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Old 09-04-2014, 04:47 PM   #1
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Dump valve leak

I seem to have a leak in what I am sure is the valve labeled 'Main'. Although the tanks are empty now, I would get a slow drip from the (new) cap. It appears I also need a new white connector fitting as that drips as well. Replacing/ repairing these valves looks like I must remove that huge underbelly pan cover. Has anyone ever added a new valve outside of that near the existing levers? I'm not sure if cutting the 3" ABS behind the levers would work, or somehow out on the end. I would not know how I could do this without blocking those levers, or reducing my ground clearance by angling the new valve away from them.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:21 PM   #2
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You could install a Valterra twist on dump valve. I use one because the grey water valve leaks a very small amount. I replaced the black water valve a couple of years ago. A 6 on a difficulty scale of 10. Replacing the grey water valve would be at least a 9 on that scale.
The Valterra twist on valve was a 1 on the scale.
If you have Thetford fittings now. You will need an adaptor for the Valterra to work.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:48 PM   #3
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I replaced the valves and pipes in both an 86 and an 89 the past few months. Use shears to cut open the pan and peel it back. Replace the valves and the pipes and the fittings all the way out. They used two different kinds around that time so you need to open it up and see what you have. You probably have thetford. At the same time put a new fitting on the end and it will take a standard size sewer hose.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:04 PM   #4
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Did you use a specific brand for replacement, and where did you get them. Also, thanks for the info!
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:30 PM   #5
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I also replaced the dump valves on my 86 due to their leaking. I jacked her up and removed that big old pan. I found the tanks hanging from their drains and vent lines. The weight of the tanks is supported by this pan as near as I could tell.

The drain plumbing is calked and hose clamped into the plastic tanks. It came out fairly easily. So I re-plumbed the whole drain manifold. I used Valterra valves as I liked their sealing arrangement better. No more leaking for now.

You can add the bayonet twist on dump valve for now. But get ready for a dump valve replacement.

David

It is a big job to replace these dump valves as Airstream buried them in this big, insulated pan and routes heat to them so they won't freeze. I sure wish Airstream has made an access hatch so we could service the dump valves easier.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:28 AM   #6
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I'm showing a couple before and after pics. This is an 89 mid bath with Valtera valves. I sawed off the old pipes then loosen the compression clamp on the tank and work out the valve. It's held in or sealed with vulkem or tempro now. You will need a 3" street elbow, 3"-3" rubber coupling with clamps, 3" long turn tee and a couple of feet of 3" pipe and the new standard hose fitting for the end. Also a new cap. You can use abs or pvc it doesn't matter. I used both because I wanted the black showing outside. Use transition glue when assembling pvc to abs. Oh yeah and of course two new valves. Put the valves back in with tempro and clamp down. Drill out the 1/8" rivet on the dump pull ext. tube and remove the tube/ pull handle. Spend a little time getting the length correct on the tube/pull handle and carefully drill a new hole thru the new valves pull rod and install with a rivet. I put the cover back together with 3 pieces of 4" strips of metal, many rivets and tempro. It sure is nice not having "the drip" any more.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:47 AM   #7
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Here is my experience with it. Most likely the tank pan bolts are frozen and will break if you try to remove them. A 4.5" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel works well for cutting the pan. The twist on Valtera valve is a good backup. You never know when a valve will fail or something will get caught in it.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...th-109487.html

Perry
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:36 PM   #8
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Oh and I just drilled two starter holes(be careful near the tanks) and I used these shears I got at Harbor Freight and cut a three sided opening and peeled it down out of the way.
Rob
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:28 PM   #9
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For sure, cutting the whole in the bottom and replacing the valves is the way to go. I use to always peak into the hole where the valve rod comes out so I could see where drill, so to not drill into the tank. Then cut out a little at a time. Getting the unit high off the ground is also a but plus!
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Old 09-05-2014, 03:04 PM   #10
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Not being familiar with your waste system layout but here is food for thought:

We repaired both 3 inch valves on our Avion last year because one was weeping. Since the piping is glued I opted to unbolt and split each valve rather than replacing a mass of plumbing. Valterra sells a gate kit that comes with a new gate assembly, gaskets, and hardware. This was a much easier fix for us.

The tricky part was that the original bolts were heavily corroded and I was unable to remove all four on each valve. I ended up using my Sawzall to cut through the old gate assembly, then spread apart the flanges. After cleaning the faying surfaces the new gates slide right in and bolted up with ease. I opted to use stainless steel nuts and bolts rather than the zinc units supplied in the kit.

Amazon.com: Valterra T1003PBC 3" Valve Body: Automotive

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:24 PM   #11
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The older valves were made by Thetford and they are different from the Valtera valves.

Perry
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:17 AM   #12
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I have the service manual, so I saw how it was plumbed together, and you just validated that. Here in California, pvc sewer plumbing is not code, so it is not sold anywhere, so black abs is my only choice anyway. I thank you once again for your insight!
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