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Old 05-08-2011, 02:23 PM   #1
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1970 27' Overlander
Santa Rosa , California
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Help!

I put water in the fresh water holding tank. I didn't fill it all the way up and I am hooked up to electricity.

I have two valves under the stove...I'm assuming they are water valves. Which way do I turn the valves to open the water? My problem is I can't get the water to come through the faucets!!!

Do I use the water pump when hooked up to the house electricity?

Thank you!
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:30 PM   #2
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welcome to the forums

There is lots of info. here as you can tell if you have been reading. We all have to start somewhere. The onboard water pump is part of your 12v. system and the only way to pressurize the water system without being hooked to city water through a hose. Find the switch for the water pump. Most valves open turning counter clockwise. You will have to watch for water to exit the coach, as there may be many drains open to drain the water system during cold weather. If water exits outside of the coach it may be from an open drain valve, which you will have to find and close. Eyes open on the inside!!!!!! and watch for leaks...open all cupboard doors and stuff and look for water lines. If the pump comes on briefly and then quits it may mean that it is good news..no leaks and no valves open! There may be further steps required. Please post back and let us know how it goes.
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:33 PM   #3
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1970 27' Overlander
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No water coming out of faucets

Hi,

I really did try looking things up, but didn't find the answers. My battery is dead therefore I hooked up to electricty.

The pump turns on, I can see it and hear it. I've opened the faucets...nothing. What am I missing?
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:45 PM   #4
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In my antique trailer, the water pump runs off the converter when plugged into shore power, even with the battery removed. If there's water in the tank and the pump is hooked up correctly then the water starts to flow almost immediately. From past experience, if the water doesn't flow, or if the pump doesn't pressurize itself and shut off by itself after the air is out of the lines, the pump was bad. A replacement pump worked correctly right away.

With the water pump on my last motorhome, the pump ran and ran and no water. I primed the pump and it worked fine until the next storage cycle, then I'd have to prime it again. That was resolved with a new pump.

If you post pictures of your pump and water line system, posters here will be able to advise on correct valve directions if there are any valves. My trailer doesn't have any.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:14 PM   #5
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Could this be the problem?

This is looking under the sink and the cabinet to the right of my 70 Landyacht Overlander.

There are two wires not connected to anything. I'm not sure what they belong to. I know that the heater has been removed.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:19 PM   #6
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Picture was not rotated

Hi,

The white cover is where the fresh water comes into the coach. Above that cover is a hole where two wires are coming out. They appear to have been cut. They are not connected to anything. Any ideas of what these wires are for?
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:50 PM   #7
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If the pump runs, I suspect the wires are not a part of the water delivery issue. The pump picture should help. More members will post later and Monday when they are back on planet earth.
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #8
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You'll have to start at the source - the pump...

1. if the pump runs when turned on - it should shortly turn off with all the faucets turned OFF, as the pressure switch tells the pump motor the system is pressurized...

2. I'd remove the hose from the pump to the filter assembly to see if the filter is plugged - with the hose removed, briefly turn on the pump switch to see if the pump is pumping water - stick the hose in a container to catch the water...

3. if the pump is pumping water, and if the filter is not plugged, then there is a blockage downstream to each of the faucets...

4. does the toilet work when the pump is turned on - indicating that the pump is working properly? If not I think you're problem is back at the filter or the pump itself...

5. there are pump repair kits for those old pumps, but I wouldn't go that route - remember the 12 volt DC motor is old also, and you don't know how long it will continue to work efficiently - those older motors demand additional 'amps' as they wear out - get an entire new motor/pump assembly - I opted for a variable-flow type which works great - took some small connection changes, but you've got lots of room to work with in your model...

6. I had some small balls of 'gook' in the hot water lines that were pushed into the faucets, causing for a much reduced flow - but the cold still worked OK - I ended up installing newer model faucets to cure the problem...

I think your problem might be at the pump itself, in the pumping diaphragm, etc., as old age could be the problem...or your filter is clogged...

Good luck...
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:13 PM   #9
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1970 27' Overlander
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Water pump

I think I'm getting too tired. Everything I tried today was a bust!! I noticed a fuse was not in the second to the right slot. It requires a #40 fuse, but the ones at the store looked to fat to be the right one.

I can't get the outside door back on the AS as the rail of the door is straight on one side of the rail and curved on the other...I'll have to make it curved I guess.

Installed a battery we had lying around here, just bought it last year. I attached it last night and hooked up the electrical and when I woke up I ran to the trailer to see if the battery charged...nope!

I just bought this piece of - - - - you know what a month ago and my husband was ticked off, because he said we don't have the skills to fix things...but I am bound and determined to do it. I know I can with everyone's help, videos and the repair manual.

Stayed up late last night vacumming all the mouse droppings in all the cupboards yuk, stuck my hands in dark holes, fought off spiders etc.
I'm wondering if I bit of more than I can chew...

Thanks for listening. happy mother's day to me
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:35 PM   #10
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Happy, happy!

Looks like alot of work, but if you just do things one at a time and don't try to get too much done all at one time, you can do it!!
There is alot of help to be found. If you have a chance look on the Members list and see if there is anyone on who is nearby you. Airstreamers are generally a great bunch of folks and some are ready to help out usually in the blink of an eye!
Happy Mother's Day!
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:28 PM   #11
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rverferlife
Im sure if you ask here there certianlly should be some AIRFORUMS MEMEBER in your area that could come and advise you. AIRFORUMS MEMBERS are like that. GOOD LUCK
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:17 PM   #12
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1970 27' Overlander
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Good morning!

Okay, life is good again. Slept like a baby!! I love everyone's suggestions and you are right...tackling too many things at once gets me overwelmed.

I need a list of most important things to do first and then work from that. Stay close at hand...I'm sure I'll be needing you all. Thank you ALL so very much.
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:20 PM   #13
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Is this the hose I should remove?

Is this the hose I should remove?
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rverforlife View Post
Is this the hose I should remove?
That looks like the out hose. Yes, I'd try with that hose removed.
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:57 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rverforlife View Post
Hi,

I really did try looking things up, but didn't find the answers. My battery is dead therefore I hooked up to electricty.

The pump turns on, I can see it and hear it. I've opened the faucets...nothing. What am I missing?

We know the pump runs and there's water in the tank. If a winter drain valve is open and the pump is running, water should be running out under the trailer. Did you check for that?

The pump may be marked in and out at the hose connection point. I can see the out line because it's the one connected to the trailer plumbing. If not, I'd remove both hoses from the pump and run the pump. The inlet hose should be making a detectable vacuum. I cover them one at a time with my thumb and the one sucking on my thumb is the inlet. Once I identify in from out, I'd probably just extend the intake hose into a quart of water and see if it pumps.

I can test the intake line from the tank by hooking up a small pond circulating pump or other working small pump to the tank pump supply hose.

There's only three questions.
1. Is the supply hose open and connected to the storage tank?

2. Does the pump run and pump water?

3. Is the way for the water from the pump to the faucet open?

When we answer those three questions, we'll have this issue resolved.
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
https://visitsiouxfalls.com/assets/i...uxfalls-og.jpg
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:20 PM   #16
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Okay, I will try it tonight. Thanks
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