Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-12-2012, 04:42 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post

Since you didn't mention much, I am going to assume for the moment that you have a rear bathroom, and twin beds in the compartment ahead of it. Let us know if this is right or wrong, OK?
Yes, rear bath (if you want to call it that). It has been a storage area for the last 15 years or so

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
First question for you: when you were filling the fresh water tank, was this because you were not parked at a spot where you had "city" water? I ask since the "white water" tank is only needed to in the picture if you are "boondocking" (camping away from anything that hooks up to your trailer). If you can connect a garden hose, that's your water supply, the only tanks you will use then are the two waste tanks. So don't worry about the white tank right away. In fact, I would now empty it.
I'm glad you asked. We were talking about that when we were putting in the replacement water heater. I was inside hooking up the water lines and a friend was outside pushing and turning the heater as needed. I asked if he saw the city water hook-up and he couldn't find it I think he only looked on the road side, perhaps it is on the curbside?? I'll dig through the manual. Dad has already told me that the tank has a leak. I've researched repair options and will probably give it a shot, but looks like replacing it is on the horizon. This trailer has not moved in over 20 years. There is electricity and water about 7 feet from it. If I could locate the city water hook-up, I might not even have fool with the holding tank...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
You will find that almost all of your copper pipes are on the curbside of your trailer. If you have the layout I described above, there's a lot of it under the rear sink area and the bath tub, then it goes through the closet, under the curbside bed and up to the galley. It's not really hard to get at. Well, "hard" in the sense that it's impossible; it isn't impossible.
I was hoping that the line made a 90 degree turn from the galley to the bedroom and ran above the bed add ons. Sounds like it does run behind the bed...hopefully I can push the PEX from the rear closet past the bed. Heck, mimi did it!
__________________

__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 05:38 PM   #16
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
According to the manual the city water hook up is just forward of the rear bumper, roadside. Looks like there is a compartment with a hose in it...we'll see!

Thank you again for the manual Alumaholic.
__________________

__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 06:06 PM   #17
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by tealgraham View Post
Yes, rear bath (if you want to call it that). It has been a storage area for the last 15 years or so
It's one of the largest bathrooms that exists in Airstream World, and with two in diapers, you will appreciate the tub!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tealgraham View Post
I'm glad you asked. We were talking about that when we were putting in the replacement water heater. I was inside hooking up the water lines and a friend was outside pushing and turning the heater as needed. I asked if he saw the city water hook-up and he couldn't find it I think he only looked on the road side, perhaps it is on the curbside?? I'll dig through the manual. Dad has already told me that the tank has a leak. I've researched repair options and will probably give it a shot, but looks like replacing it is on the horizon. This trailer has not moved in over 20 years. There is electricity and water about 7 feet from it. If I could locate the city water hook-up, I might not even have fool with the holding tank...
We only camp at campgrounds, so I don't even know if our white tank leaks or not. I know the pump works, but it makes so much racket, I'm sure it would have to be off when bedtime came around!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tealgraham View Post
I was hoping that the line made a 90 degree turn from the galley to the bedroom and ran above the bed add ons. Sounds like it does run behind the bed...hopefully I can push the PEX from the rear closet past the bed. Heck, mimi did it!
On my TT (travel trailer) I just take off the curbside mattress and flip the top of the bed frame open, and voila, there are the pipes. In the closet behind that bed they hide under an easily-removable panel. I would say the toughest area to get your hands on the pipes is under the galley, and in the bathroom.

In the bathroom, you will at minimum need to remove the wall surrounding the tub. The sink connections are available from the rear access hatch, which on my '74 is a good size.

Have fun, and LOTS of photos, OK?
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 03:55 PM   #18
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
I've been ordering parts. Going with the cinch clamp b/c of price and I can do a larger range of sizes with the same tool for less $. Bought most things online at pexuniverse.com. Ordered parts this morning and got a shipping confirmation today with a tracking number, so far so good.
With gift cards to lowes to burn, I'm getting the PEX pipe and some gator bite fittings to connect to the copper pipe that I will not replace. From what I can tell, standard gator bite couplings will accept 1/2" copper in one end and 1/2" PEX in the other. I think you need to remove the plastic insert in the fitting on the copper pipe side.
I'm curious if anyone knows how my sink (the original factory sink) is connected? The diagram just shows 1/2" copper. I should have thought it through and taken pics last time I was out. If anyone knows how the copper pipe transitions to the to sink I'd be greatful. Don't know if there is some sort of hose that will accept NPT or if it is sweat connected via 1/2 coupling to 1/2" copper pipe coming from the sink??

Anyway, buying extras from Lowes to cover all these unknowns and returning what I don't use. I'm planning to use a 1/2" gator bite coupling and cut the copper pipe near the sink. I'll just connect the copper to the pex. If anyone can share their knowledge on this I'd prefer to do it right the first time.

Lots of picks when I'm out there Aage, not this weekend, but next. Hopefully some of a kitchen sink with water dancing from the spout!!

Thanks guys.
__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 04:36 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
rogerdodger's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Fresno/Clovis , California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 685
On mine, all the faucets have 1/2" male pipe threads, so I used the stainless steel braided connectors with 1/2" female each end, then connected one end to the faucet, the other I crimped on pex a male 1/2" brass fitting, and viola connection made, no leaks. This picture is under the bathroom sink, shows the sink, tub, and toilet (with valve) connections. This was after I gutted all the copper lines, including sinks and water heater.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1020571.JPG
Views:	75
Size:	98.1 KB
ID:	168657  
__________________
Roger
Air# 29488
rogerdodger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 04:56 PM   #20
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger View Post
On mine, all the faucets have 1/2" male pipe threads, so I used the stainless steel braided connectors with 1/2" female each end, then connected one end to the faucet, the other I crimped on pex a male 1/2" brass fitting, and viola connection made, no leaks. This picture is under the bathroom sink, shows the sink, tub, and toilet (with valve) connections. This was after I gutted all the copper lines, including sinks and water heater.
Roger That!! Appreciate it. Fingers crossed I have the same setup. Save me 15 bucks in gatorbite. I bought some male cinch 1/2"NPT straights for the water heater and then decided to go with elbows instead and forgot to take the straight connects out of my cart. They might find a home after all...I'm part Irish.
__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 05:09 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
rogerdodger's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Fresno/Clovis , California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 685
I was going to do it with gaterbytes also, but when I tried to make a cut on the copper under the sink, there was not enough room for my pipe cutter, and you must make cuts at right angle to pipe, or the gaters leak. It was easier in the long run to take out all old stuff, and start over. I pressure checked mine with air, 60# then water 45#, then water 60#, then fired up the water heater, pressure went to 80#. I think I may put back the overpressure valve I left out when doing mine. But first I am going to test the overpressure valve to see if it works. Good luck on your re-plumbing project. Over and out,
__________________
Roger
Air# 29488
rogerdodger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 05:39 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
Alumaholic's Avatar

 
1966 24' Tradewind
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,751
Images: 33
Here's What I Use for Tubing in Tight Places

Tubing cutter:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	tubing cutter.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	11.9 KB
ID:	168658  
__________________
Ken L
1966 Tradewind 24
2007Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax/Allison
Four Corners Unit WBCCI #8654
Alumaholic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 06:10 PM   #23
1 Rivet Member
 
Fishboy's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Tacoma , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 12
Plumbing

Kinda like the old way. Used all copper in my 63 Overlander. Wasnt really that hard, although with the price of copper it might get spendy. Be sure and recycle/sell all your old copper, will help pay for the new stuff. Good luck!
__________________
Fishboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2012, 11:38 AM   #24
New Member
 
1989 29' Excella
Punta Gorda , Florida
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
pressure
line water leak, looks like it may be from shower line. 89 Excella Anyone had this problem?
__________________
dbrich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 02:00 PM   #25
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Okay, things went pretty well. Running the pex was not too difficult. The cinch ring style fitting were pretty easy to use and no leaks after the first pass. I used the existing faucet connections under the kitchen sink and one is leaking. Picked a couple up yesterday and will change out. The kitchen faucet leaked internally. I took it apart to see if I could just replace a gasket, but I couldn't. I opted to purchase a new faucet. Easier said than done because on the single hole cutout in the sink. Home Depot had several inexpensive 2 and 3 hole cutout faucets, but the single hole offering is pricey. I settled on the glacier bay one in the pic on sale for $70 bucks. I could have saved money by cutting holes in the counter behind the sink and installing a 2 or 3 hole style, but figured this would look better and worth the expense in time / labor savings.

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2355289061.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	409.5 KB
ID:	169976



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-340632846.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	401.9 KB
ID:	169977
__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 03:13 PM   #26
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3062782363.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	418.8 KB
ID:	169991

Victory!
__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 03:38 PM   #27
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Now onto the bathroom...I wanted to leave the 1/2" copper running to the bathroom sink and tied into 3/8 copper to the shower. The 1/2" pex connector was way too big for the copper tubing. I called sharkbite and they said it would not work on soft copper (sweat connected type)? Surprised to hear that since I researched pretty hard with no mention of this. I'm tented to try a 3/8 sharkbite on the 1/2 inch copper just to see. I tried to weld the sweat fitting in the pick and couldn't get it to take, just kept beading up and falling off. Suggestions???
For grins, I turned on the water with it connected (obviously leaking at connection) to see if shower and sink work. The shower did, but sink faucet is shot. Can't even turn the knob. I'm going to get the measurements and hopefully find a replacement at Home Depot this weekend. I obviously need some parts for the shower too. I know she looks rough, but consider she hasn't had running water in 15 plus years. I'm making progress one step at a time. Below are various pics. Again, thanks for your help. I hope this helps someone in the future in my situation. Please feel free to contact me with any questions and I'll do my best to share what I've learned / learning.


Click image for larger version

Name:	image-140860384.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	544.3 KB
ID:	169992



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2227680068.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	427.6 KB
ID:	169993



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3948163324.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	443.8 KB
ID:	169995



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2847243306.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	386.3 KB
ID:	169994



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-701627650.jpg
Views:	95
Size:	614.9 KB
ID:	169996



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4182933690.jpg
Views:	78
Size:	524.0 KB
ID:	169997



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-806900936.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	387.9 KB
ID:	169998



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3801949882.jpg
Views:	83
Size:	478.5 KB
ID:	169999



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3086444990.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	377.7 KB
ID:	170000



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1091998502.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	409.0 KB
ID:	170001



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1284129765.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	523.3 KB
ID:	170003



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1031030038.jpg
Views:	81
Size:	353.4 KB
ID:	170002



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2157843020.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	450.2 KB
ID:	170004



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2011065696.jpg
Views:	80
Size:	424.0 KB
ID:	170005



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3424557123.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	409.0 KB
ID:	170007



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1258154301.jpg
Views:	83
Size:	401.7 KB
ID:	170006



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-210147504.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	400.1 KB
ID:	170008



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3932874230.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	414.5 KB
ID:	170009
__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 01:52 PM   #28
1 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
The shower valve gave me problems. I tried to pull it out and couldn't. I tried hard for a longtime. I don't think this value is supposed to be pulled out. The copper clip was there so seems like it should, but I ended up breaking it and never getting it out. So, I had to replace the shower faucet too. Triple crown at the end, new kitchen faucet, new shower faucet and new sink faucet. The shower faucet was $60 from Lowes, sink faucet was $14 from lowes.
I was able to access the back of the shower connection by taking out the bottom panel in the medicine cabinet. My initial plan was to leave this copper in place due to access, but once I was able to get to I put in pex. I now have all copper and no pex in the trailer. I took two hot showers in it this past weekend and it was awesome! I bought a new shower nozzle, but the original that came with the trailer worked much better so I'm using it. Speaks for the quality of Airstream OEM parts considering it is 34 years old and performs better than a new one.
__________________

__________________
tealgraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
sovereign


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.