 PM   #41
2 Rivet Member
 
onemanclan's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 65
I'm somewhat done. I need a buddy's help to put the tank back in and hook it up. I put a water line before the pump into a bucket to check for leaks. Found a couple in the bathroom where it is SUPER hard to use the crimping tool. Took me a couple of hours to fix them. I still have a few problems. The kitchen sink leaks (not any of my work). Do I need to replace some gaskets/washers? Would it be easier to simply replace it? The hot water heater leaks like a sieve. Good thing I put a shut off valve to it. Going to replace it someday, but it isn't high on my list of priorities. The more challenging issue: The toilet flushes and flushes. Won't stop. Is this because I don't have the sprayer hooked up so it's 'overflowing' into the bowl? I simply cannot find where that sucker hooks up. It's not by the pedals. I can only feel around where the water hook up is and I sure don't feel it. By the length of the hose it can't be far...

Some of the stuff that I wish I knew before I started:

All fittings should be removed. That's ALL of them. OD and ID measurements are SUPER confusing. The industry should have picked one and stuck with it. Sharkbite is the way to go (even though I didn't buy any or use any). The crimp tool makes nice fittings (and they are smaller and 'look' better), but it is IMPOSSIBLE to use in small (not even tight) spaces. I had the foresight to build as much as possible and then install it in the small areas. Most people working in either 'big box' or 'mom and pop' stores have no idea what they are talking about. Once they hear the part(s) you need is for an RV then ALL bets are off. They immediately refer you to RV stores. Speaking of which, some parts (PEX to the pump comes to mind) have to be bought at an RV store. The city water hook up isn't as complicated as it seems at first. Nowadays they put the pressure reducer on the outside of the trailer inline with the hose. It isn't permanently installed like the HUGE stock thing I pulled out. This project was WAY more expensive than I thought it would be. The first trip for parts (about $200 don't forget I bought the 'tool') was about what I was expecting. Admittedly I bought a new pump right at the end, but I paid about $450 total for parts (plus $490 for the fresh water tank). The amount of time was staggering. Small things waste 20-30 minutes.

I still have the issues that I mentioned, but I imagine as time goes by I'll get more mileage out of the story and forget about the grief. Thanks to everyone for the help (one of you I'll see in two weeks at our local rally!)...Please give me any advice you might have on my remaining issues!
__________________

__________________
onemanclan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Opinions requested: '60 Tradewind saranesler Trailer Values 7 09-11-2013 09:47 AM
Replacement LED fixture under front cap Pat Conway Lights - Interior & Exterior 2 04-12-2011 02:22 PM
Check Valve Replacement 73 Tradewind constructor Fresh Water Systems 1 03-20-2011 02:02 PM
Pex for fresh tank outlet DanielB Fresh Water Systems 12 01-23-2011 05:10 PM
uh, oops. original Tradewind dinette design? SpaceEgg 1959-69 Tradewind 4 01-21-2011 09:54 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.