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Old 07-27-2015, 08:07 AM   #29
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The sender's and Display Panel have 18 gauge leads. Also the effort involved in dropping the pan, cutting a hole, etc. Didn't want to risk any latent issues using the light gauge phone wires. How about an over abundance of caution?
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:16 AM   #30
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While I understand the leads are 18ga, the manual is mute on size of sender wiring required. However, the total load of the panel and sensors, while a button is pushed and display is lit is less than 200mA, per below.

"Display requires 12 volts from the RV battery,
the system will function from 11 volts to 16
volts. Current drain is less than 200mA."

I am the guinea pig, i guess, but I think you all are making this WAAAAY harder than it needs to be. I am here to testify that the system works perfectly utilizing the phone cables.
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:31 AM   #31
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Making it harder than needs to be. Wouldn't be the first time!

I tend to agree the phone lines probably would be fine. Did you install a pump relay or in line fuse? The label on my SurFlow pump says 9 amps max. The instructions said to use a 7.5 amp fuse to avoid overheating the Display Panel.
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:02 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
Making it harder than needs to be. Wouldn't be the first time!

I tend to agree the phone lines probably would be fine. Did you install a pump relay or in line fuse? The label on my SurFlow pump says 9 amps max. The instructions said to use a 7.5 amp fuse to avoid overheating the Display Panel.
No, and I cant remember the sizing, but the switch in the Micropulse is dimensionally the same and snaps into the existing hole in the SeeLevel. It is a higher amperage switch and, IIRC meets the requirements of the SeeLevel recommendation.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:34 AM   #33
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This job sounds easier now that Rich and kscherzi are comparing notes.

How do you gain access to the fresh water tank. My 25fb doesn't have much access from above.

My water tank has a rotocast outer shell. Maybe cutting a access hole near the drain valve would be best. I could then replace the drain valve and short hose.

Thanks.

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Old 07-27-2015, 11:57 AM   #34
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Access to the fresh tank was easiest of all on my trailer. For some reason Airstream included a factory cutout on the bottom of the galvanized pan. Look under your trailer, street side, directly behind the tires. The cutout cover is exactly adjacent to the little white fresh drain valve. Held on by four screws. Opened it up and I found all three telephone wires. Directly above the opening there's a perfect flat spot on the tank that's not too hard to get to, to stick on the sender.

If using the telephone wires, I'd estimate 30 minutes from opening the access, to connecting the two wires, sticking on the sender and buttoning it all back up. It would be faster if the work wasn't upside down.

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Old 07-27-2015, 01:12 PM   #35
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Kelvin, Not sure how a 25' Classic is different than my 30'er, but the closet floor lifts out. The area underneath houses the water pump, flexible ducting and wiring. After moving the ducting out of the way, and taking the time to actually disconnect some, there is a cutout in the floor about 8" square. This is where the fill hose and pump intake go down to the fresh tank. There is pretty easy access to the same flat area that Kurt talks about. It's still a bit of a challenge, but works well.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:26 PM   #36
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To get to that cut out on my 25fb Classic I have to access the area under my refrigerator. There is a shallow cabinet under the fridge barely tall enough for a bottle of 409. I can remove the panel at the back of the cabinet and see the ducting. I can't see directly down the hole but I've tried to put my arm down it up to my elbow. Can't feel the Micropulse sensor or where the water pickup line enters the tank or feel the bottom of the tank.

AS didn't use a galvanized pan like on my gray/black tank but a Rotocast shell strapped to the frame. I only have a 37gal freshwater tank. Maybe on the 27 and 30 its a 50 gal tank and they used a galvanized shell.

When the holding tanks are empty I guess they are not too heavy. Are the black tank vent and toilet connections strong enough to hold the tank's weight? Looking at the youTube video it appears the galvanized shell can be lowered and the black tank stays up against the subfloor.

Not sure what would happen if the Rotocast water tank shell was released. The flexible intact hose could be left on but I'm sure the output line to the water pump would have to be disconnected.

Nothing seems to come easy on my AS. Even changing a light bulb gets complicated.

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Old 07-27-2015, 02:33 PM   #37
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Some say the plumbing held theirs....some say it didn't (units older than yours....old glue?) I was too nervous to try it, Yup, the 30 has 54 gal fresh tank and galvanized pan...or 59, can't recall.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:46 PM   #38
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Went camping this weekend, stayed at a RV park. Good think because temps were in 90's and it was unseasonably humid. The AC ran all day. We stayed there with friends to see Buddy Guy play at Ironstone Vineyards Amphitheater.

Back on topic. The Micropulse worked fabulously. Wife and I took several showers, not the navy kind, bit longer without turning off the water. With a proven reading accuracy to within 5 percent I never worried about grey water overflow. Such a pleasure to have a tank monitoring system that actually does what it claims to do.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:05 PM   #39
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One more update. Today I installed a relay switch for the water pump per instructions by SeeLevel. Apparently the SeeLevel wall unit is rated for 7.5 amps max of current to the water pump. I checked and found the Airstream installed unit, a Shurflow pump, draws up to 9 amps. If I chose to not do anything I risk overheating the SeeLevel wall unit and voiding their warranty.

I installed a standard auto type relay that's rated for 30 amps. It's mounted on a convenient wall part about one foot from the pump. I ran a new wire direct from the power panel to the relay off a 15 amp fuse, the same fuse location that used to go the old Micropulse wall unit then onto the pump. I then ran another new wire to the SeeLevel from a unused fuse panel location through a 7.5 amp fuse, though this wire is now drawing somewhere in the range of 300 milliamps for the relay.

Bottom line, when turning on the pump from the wall panel, it uses very low current to switch a relay switch that sends up to 15 amps to the water pump from a more direct path.

Probably overkill but my conscience is clear.
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:00 PM   #40
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Interesting discussion. My 2015 Classic has a SureFlo 4048-153-V15 and the sticker says 10amp Max. Wonder if the new model has a relay. Need to do some checking.
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:33 PM   #41
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There is a discrepancy between the Manual which says the pump switch is rated at 7.5 amps and the data sheet that specifies 10 amps. It would be worth checking with Garnet to find out which is correct before installing a relay that may not be necessary.
https://www.garnetinstruments.com/wp...ec-22-2014.pdf
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:43 PM   #42
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The Garnet switch, under magnifying glass, is molded with a 7.5 amp rating on the side. The old Micropulse is molded with a 10 amp rating. Just switch them out when installing. They are exactly the same physical dimension and construction.
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