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Old 10-16-2012, 10:15 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
That second item is a ball valve, not a compression valve.

You want a ball valve. Compression valves are found on all your faucet lines in your house, but they restrict the flow compared to a ball valve.

Zep

Just curious....what is it about a compression valve that restricts flow compared to a ball valve?
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:16 AM   #44
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have you ever tried to look through an open compression valve? you will know the answer immediately.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:13 AM   #45
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Darn, if I don't discover better ways to do things every time I do them.
(disregard the following if you use two-handled faucets--they generally have a 1/2" MIP (male) connection, so you just use a simple 1/2" swivel female PEX fitting, which is the white part of the connection in the top photo below)

It doesn't look to me like compression stop valves are commonly available for PEX (compression meaning the way the valve closes, not the way it is attached to the pipes). This is a good thing. Never-the-less, using a stop valve instead of a 1/2" swivel female will reduce your connections, per photos below. If you use a swivel and you are using single lever faucets, the tubing down from the faucet will terminate in a 1/4 or 3/8 female compression fitting--this will require a male/male reduction fitting for the hookup.

The stop valve will connect directly to the PEX on one side and the faucet tubing on the other. Viola! Simple. So stop valves all around looks like a very reasonable approach, despite what I said earlier. Note that the male/male adapter below can be 1/2x3/8 or 1/2x1/4. (Note: the braided pipe in the photo is not a separate connection up to the faucet, it is part of the faucet and is permanently attached to the faucet)

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Despite appearances, the stop valve on the right is a ball valve, not a compression valve. Don't confuse this with the fact that the connections on it are 1/2" PEX on one side and 1/4" compression fitting on the other.

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Old 10-18-2012, 03:38 PM   #46
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Hi Zep.
Happy that you posted this last one! Now we are happy to report that we ordered the one on the right and therefore a regular ball valve, so no worries on a flow restriction anymore.
So basically we will have something similar that what you have with the adaptors, instead of having the adaptors we will have a ball valve.
Wow you make us feel better
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:05 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeggieBullet View Post
...Wow you make us feel better
Go for it.

One last correction, the faucet side of those stop valves are 3/8".
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:00 PM   #48
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Quote:
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One last correction, the faucet side of those stop valves are 3/8".
Z
Yes Sir. that's correct!
thanks again Z
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:05 PM   #49
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Oh Z.
another question regarding the tubing it self based on looking at your installations.
how flexible is it? I really will like to avoid as many elbows as possible and according to our trailer layout I can run the line thru the basement from the front to the back(kitchen) and if I can bend them a little will be almost a straight shot to the sink.
just wondering your input on that.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:36 PM   #50
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I don't have one of the plastic bend-holders at hand, but my recollection is that they make about a 5" radius turn. They do OK if you're making a bend flat on the floor where you can put down some clips a few inches away along the tubing, but otherwise they have trouble holding a bend that small.

I think you can plan on being able to maintain something on the order of 8" radius just by putting clips on the floor or wall. 8"l is actually pretty small.

You can heat the tubing and then put it in a tool to cool and you can get small radiuses (radii?), but I don't know what the strength/life issues might be, it's still an experiment. The tool is more for keeping the tubing from collapsing/kinking than for making the radius. Once it's cool, it maintains the bend. I used the tool not only to get smaller radii bends, but to get opposite bends close to each other.

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Old 10-19-2012, 08:04 AM   #51
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These may help: Plastic Bend Supports , Wirsbo Plastic Bend Supports , PEX Plumbing , PEX Plumbing Installation - PexSupply.com

I haven't tried the heating method before. But usually the pipe will "hand bend" pretty well for small curves.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:55 PM   #52
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love the bend supports but where we will need to run the Pex and make the curve we will not have any kind of access more that running the lines thru
Found this in Lowes website:
...PEX is the most flexible plumbing pipe available. It can be bent around most corners without a coupling or fitting. For example, 3/8” pipe may be bent to a 4” radius and 1/2” pipe to a 5” radius....

and this in Siouxchief's website
Minimum Bend Radius
Do not bend tube too tightly. The minimum
recommend bend radius is six times the tube
size (i.e. ″ tube = 3″ bend radius). When
making a 90 turn, use bend supports.


Full articles can be seen here:
http://www.lowes.com/PartnerSites/Ef...f/AboutPEX.pdf
http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/...ide%205-05.pdf
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:09 AM   #53
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I've installed many thousands of feet of Pex. I still use the brass fittings and expandable Pex rings. The only problems are that the expander tool is very expensive and you have to be careful of tubing and ring temp. The crimping ring method works well if you can get the tool into position. With that system I'd also go with the brass crimping rings.The Pex with the oxygen barrier was mostly for closed in floor heating systems. It was called Heat Pex. I wouldn't use it for potable water without doing some reading. Mainly it was designed to keep oxygen from getting into the boiler.That of course would cause internal boiler rust. Never use Pex where comes into contact with any hydro carbons chemicals or even fumes. In houses that is critical around gas hot water heaters,boilers etc.It's very tough but don't expose it to sunlight for any length of time as it breaks down.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:24 AM   #54
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What I have not seen in this thread is any mention of FlairIt nylon fittings and valves.....they are super great to use for roadside docs, no special tools needed. Also I use a PVC tubing cutter, works great.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:45 AM   #55
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What I have not seen in this thread is any mention of FlairIt nylon fittings and valves.....they are super great to use for roadside docs, no special tools needed. Also I use a PVC tubing cutter, works great.
I looked into it and the is tempting, the main factor was on a personal preference of staying away from plastic on fittings and valves.
Nothing wrong with them and the price factor is very attractive on them.
Found them in many vintage trailer and in good working condition, but again for us it was a matter of personal preference.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:41 PM   #56
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ok we are doing some tool and skills testing and we are wondering how tight the clamps supposed to be?
Done a couple of fittings and it looks sharp but the fitting will still turn, not easily but it will turn a little.
Is this normal?
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