Drip behind cook stove

[Theo]

I did a visual, and then a pressure check (12 lbs) on the water system, and found nothing to overly concern me... I then connected water, and turned it on. After the obligatory gurgles bubbles and hisses, the flow steadied, and I had water to everything it should go to..

However, I have one leak that I can see doing the after on inspection, and that is not major, but does deposit a small amount on the floor, in 10 minutes, so I need to address it swiftly.

It is coming from behind the cook stove, on the rear right side, approx 1.5 inches in from the back lip of the cooker.

1972 Safari, dual axle, rear bath, curb side cookstove.

a) Does anyone know what is behind there that is likely to leak?

b) Does anyone know how to remove the cook stove to find out?

Another thing: Does this trailer have one, or two waste tanks, and how do I service the leaking valve.

I have many more questions, but limited memory, so I will wait a while before posting the next lot.

Theo

[overlander64]

Greetings Theo!

I am guessing that your coach may have the optional water filter system that was typically mounted to the right of the kitchen sink which would place it about where your leak seems to be found. My suspicion is that the filter cannister was probably removed during the winterization process and the valve set to "Bypass", but the valve may be leaking or not completely closed allowing some water to escape.

This is just one of many possibilities, but one that I have had with my Overlander on one ocassion.

Unless your coach has been modified along the way, it likely only has a black water tank - - the gray water tank wouldn't appear until the next year if my notes are correct. There wasn't a gray water tank unless it was added aftermarket so you will likely find that you need a blue tank or other arrangements for gray water.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

[Navigator]

Water line to the kitchen sink.
Curb side stove on my 73 Soverign came out real easy.
Dick

[Sneakinup]

I had a similar mystery on my 72 Overlander. It turned out to be the tiniest pinhole in the copper water line. It was shooting an almost invisible jet stream against the back wall under the stove and above the furnace. Easy fix... for once!

It's worth checking out. With water pressure on, just run your hand along all the water lines. Or, use the toilet tissue test. I tape a strip in the area I want to locate the leak (whether from the roof or otherwise) and when it gets wet, it is really visible. Great for detecting roof leaks.

Good luck!

[Theo]

I have the water filter, and it was removed for some reason, but the bypass seems ok - it is not leaking. But, this brings on the question......

What filter will fit in the filter holder, currently not attached to the fitting in my trailer?

The leak is actually right behind the stove, in a totally unreachable place. Getting the stove out seems necessary to access the area, and it does not look too logical as to how I achieve that. All I need do is pull it out a little to see behind..

Theo

[smily]

It is a piece of cake. Simply remove screws in the top of the range that go into the Countertop. You should be able to pull the whole thing forwad, You will find two wires that are for the light bulb, (12v) and the gas line which will move with the unit. If gas line does not move, you may have to disconnect it under the stove top but that is very easy also.

Go get that leak!
Smily

[Sneakinup]

In my unit which is also a 72, although an Overlander, and to my knowledge not that much different, there are no water pipes running behind the furnace or stove top. Yours could be somewhat different. All of my plumbing is exposed (no, I'm not a flasher!) and easily accessible (it depends who is asking).

As Smily said, the stove top moves fairly easily. I'd much rather hunt down a water leak than an electrical problem!

It should be fairly easy to locate and fix, albeit the initial frustration.

[Theo]

Thanks guys.. I removed four inch long screws from the sides of the stove top, and nothing moved.. Am to assume there are more, hidden somewhere. As long as that is the way to remove the thing, I will hunt for any screws in the sides and then just yank it out.. I should probably turn off the gas when I do that, huh?

I hate to say this, but I am having fun, all thanks to you guys - If I was dealing with this alone, no help, and isolated from knowledge, I would be in a very bad state by now.. Probably wouldn't have the trailer in one piece either.. I should not repeat myself so often, but this site is awesome!!

Theo

[Theo]

I found the leak after I got the 8 screws out of the cooker..

The leak is not behind it at all, that is just where gravity takes over - the leak is the faucet - I need to learn how to fix the thing. I imagine it is the standard one - everything else seems that way.

Theo

[Janet H]

Consider just replacing the faucet. The original on our Argosy was not great and the nice new one we put in is a vast improvement.

[Theo]

After seeing prices for bits of Airstreams in various places, I am very leery of buying anything new... OR, do you have a source for a faucet.. OR, can I use a domestic type one? or does it have to RV scale.

I am learning a great deal about things I never had to deal with before. My previous experience in Trailer restoration and repair was done exclusively on SOB trailers, that makes my knowledge more or less useless. Nothing in my trailer is like anything I have ever seen before..

[Safari Tim]

I replaced my faucet with one I got from Home Depot. You just have to check the spacing of the hot and cold inlets of the original faucet.

I think it was 4" spacing on mine. Cost was about $25.

My problem was my original faucet was so corroided, there was no way to remove it.

I had to have my cousin come by with his saw zaw and cut the faucet into peices.

We did it w/o sink or counter damage , but it was a chore.

One thing is for sure, when fixing a vintage unit you have to stay flexible and creative!

[j54mark]

Theo, Much of your coach is very much like any rv - but where it is different, boy is it different.

I am guessing your furnace is an NT series Suburban. Very, very common, and still in use today after all these years, practically unchanged. Water heaters are not proprietary - BUT getting one with a matching aluminum cover seems to be out of the question. Fortunately, many times the old cover can be reused. Any plumbing issues can be resolved with a trip to local plumbing suppliers. Same with most electrical items.

Good luck!

Mark