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Old 10-03-2012, 02:13 PM   #15
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Just finioshed replumbing my '71 Sovereign and recommend the stainless steel cinch clamps because (1) the tool is cheaper and (2) they are easier to use in tight spaces. Having said that, I have not learned of an "east" way to remove them from a fitting. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bill
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:14 PM   #16
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it looks exactly like my ring crimping tool.
Hi Zeppelinium!
Thanks for the input, it makes me feel better that we are not ordering all the wrong parts and that it will take me a week once we get them to notice that!!
We are also getting these fittings
1/2 Brass Elbows (25)
1/2 Brass Tees (25)
Copper Rings (100)
so based on your experience would that be enough?
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:15 PM   #17
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Guess you got it right then. From afar it looks a bit like the cinch tool too. I guess you will be going with the copper rings then.

Have had to remove cinched rings from from a fitting several times. Did not find an easy way. I cut a angled cut across the ring with a hacksaw or a dremel with a wheel. Not too hard to do. You can cut most of the way and break it with a screwdriver sometimes. I think there may be a cutting tool for that but I try to keep it down to a minimun and it is not very hard to do with the hacksaw.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:27 PM   #18
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Word of Warning

I broke one of my personal rules and borrowed a crimp tool from a friend of my fathers, he didn't tell me it need to be calibrated/adjusted periodically and I had no instructions other than him showing me how it worked on the bench. This is one of the many reasons I never borrow or loan tools.

Everysingle crimp leaked and had to be redone! and you'r not supposed to re-crimp the rings either.

Make sure you use the gauge and adjust as necessary.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M. View Post
Guess you got it right then. From afar it looks a bit like the cinch tool too. I guess you will be going with the copper rings then.

Have had to remove cinched rings from from a fitting several times. Did not find an easy way. I cut a angled cut across the ring with a hacksaw or a dremel with a wheel. Not too hard to do. You can cut most of the way and break it with a screwdriver sometimes. I think there may be a cutting tool for that but I try to keep it down to a minimun and it is not very hard to do with the hacksaw.
Hi Bill
Now we are looking for the cutter as you recommended, but the center of the tool looks like a cutter, may be not..
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AldeanFan View Post
Word of Warning

I broke one of my personal rules and borrowed a crimp tool from a friend of my fathers, he didn't tell me it need to be calibrated/adjusted periodically and I had no instructions other than him showing me how it worked on the bench. This is one of the many reasons I never borrow or loan tools.

Everysingle crimp leaked and had to be redone! and you'r not supposed to re-crimp the rings either.

Make sure you use the gauge and adjust as necessary.
thanks for the warning!
now this doesn't have any instructions, so now what...
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeggieBullet View Post
Hi Zeppelinium!
Thanks for the input, it makes me feel better that we are not ordering all the wrong parts and that it will take me a week once we get them to notice that!!
We are also getting these fittings
1/2 Brass Elbows (25)
1/2 Brass Tees (25)
Copper Rings (100)
so based on your experience would that be enough?
Plenty, maybe too many elbows. I used a lot of elbows in the first Airstream--the nice tight corners appealed to me. But I came to realize I could get adequate bends in lots of places, especially if you use the plastic radius forming clamp.

You will need 3 or so ball valves, or 10 if you valve each faucet. I always put a valve in the toilet line--partly to keep water out of it when it's cold and partly because the toilet is the highest faillure item in your plumbing, so you can isolate it and still keep using it with a jug of water. I also put a valve in the street inlet line for positive leak protection--I don't want to leak any water when I'm boondocking. You can see a photo in the last link the post below.

I also put a valve in the cold line to the water heater. Sometimes I get nervous when it's cold and dump the system, but you woudn't want to dump those six gallons--it would have to be really cold for a long time to freeze it, and never if you've got your pilot light on. This also isolates your hot water lines, so it you have a problem on that side you can still use the cold side.

I don't see any fittings for connecting your faucets. You need to get swivel/slip females (the kind with the loose threaded part--the threaded part can be plastic or brass, they are both good), I think 1/2 by 3/4. Consider getting some 90 degree swivel female fittings (see comment in post pointed at by the last link in the following post).

I have two threads on installing PEX. There's a discussion in them about how to install a washout line for the black tank, which I highly recommend. (It's a standpipe next to the toilet with a male hose fitting and a ball valve--you stick the hose in the open toilet when you want to clean things out for the winter or when you get toilet paper stuck in your dump valve)

Zep
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:50 PM   #22
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Two PEX pprojects documented here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ign-23313.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ect-55710.html

See parts illustrated here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f420...ml#post1170069

In the same thread, about two pages earlier, there is an explanation of how to convert a toilet to use the currently available valve (real simple).

Zep
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:31 PM   #23
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Hi guys.
.
Based on that financial analysis we came to the conclusion that no more patches!
>>>>>>>>>
I agree with that. That's why I did the whole thing at once. I am starting on our Tradewind and find green garden hose, black rubber hose, black hose with a red stripe, clear plastic hose , copper tubing, greenish plastic tubing and lots and lots of automotive type hose clamps. I am going with pex throughout and if I run into an on the road problem (due to unforeseen failure) I can run to a big box store, buy a replacement piece of pex and fix it. Of course you can do the same with the clamps if you carry the right tools and rings. Just a matter of preference. Cheers, bill b.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
Two PEX pprojects documented here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ign-23313.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ect-55710.html

See parts illustrated here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f420...ml#post1170069

In the same thread, about two pages earlier, there is an explanation of how to convert a toilet to use the currently available valve (real simple).

Zep
ohhh wow..
thanks Zep!
that's a lot of info, thanks for sharing!!
I may have a lot of questions from what I see so far, so get ready
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:54 PM   #25
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Hi Guys.
found some good prices for the Pex tubing, elbows, tees and rings on ebay, now the killing seems to be the valves and the Stailess Steel Braided connections.
First time doing this Pex work so just wondering if makes sense that the valves and connectors will be more expensive than the tubing and fittings?
Does anyone know a good source for them? We are looking at 14 valves and 10 SS Braided connections...
Thanks for any input
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:10 PM   #26
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VeggieBullet,
Yeah, I was surprised at how relatively inexpensive the PEX tubing is. I bought a 200' roll of 3/4" at Lowe's for about $190 to run water from my house to a permanent trailer site. I was not surprised that the valves and connectors cost what they do as they are machined and designed to seal water tight. I bought all of mine at Lowe's, mostly out of convenience. You might find them cheaper on-line but then there is always the shipping costs. Also, Lowe's makes it hassle free to return extras. Good luck!
-Bill
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:22 PM   #27
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Not sure it really makes sense to have a seperate valve for each line if cost is a problem. I just carry the crimper, rings, and some fittings. I can unhook the water line and deal with any problem fairly easily and quickly on the road. Can cut a line and put in a plug almost as easily as turning a valve. Would make a nice installation with all those valves, but not needed if cost is considered. I did not use the stainless braid connections either. I ran the PEX right to the faucets and crimped on a half inch connector. I more or less mirrored the Airstream butyl tubing plan with PEX. I found everything I used at Lowes or HD. It did take a lot of trips. I did not redo the shower so I do not know what that takes.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
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... I did not use the stainless braid connections either. I ran the PEX right to the faucets and crimped on a half inch connector. ...
Me, too.

As minimum, you need a hot and cold drain valve, toilet valve, street water inlet valve, and water heater valve. If you valve each of your faucet lines (probably overkill, since the hot water heater valve takes care of the hot side), that's 4 more. That's 9 valves.

Zep
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