Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-18-2012, 08:46 AM   #1
New Member
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Chestertown , Maryland
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
Newbie needs to get the water running.

I am a relatively new owner. Before I bought this trailer, I did run a test on the plumbing system by simply hooking up a hose and gently turning on the farthest faucet, then turning them all on. They all worked, and I was able to inspect that no water was leaking from the system.

When I got it to it's new location, I have not been able to get the faucets running, and I am perplexed. When I hook it up, I do get a gassy gurgling sound, but the water is not getting to the faucet. I know I need to get the service manual for this rig.

I should say that this trailer spent many years sitting in a riverfront campground off the Chesapeake, and there is massive frame rust visible in front of the bumper, right around the area of the water hookup. Further, I fear that the household porcelain toilet should have been removed before trailering this to the new location, (10 miles) as the weight of the toilet and the rust of the frame may have contributed to a possible sagging issue of the rear.

Anyhoo... Should there be anything more to do when hooking up to a water supply then simply hooking up the hose?

To complicate the situation, I am hoping to use the trailer full time, as a living quarters behind a colonial house undergoing renovation. hopefully moving in to the trailer before freezing weather sets in.

I have many more issues to sort. I need to figure out the right battery to install before I can test the univolt. I need new lock barrels all around. I need to source propane tanks and a regulator, and figure out the safe but cheap way to inspect and service the heater, range and stove.
__________________

__________________
SovereignMD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 08:58 AM   #2
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
Welcome to Airfoums.com!

Could the gurgling sound be water coming out under your trailer?

You have some "low-point" drains on your trailer, and they need to be closed. On my AS, they are in a cavity below the floor just to the left of the sinks. Have a look, and see if they are open.

The Owners Manual should show where they are...
__________________

__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 09:07 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Lumatic's Avatar

 
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,642
Images: 16
Blog Entries: 1
If after a few minutes you don't have water running out of the bottom of your trailer your low point drains are closed and you don't have leaks. The gurgling may be filling the hot water tank which is about 6 gallons. The low point drains are under the galley cabinet and in the back corner closet. For city water, you should not need to do anything else.

Also consider an in line water filter and a pressure regulator (although there is a bulit in pressure regulator it may not work)

Now is the time to consider changing your battery type for more reserve and changing out the Univolt for a 3 phase inverter. Univolts are infamous for damaging batteries. Some batteries work better with some chargers than others. Check the forums archives.
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
Lumatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 09:14 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Ahab's Avatar
 
2008 22' Safari
Oracle , Arizona
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
If after a few minutes you don't have water running out of the bottom of your trailer your low point drains are closed and you don't have leaks. The gurgling may be filling the hot water tank which is about 6 gallons. The low point drains are under the galley cabinet and in the back corner closet. For city water, you should not need to do anything else.

Also consider an in line water filter and a pressure regulator (although there is a bulit in pressure regulator it may not work)

Now is the time to consider changing your battery type for more reserve and changing out the Univolt for a 3 phase inverter. Univolts are infamous for damaging batteries. Some batteries work better with some chargers than others. Check the forums archives.
If he's not going to tow it I don't think he needs a inverter.
__________________
Ahab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 09:29 AM   #5
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahab View Post
If he's not going to tow it I don't think he needs a inverter.
I think he meant to say 'converter', and he's right: a new battery will last a lot longer with a new modern converter, and no more humming from the Univolt as a side benefit.

In fact, I believe that many of the new converters are capable of operating without a battery in the circuit at all.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 09:40 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
With a new converter there is no need for the battery. When I store my trailer I remove the battery. I have a PD 9245 converter. It works fine and runs all DC equipment without the battery installed.
One does need to take the appropriate steps to insure the battery cables won't short to anything when running the converter without a battery. It should be a simple matter of removing the fuse in the circuit from the converter to the battery. That is what I do.
Since you are not going to be traveling with the trailer there is no need to spend money on a battery.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 10:08 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
A W Warn's Avatar
 
2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,571
If you still are not getting water through after several minutes of being hooked up to city pressure, try removing the aerator at each faucet and at the shower head. Sometimes corrosion and scale from inside the water heater tank can be flushed out of the tank, which can completely stop water flow through the aerator screens.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package (yes, I'm towing the 34')
A W Warn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 10:38 AM   #8
Vince & Virginia
 
Towster's Avatar
 
1969 21' Globetrotter
Riverside , California
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 166
Also consider that there may be a valve open that is filling up your onboard fresh water tank as well as the water heater. Near the 12 volt pump there "may" be a series of what look like faucet knobs that can help fill or empty your tank.


Virginia
__________________

__________________
Towster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.