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Old 03-05-2013, 07:06 AM   #1
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1966 26' Overlander
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Pex pipe vs pvc, gaskets

A couple of questions, (re: 1966 overlander) 1) the plumbing lines are pex (sp?) pipe, can I replace them with pvc line; 2)do I need to get special gasket material for the windows, or will window and door gasket from Lowe's work? Thanks in advance. Linda
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:19 AM   #2
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The plumbing is probably a gray buytl tubing? If it is pex it is not original. I love PEX. Compatiable with the tubing that is there. Much easier to work with than PVC. Much tougher, particularly in terms of freezing. The crimper is $40 but after that the crimps and the fittings and the tubing are pretty cheap.
Insland RV lists some gasket material for the window that is supposed to be very good. I am going to order that for my windows.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:50 AM   #3
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If the plumbing is pex or poly-butyl it has been replaced once already as copper was used in the early years.
My trailer was redone with CPVC by a previous owner and I have stayed with it, however if I was re doing one I would do it with Pex.
I would check vintage trailer supply as a source for the window gasket material also.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimishouse View Post
A couple of questions, (re: 1966 overlander) 1) the plumbing lines are pex (sp?) pipe, can I replace them with pvc line; 2)do I need to get special gasket material for the windows, or will window and door gasket from Lowe's work? Thanks in advance. Linda
In my opinion, you would be making a huge mistake NOT using pex.

Google pex and you will see various YouTube videos which will show you it's versatility.

As far as connections are concerned, the crimped connections are used by the factory nowdays, but those who have worked with pex generally favor connection devices like SharkBite; they are easy to install and easier to remove in case of a miscut piece, etc.

Good luck!
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:46 PM   #5
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Avoid PB pipe at all costs. I had it in my house in CA. Over time there is a chemical reaction between the crimp rings and the PB pipe that causes the pipe to eventually fail. Huge class action suit allowing owners with pipe failure to repipe. PEX is the ONLY way to go. Lightweight, has a bit of give if subjected to freezing. Granted the crimp tool is expensive and awkward...but I've plumbed a lot of stuff in my home with PEX -- home theater, pool house, etc. If the copper in my house ever fails, I'd go with PEX in a heartbeat.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:05 PM   #6
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Interesting- several people I know have nothing good to say about pex pipe. Maybe they are not familiar with it. Do the crimps take a lot of hand strength to make? The shark bite connections are about twice as much as the crimp ones, but I will have to use whichever method requires less hand strength. (Also why I'm undecided about removing the belly pan- whole lotta rivets to replace!) Thanks to all who responded.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:57 PM   #7
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Pex is a good alternative to copper, which has become prohibitively expensive. The expense consideration with using pex typically comes in connector and tooling selection.

Connectors come in three basic types:

Quick connect fittings such as the Sharkbite fittings. They work very well, but they are expensive.

Crimp rings are a less expensive alternative. They require a special crimper for proper installation.

Pex clamps or quick cinch ring. Not too expensive but they also require a special tool for proper installation.

I use the quick connect (Sharkbite) fittings for pex to copper, or pex to pvc, etc. Otherwise I use the crimp rings for pex to pex connections. The tooling was an upfront expense I was willing to absorb.
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