Visit our Popular Forums

lsbrodsky · 03-08-2014, 01:02 PM

This was my first winter at winterizing an AS, after two decades of winterizing boats. I failed.
I did not blow out the lines and I did not pump pink af through the lines. I opened all of the drains and left all of the water valves open. In getting everything ready today, I found two places with cracked plastic: the toilet water valve and the outside shower fixture. After seeing how that toilet valve is a natural low point I am going to need to blow it out in the future. The shower was simply a mistake in that I forgot to leave those valves open.
Looking for leaks I also found that the factory had not tightened the cap on the freshwater pump inlet filter. Easy to rectify.
Total cost of repair parts about $60 over the web and I am smarter now.
Larry

Aage · 03-08-2014, 01:15 PM

Well, that's not a big loss, Larry. The only thing is to make sure that there are no more leaks, especially before you take it out to travel. Test everything.

One year I did not properly drain the shower wand/handle, and a short piece of copper split lengthwise. Not a big thing to fix, but unfortunately, it was behind the bath tub, so I got to see what else was back there, and took the opportunity to remove/refresh the bath tub's caulking.

Needless to say, I'm a lot more careful now!

**GCinSC2** · 03-08-2014, 02:37 PM

Larry,

I made up a combination blow out connection and pressure test tool. It allows you to connect the air source blow out the lines then close all valves in the AS charge with say 30 PSI, close off the ball valve of the tool, note the pressure reading on the tools gage. Check several hours or the next day. Did it hold PSI? This is similar to how a new construction home plumbing system gets tested. The nice part is the air if you have a leak, doesn't make a mess.

Gary

lsbrodsky · 03-08-2014, 02:54 PM

What kind of compressor do you have as the air source?
Larry

**GCinSC2** · 03-08-2014, 02:56 PM

Larry,

Just a simple oilless utility compressor. It does have a regulator.

Gary

lsbrodsky · 03-08-2014, 03:05 PM

I got rid of compressors except for tire fill years ago. What I have has no volume. The thing about that water valve at the toilet is unless you press the pedal down while blowing air or pumping pink, you will not push water out of the low point.
Larry

**GCinSC2** · 03-08-2014, 03:06 PM

Larry,

This it the test fitting assy I made, pic included.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...air-60222.html

lsbrodsky · 03-08-2014, 04:50 PM

Good idea, blow through the city water connection!
Larry

lsbrodsky · 03-14-2014, 12:40 PM

Finally got all of the parts and fixed everything, pressure tested with city water, no leaks.
The guy at the local RV place told me that they sell a lot of toilet water valves as a result of freeze damage. Crummy design that does not allow simple draining to protect the part.
I bought some fittings to put air pressure in the city water connection with a Schrader valve for my tire compressor. I will try to see if it gives me enough volume to blow that fitting out, along with the rest of the piping. If not, it is easy enough to disconnect the discharge hose and blow it out.
ready for the camping season!
Larry

perryg114 · 03-14-2014, 02:11 PM

I think that toilet valve is made that way to sell you a $50 part for a $200 toilet. I think if you remove the hose from the valve and drain it, you might be ok with that. It being a low point is a bad thing. My was bad from freezing when I bought the trailer.

Perry

PharmGeek · 03-14-2014, 02:58 PM

this was my first year owning an RV and winterizing.....I just bought the winterizing kit (with the valve and extra-tubing)....and pumped the pink stuff through all lines etc...it took all of about 5-10 minutes....

im very risk averse so I opted for the pink stuff for peace of mind....I know folks blow out the lines, but im so very comforted with the pink stuff in all of the lines (including all 4 low point draines and outside shower and p traps, etc)...

Hope you get it all fixed back and ready to roll soon!

m.hony · 03-14-2014, 06:08 PM

Here is my winterizing failure. Does anyone know how to fix it or where to get the parts? I assume it froze. It is leaking where the pex tubing comes down at an angle.

Click image for larger version

Name: ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1394842034.971144.jpg
Views: 239
Size: 729.9 KB
ID: 207461

I assume there was still some water in the "y" and it froze and broke. Maybe next winter I will disconnect the "y".

Jim Flower · 03-14-2014, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

Here is my winterizing failure. Does anyone know how to fix it or where to get the parts? I assume it froze. It is leaking where the pex tubing comes down at an angle.Attachment 207461
I assume there was still some water in the "y" and it froze and broke. Maybe next winter I will disconnect the "y".

You will most likely find that the whole y assembly has to be replaced but it is an easy fix. The parts are available at any RV parts department and it is best if you just take it off and show them what you need. My leak showed up last April on my way south. We used water from a pop bottle for flushing until we got to a place where it was warm where I did the fix in about 10 minutes. I think they have changed the design so the new parts are not so inclined to split. Jim

m.hony · 03-14-2014, 07:14 PM

That is correct. It is actually the flush valve that is activated by the foot pedal. I will have to travel 70-80 miles north to Southaven, MS yo get the part. I will also have to have the pex crimping tool and the little bands. That is not exactly how I envisioned spending my Saturday, but I have no choice.

crisen · 03-14-2014, 08:25 PM

The replacement valve comes with a conventional hose clamp so no pex stuff is needed to replace the flush valve. The line with the OEM crimped ring is the vacuum breaker line. Instruction sheet comes with the new valve and it takes about 15 minutes to replace.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Airstream Forums mobile app

m.hony · 03-14-2014, 09:45 PM

Now if Southaven RV has the part...
I can save the day by going to the Harley shop and going to see the granddaughter.
It looks like that valve just snaps in. To remove the broken one it looks like I have to press in on 2 tabs, one at the bottom and one at the bottom.

mefly2 · 03-14-2014, 11:12 PM

Sorry to hear that it gets so cold where you are. WE expect it up here and if it is any consolation our new AS (winterized by the factory / dealer and with stickers advising such) had a frozen flush valve, too. Easy fix, however.

lsbrodsky · 03-15-2014, 04:08 AM

Yes, that is exactly the valve I was talking about. Designed to fail in a freeze unless you blow it out or pump pink through it. Easily available on the internet, even Amazon, but your local RV place might have it. Total repair time for in and out is about 15 minutes after you scope out what to do.
Larry

m.hony · 03-15-2014, 05:36 AM

I thought I had blown it out.
Next winter I will either disconnect it or run pink through it.
We have never had as long and cold a winter as this.
On the chance that I am able to procure the valve, how is the old removed.
I'm getting tired of going to the bath house to pee.
I guess I could use the commode and flush with a pot of water, but that's about as much trouble as walking to the bath house...

lsbrodsky · 03-15-2014, 05:48 AM

On the back there are one or two screws holding it in. Then the valve body has two prongs, top and bottom, that fit in slots on the toilet. You have to push one of those prongs towards the valve body with a screwdriver while pulling outward on the valve. It just pops out. To put the new one in, you just push it in place and reinstall the screws. My valve had some Teflon grease on the plunger so I greased the new one.
Larry