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Old 07-23-2016, 04:00 PM   #15
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I mostly drink jugs of water from home.

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Originally Posted by dannydimitt View Post
Have been drinking "trailer" water from back in the fiftys until now.
Do not recall ever having died or becoming ill from the practice.
Approximately 98 percent of our bath and dishwater
Are returned to good old mother earth from which it came without wasting resources to "treat" it. Or having to haul it somewhere to do so.
Yeah lots of people drink trailer water. I use it for cooking, and coffee.

It's just that there are lots of ways for water to get contaminated, and then sit in a tank for days on end. A few fairgrounds that I go to have signs saying NOT to drink the water.

I saw a guy rubbing the end of the water supply hose on his head while he showered himself. I've seen people wash their hands then drop the hose on the ground where horses have been. And who knows what mold or mildew is in your tank a month into the camping season.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
In response to the fresh water tank/waste tank volume ratio. If at a campground, you can let the waste water drain as you use it.
I also have the big blue external waste tank. I don't have a gray tank on mine.
Not in California! We want to do allot of dry-camping at the state parks so I have made provisions. I only have a Kitchen Sink and Toilet so I routed the sink to a gray water dump and can collect that in a jug. Next i have installed Valterra blade valves so that I can rout the sink into the black water tank with a separate dump.

We lived on a boat for almost 20 years and have a Motorhome that we spend the winters in...we did/do NOT drink from the tanks. Much healthier to either bring water from home (snow driven) or just pick up bottled water for our & the dog's drinking water.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:40 AM   #17
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I would move the tank close to the axle. You will have less variation in tongue weight when the tank is full vs empty. It would also help for ground clearance issues.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:12 PM   #18
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Thanks to all that responded

I now have a better idea of what has been done in the past and present and maybe how I should modify my plans.
I think i'll definitely move the tank back more towards the axel.
It will give me the full rectangle area within the frame members to put a tank in (which like mentioned,VTS has ones that are the exact same size length width and depth to fit in that area so that will eliminate all the possible problems of having the tank up in the spare tire irregular sized area.
THANKS AGAIN TO ALL THAT RESPONDED.
it's really nice to have this sounding board to bounce ideas off of and get the feedback that really can make a difference for years to come.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:50 PM   #19
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Bayrat hit my concern. Empty to full weight variation and that far forward will have a significant impact on tongue weight. If you move it closer to the axles you'll have better weight distribution.
Sticking down is ok, mine sticks down about 5" Ina galvanized pan, but that's between axles which means it's pretty much impossible to bottom out on.
As far as figuring ground clearance goes, Draw a line from where the wheel touches the ground to the bottom of your jack when retracted. It it's above that line it's pretty safe from grounding.
Modern rv water pumps are self priming so they will pump the air in the line to pull up the water to the suction of the pump, do being under the pump is no problem!
Consider a smaller tank for the small trailer. You can get a shallower tank from VTS and have them install connections you specify to get a custom fresh water tank. Don't feel your only option is the big FW tank they stock.
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