I could be wrong, but I think those fiberglass mesh pieces are supposed to go over the top of the vent pipe
yes i thought that too before i removed the vent caps.
mine were from the factory with the screen underneath. i really don't think it matters that much as the big dollop of vulkem is what actually seals the vent.
the real issue is taking a look at them every 5 years or so and replacing the gasket/vulkem combination. if the screen is on top, that works as well!
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
John thanks for the pictures. You ought to send them to Airstream and suggest they use them in their owners manuals.
A friend of mine who has an SOB, but is now getting the hots for an Airstream, did the same repair on his recently, but he also took the handle off of a fine strainer, inverted it and put it over the top of the vent so that there wouldn't be a flat surface for birds, bees, etc. to nest in.
I've wondered if those vents with the integrated fan really work... I think the fan is just wind powered.
Paula Ford
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Today is a gift. That's why they call it "the present"
I also found a lot of trash in each vent hood that blocked the drain holes...
Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
one small note about the drain holes, i have seen a number of 70's vintage trailers that do not have the holes. adding them would just take a couple of seconds with a drill when the cover is off.
The vents on my '76 don't appear to have drain holes. Got pictures?
The vents on my '76 don't appear to have drain holes. Got pictures?
Thanks for the excellent tutorial!
Kelvan,
You can see the drain holes in the left photo of John's #5 post. They are the little dark spots right behind the two screw heads, on the low side, in the base of the Aluminum cover. A 3/16 in drill would make the holes about the right size. Bill
You can see the drain holes in the left photo of John's #5 post. They are the little dark spots right behind the two screw heads, on the low side, in the base of the Aluminum cover. A 3/16 in drill would make the holes about the right size. Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Number 1 son is pointing out one of the two drain holes in this image:
Thanks guys. Thanks also for confirming my analysis that there should be drain holes. It was driving me nuts.
Andy with Inland RV has a 'kit' for these. Actually he has a couple,with one having the vent cap (about $40) and the other having just the gasket and wire (precut: $6.50). I went ahead and ordered 2 gasket kits from him.
By the way during my conversation with Inland RV they suggested another type of cement instead of Vulkem. It was very similar to vulkem but had a longer set time. I figure those guys know just as much about AS's as Airstream does
I see i have some inspecting to do tomorrow on my trailer....i have already learned so much and have a notebook taking notes already...I thought i would have to pay someone to do these things but it looks like i can do it myself..if have the tools and all the advice i need here...thank you so very much....
i have inspected my new to me trailer and everything still looks new, the wood in all the cabinets, the stove is beautiful and the refrigerator was made in sweden..everything works...one problem though...in the back where the cord is stored, it is all rusty in there and ugly, looks like when the man towed it to my house i think he scraped on the dirt backing it in and i notice it has some rusty thin type metal plate kind of hanging...my question is this..do i have to have it welded or what? My friend is a welder, will i need him?
Hi Browniiis88,
Since you are asking about a different topic then the vent repair, I'd suggest you start a new thread with a heading something like "Do I need a welder??". And post a photo or two of the area of concern. You will then be directing your "new" question to an audience who may be able to help you - those with knowlledge of welding. Right now, you are asking in a thread dealing with vent covers. Good luck!
yes i thought that too before i removed the vent caps.
mine were from the factory with the screen underneath. i really don't think it matters that much as the big dollop of vulkem is what actually seals the vent.
the real issue is taking a look at them every 5 years or so and replacing the gasket/vulkem combination. if the screen is on top, that works as well!
john
John, my screens were under the gasket like yours so I just installed the new kit like you did. No problems but for some reason my Trempro reacted with the rubber gasket and the gray turned to a slight amber color. I will probably trim some of the Trempro off and seal on top again to make it blend in with the trailer. Trempro everywhere else such as the solar panel mounts has dried a nice gray color that is smooth and rubbery to feel.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I will probably trim some of the Trempro off and seal on top again to make it blend in with the trailer. Trempro everywhere else such as the solar panel mounts has dried a nice gray color that is smooth and rubbery to feel.
Great thread; was directed here from one I started yesterday. This Trempro stuff is it a readily available product, I like that smooth and rubbery feel myself. Definitely not what was used at the Factory. Has anyone had to remove the vent completely from a similiar unit? Seems kind of cramped up there. Kind of windy yesterday,spent just enough time to take some pic's and spread some "quack" tape for a quick temporary fix. Thanks everyone!!!
If you look closely you can see the the screw holes in the flange that were just covered over with that gray matter