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Old 09-13-2015, 08:55 PM   #1
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1970 31' Sovereign
Springfield , Missouri
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 12
How do I remove leaky sink drain pipe, bathroom sink, 1970 Sovereign

Our 1970 Sovereign has a leak in the drain pipe under the bathroom sink, from two different spots. One is about 2 inches under the sink in what feels to be a joint, but it doesn't have "teeth" to grip. The other is past the gooseneck and where it joins onto the next pipe in the drain system. We can get that one loose, but we can't turn the gooseneck pipe far, because it hits the underside of the wall. How can we get the old drain out from the sink itself, as well has that first section of pipe? Any tips would be appreciated.

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Old 09-13-2015, 09:18 PM   #2
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,169
Images: 25
My experience is more with the "galley" for leaks, either from the drain or the supply copper plumbing, but here is some basic information you could supply to get better help:
  • Is your trailer the rear bathroom or side?
  • Can you post any photos of the area where you feel the problem is?

The copper supply pipes are soldered on my trailer. The drain pipes are a larger-diameter black plastic, glued together. Both types require cutting, removal, and replacement, if they are like my '74 Sovereign.

Same type of plumbing as your home bathroom sink. Have you done any plumbing at home?

If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:27 PM   #3
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1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 379
I think you are talking about the black ABS drain pipe that is attached to the bottom of your sink and runs into a P trap then out. If that is correct, the connection at the sink is threaded, and the joints downstream of that are welded with solvent. Unless it's been modified. If the leak is after the joint at the sink itself, you'll need to cut the drain pipe and replace. Easy enough to do, but I'd first seriously explore that connection at the sink itself first.
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:34 PM   #4
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1969 23' Safari
Blenheim , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 139
I used a pair of needle nose pliers, stuck it down the drain and gave it turn. Unscrewed no problem. Tub drain was a different story. Good luck
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Old 09-14-2015, 04:01 PM   #5
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1970 23' Safari
Torrance , California
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 20
I do not have the same yr/model, but most of the drain pipe (black ABS) is basic home plumbing. IF it is glued together then you must cut it out. A small hacksaw or sawzall blade can get through it easy.

Go to the local hardware or big box store and get the required fittings (90's, 45's, whatever along with a new new P-Trap (either treaded or glue on) and a section of the proper diameter pipe.

ALSO PICK UP SOME NO-HUB COUPLERS, these have two hose-clamps wrapped around a metal sleeve. Inside the sleeve is a removable rubber seal that fits the outside diameter of the pipe. Get everything in place starting at one end or the other and glue up the joints as you go ending with a NO-HUB for the final connection.

Alternately you can do every joint with a NO-HUB, but that is not necessary and they can add up cost wise.

BTW, there is a special tool that torques the hose clamps to the proper in-pounds, it runs about $60, but you can get a way with carefully tightening them with a nut driver of the proper size. The hose clamps should be snug, not loose or so tight that the rubber is distorted. Run some water and check for leaks, tighten as necessary.

Next time you only need to remove the NO HUBS to access the area.
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