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Old 10-30-2015, 11:58 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
The quickest way to drain the fresh water tank is to have my eldest daughter take a shower. ( just one shower )
Good one!
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:09 PM   #16
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Ditto to most of the new comments.

Seems to me that there are at least three possible projects underway here, which only Glenn (OP) can clarify:

1. Drain only the fresh water tank:
2. Drain hot and cold plumbing lines at low-point drains (but don't winterize any further):
3. Perform a full winterization including compressed air, RV antifreeze, etc..

Until Glenn clarifies his goal, the advice here will remain cluttered and unclear IMO.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:18 PM   #17
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To drain the fresh water tank just open the fill door and take the cap off to let air in, there's also a small vent next to the cap. It is slow anyway bit will eventually drain, I leave the drain valve open so no leftover water can get into the valve, freeze and break it.

OTRA15, I recall our 20 had two sets of drain valves for the water lines. One set in the rear storage compartment and another set in a front storage, maybe next to the water heater. The larger models with ducted heating direct warm air to the tanks, the smaller models with direct furnace heat use the electric tank heaters.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:29 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
[snip]
OTRA15, I recall our 20 had two sets of drain valves for the water lines. One set in the rear storage compartment and another set in a front storage, maybe next to the water heater. The larger models with ducted heating direct warm air to the tanks, the smaller models with direct furnace heat use the electric tank heaters.
Correct on the FC20 low-point drains, as discussed on the 20-footer thread.

Did you have the electric tank heaters in your 20' and what is your guidance on the margin of error they afford? If not, any general thoughts on them?

Thanks.

PS -- edit -- and ditto to doug's advice to leave the drain valves open. I do this on all of them. The small amount of dust, small creatures, etc. which might enter over the winter is nothing compared to having to replace a frozen/broken drain valve. In the Spring, when I fill the fresh water tank, I follow AS's advice about adding some bleach (forget how much right now), and I run lots of this conditioned water through all the plumbing lines, including drains, before refilling the tank 2-3 more times with clean water, and letting all the lines run free again.

When traveling in areas with questionable potable water, it is also -- IMO -- a good idea/insurance to add some bleach to each tankful, and to use bottled water only for all cooking and human/canine/feline consumption. I guess "mammalian" would have been a better adjective . . . ?

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Old 10-30-2015, 12:53 PM   #19
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OTRA15, not many bugs around to get into the open valves when it's 20 below is there.

I never really trusted the electric tank heaters, and how can you leave them on all night without a reliable external power source. So I just drained everything if out on the road or camping and filled the water back up the next day if we needed it.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:00 PM   #20
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There is also an inspection cover under trailer on the tank pan, and removing it should expose the screw plug on the bottom of the tank. Too much work for draining the tank. I second everyone else's note. It takes a long time to drain a full tank; open the valve... and go have a couple of beers!
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:33 PM   #21
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FWIW.....last season while Winterizing I jacked up the street side to ck brake wiring AFTER I drained the FW tank, the new ball valve was still open, to my surprise it started draining again and continued for the better part of an hour.
It's now part of the routine.
I always assumed there was water left in the tank, just not that much.

This came in handy when installing the ball valve.



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Old 10-30-2015, 06:30 PM   #22
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Wives work pretty good also!
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:42 PM   #23
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With the low point vents open wouldn't you just turn on the pump and force it out?


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Old 10-30-2015, 06:56 PM   #24
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Glenn's original Post No. 1 contained the following headline which does not show in the quote below:

"Draining Fresh H2O Tank"

Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU1981 View Post
Just Sanitized the fresh H2O tank & now draining - my FC 27FB 2015 has the white poly drain & 2 brass ones - can I use all 3 or do I just have to use the white one - that's taking forever.

Thanks,

Glenn
As you can see Glenn, the variety of advice here covers most possibilities. Could you possibly fine-tune what you want to accomplish, per the following post from earlier today?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Ditto to most of the new comments.

Seems to me that there are at least three possible projects underway here, which only Glenn (OP) can clarify:

1. Drain only the fresh water tank:
2. Drain hot and cold plumbing lines at low-point drains (but don't winterize any further):
3. Perform a full winterization including compressed air, RV antifreeze, etc..

Until Glenn clarifies his goal, the advice here will remain cluttered and unclear IMO.
Moving on to the recent question from twobikes:

Quote:
Originally Posted by twobikes View Post
With the low point vents open wouldn't you just turn on the pump and force it out?
[snip]
Turning the pump on, assuming there is any water left in the tank, would force water out of the hot and cold low-point drains which are "downstream" of the pump, but someone should be ready to turn the pump off quickly so as not to burn it out, as there is probably little if any water left in the fresh water tank.

Turning the pump on will NOT force any water out of the white plastic tank drain, which was the original poster Glenn's main original question IMO. [see quote at top, including Glenn's original headline above it in bold font]

Again, if Glenn would make clear exactly what he is trying to accomplish, we might be better able to offer meaningful advice IMO.
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