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Old 08-10-2015, 05:26 PM   #43
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In either case, adding an automotive relay to the circuit will make the switch last longer. Standard plug-in 12 volt automotive relays and sockets are available darn near anywhere. Cheap and easy to replace as well as reliable.


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Old 08-11-2015, 07:42 AM   #44
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I considered using the switch from the Micropulse controller. When I lined them both up the Micropulse switch was just ever so much larger.

The kit from SeeLevel included 4 or 5 pages of loose printed service bulletins in addition to the product manual. The bulletins mostly discussed installation procedures for optimal results. For example, the manual says to allow 1" minimum space between the stick on senders and any ferrous metal across its face. The service bulletins increase that spacing to 2". The service bulletins also recommend use of a relay if current across the pump switch is expected to exceed 7.5 amps. They say the switch can get hot if more current is applied and damage the adjacent electronic circuitry in the panel. It emphasized that this sort of damage is not covered by the warranty.

My pump says 9 amps max. Only rarely does it run really fast. It's actually sort of spastic. Runs slow, water dribbles from faucet, speeds up, water runs fine, slow down, water slows. Sometimes, usually when flushing the toilet, it runs super fast. That's probably the 9 amps. For the one or two seconds its going that fast it seems unlikely the switch could get that hot. Maybe some other use would heat it up.

To fully comply with the SeeLevel instructions, I ended up running a dedicated power line to the SeeLevel panel off a dedicated 7.5 amp fuse from the main fuse panel. I dragged a second line off the original 15 amp fuse location to the water pump. A little bit of cutting and splicing was all it took to finish wiring in the relay. I think I spent about $5 on the relay.

The SeeLevel tank level measuring system is excellent. It reads to 5% accuracy. In my opinion where they need to improve is (1) their installation instructions (consistency), and (2) the construction of the main panel to allow higher amperage through the pump switch.
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Old 08-15-2015, 01:53 PM   #45
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I mentioned earlier in the course of the Micropulse to SeeLevel project I discovered that the fresh water tank was cracked and slowly leaking. After conferring with a couple repair experts it was decided that the polypropylene tanks are not really repairable, at least not if expecting it to last. So the most sure option is replacement. The break is where the pump line enters the tank, a particularly difficult location. So I ordered a new tank from Airstream, cost about $200 delivered. Here it is in my garage. My plan to take it to a repair shop in Santa Rosa sometime next month.

The tank is a perfect rectangle. It measures about 54" x 20" x 9" on the exterior. Subtracting a little for wall thickness I calculate about 42 gallons. However the top of the pump inlet is about 1" above the bottom of the tank. This reduces the effective tank storage to about 37 gallons. Airstream claims about 39 gallons so I think this all okay and in the ballpark.

Once the replacement fresh water tank is installed I can attach the last SeeLevel sender and then the project will be complete. Hooray!!!
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:51 PM   #46
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Updating this thread to include a short discussion of the addition of a automotive relay to isolate the SeeLevel Pump switch from the high current needed to run the water pump. I used a simple automotive relay that cost about $5. Amazon has others for about $5 that also include a wiring harness. Again, the issue is due to a SeeLevel warning within the installation instructions to avoid passing more than 7.5 amps through its pump switch. My water pump, according to the printing on the motor, draws up to 9.0 amps. Newer pumps draw 10 amps or more.

The diagram below illustrates how my 2013 trailer was wired by the factory.



The schematic below shows how the automotive relay was wired in.



Because my fuse panel had four unused fuse slots, I used one of them to run a new 15 amp line from there to the relay. That line is solely used to supply electricity to the water pump.

In my case, and in hindsight, probably not necessary, I also ran a new exclusive 7.5 amp supply to the SeeLevel panel. Thinking more, I would not have done that, instead just swapped out the 15 amp fuse with a 7.5 amp fuse on that circuit. The reason behind this thought is because that circuit only served a few light bulbs and the water pump. Now that the heavy current to the water pump is supplied elsewhere, this circuit has much lowered amperage requirements, so the 7.5 amp fuse is probably plenty.









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Old 09-02-2015, 07:19 PM   #47
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For those still fighting with the Micro Pulse System get rid of it and change over to the See Level II. I updated my 2004 Classic to the See Level II, 709-DLP. Get the system from Garnet it is cheaper than Airstream and comes with all the parts. I will give Airstream credit, they did do a full refund for shipping the wrong and missing parts.

The hardest part of the job is making access areas for the black and grey water tanks. Start small and increase to the size you need. I elected to make the opening large enough to have access to both drain valves and the black water spray nozzle. The spray nozzle had not worked for awhile and local dealer said it was cost prohibitive to repair??? It now works and I have one access for everything, in the black and grey water drain system.

I used sheet metal to make a new access cover and short self drilling screws to hold it in place. I pulled new wires to the tanks using one of the old telephone wires. Worked like a champ.

To connect to the monitor use one of the Micro Pulse phone wire pairs. According to the manufacture you can use the phone wire for all connections, just make sure and maintain the same wire for ground.

Talked to the local Airstream mechanic about doing the change out and all he wanted to do was keep replacing parts of the old Micro Pulse, already been down that road. Said it was too hard and costly to change over to the See Level II system.

Once everything was opened up took about 2 hours for connections, test fitting to final connection. Again the part that took the most time cutting larger access and fabricating a new access cover.

Looking forward to having a dependable system that does not have to be repaired, re-calibrated and never worked when you really needed it too.

Hard to believe it took Airstream so many years to finally replace the troublesome Micro Pulse system. I talked to Airstream about this and the really did not care.
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:45 PM   #48
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You'll love it. Put mine in this spring. It's flawless and dead accurate (taking into account the edge curve and slope of tank bottoms)
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:55 PM   #49
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Airstream paid for Midtown RV to do the install in our 2014 25FB after 3 attempts at re calibrating the Micro Pulse.
What a difference indeed. We found out that being frugal we can actually camp almost 2 weeks without dumping.


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Old 09-03-2015, 07:28 AM   #50
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SeeLevel unit

Wanted to thank Kscherzi for the diagram on the wiring. I have mine temporarily installed now so that I can determine where to place the level indicator on my VTS retro gray water tanks. Due to them being 4" tall Garnett Industries advised to make sure the bottom of the 4 1/8" indicator is above the seam on the bottom of the tank and put a small support behind the top edge to prevent it bending. I put mine flush to the bottom and it shows 0% when it gets near empty and 96% when full. Food for thought the VTS tanks will still have about 3/4" of water when they stop draining, they need a bottom drain to empty or raise the street side up with ramps to drain. Sorry if I intruded on this thread, just wanted to share my findings. Thanks again Jim.
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:46 PM   #51
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SeeLevel Gauges

Kscherzi; Did you run your ground to your converter. Garnett recommends running the ground and hot to the battery. Have you had any problems with your tank indicators, I don't see what the difference would be on the ground or hot wires to the converter. Mine is wired to your drawing, 7.5 amp fuse and a 15 amp relay near the pump. Just wanted to ask. I am ready to close my walls up. Thanks for your help Jim
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Old 09-04-2015, 06:53 PM   #52
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I ran the sensor ground back to the Seelevel panel and tied both grounds together there to an existing ground that presumably goes to the main AS panel. In a sense everything goes back to the battery from there. From my perspective all is well. No latent issues. You will be very happy with your new setup.

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