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Old 06-11-2011, 10:50 AM   #1
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1962 26' Overlander
Long Beach , California
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Help with Plumbing in Long Beach CA!

Hi all,

I am currently in the stage of my restoration where I have torn everything out and am now building it back up. I need to completely re-do my plumbing and I was hoping there was someone in the Orange County area that would be able to give me some help! I want to learn and hopefully do it myself but I definitely need some sage advice to help point me in the right direction. I would appreciate any and all help.

(562) 715-0934

All the best,

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Old 06-11-2011, 11:01 AM   #2
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1967 30' Sovereign
1999 31' Land Yacht
Bosque Farms , New Mexico
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Greetings, Jason, and welcome to the Airforums! I'm sure you'll find folks in your area who might be able to give you the tips you need!


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Old 06-11-2011, 11:37 AM   #3
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Oakley , California
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Jason, we are at the same stage of our projects. I bought 1/2 inch PEX (2 100' rolls), and Sharkbite fittings and valves (costly, but worth every penny). The Sharkbites require no tools, and can be removed easily if you ever reconfigure. I bought to ball valve's for draining also sharkbites, and 7 1/4 turn reducer valves for sinks and toilets ( reduces down to 3/8. All that is neede now are braided lines from the 1/4 turn shutoff valves to the fixtures (sinks, tub & toilet). In addition I picked up screw down holders, a couple for the radiused corners and a sharkbite removal tool. All of this cost me at HomeDepot was around $150.
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Old 06-11-2011, 01:18 PM   #4
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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Not difficult

All you really need to do is make a sketch of what is required. Which is; hot and or cold water to each of the plumbing devices.
1.You will need a cold water line from the pump and another from the city water connection. At a convenient place in your unit these two will connect together. Of course your pump will connect to the fresh water holding tank. The city and pump lines should have a valve ( perhaps a simple check valve) in order to close and prevent back flow depending on the mode you are operating in. You will also need a pressure regulator in the city water system, it can be a device like I've shown here that attaches to the hose connection and can be easily replaced if it fails. No need to tear into the plumbing system.
2. You will need to connect the main cold water line (mentioned in #1 above) to the galley sink; the bath sink and tub/shower; the water heater; and toilet.
3. The hot water is connected to the galley and bath sinks as well as the tub/shower.
4. I think the drains are a waste of time and money; they are rarely if ever at the lowest point where they will drain all of the water out of the system.
5. A built in bypass valve between the hot and cold water lines and one valve in the supply line (cold) to the water heater and one in the return line from the water heater. This makes it simple to winterize your unit.
I used 1/2" PEX tubing throughout and connected all fixtures including the water heater with the braided flex lines. You can see two of the flex lines in the photo that will connect to the bath sink.
I've attached a photo of my system along with one of the pressure regulator.
The system is complete now and has worked flawlessly since installation.
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