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Old 06-08-2009, 05:13 PM   #1
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Copper lines

Hello; I would like to know how to repair frozen water lines, I coupling won't fit over the copper because it's swollen. I don't like the hose/clamp route, I don't trust. it.
Bud 1972 Safari.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:21 PM   #2
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Hello; I would like to know how to repair frozen water lines, I coupling won't fit over the copper because it's swollen. I don't like the hose/clamp route, I don't trust. it.
Bud 1972 Safari.
Cut back to where the lines are the correct size, or pull them out and replace with PEX. There is really no way to repair a swollen copper line.

Aaron
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:24 PM   #3
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We had broken pipes everywere, we just replace everything with pex. Old copper is just that old copper. You might find as some here have that the o.d. is different on the old pipe compared to what is available today. More problems.

Annette
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:41 PM   #4
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I too had same problem. Called a plumber and I told him to put a coupler on it but when he saw that (1) the pipes were green(corrosion) (2) the 1/2 inch copper swelled up then a coupler could not applied he basically was going to say goodbye. I'm ripping all of it out now and putting in all new. Yes, plex. But I can't do the plex because I don't have the tool and I don't want any problems in the out years. Get 'er done now; and right. At least I can do the ripping and save on some expense.
I have a picture of the green pipe.
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:42 PM   #5
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Cutting and replacing with copper is an easy and permanent fix.
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:42 PM   #6
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You can get the tool at Home Depot for $54. I did... Or rental shops will rent them out..
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:43 PM   #7
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Copper lines

Thanks for all the replies, I think I will do the PEX
Bud 1972 23' Safari.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:53 PM   #8
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Purchase a plumber's swage (sp?) from a hardware store and enlarge the pipe which is swollen until the replacement copper will fit inside of it. (I had to do this in numerous places.) You'll notice from the picture graduated diameters on the swage.

Sweating copper is not difficult provided you clean the joints very well with emory cloth or wire brush (battery terminal brush works well). Apply flux to both fittings and join together, heat with torch till cherry red, touch the end of the solder to the joint and watch it get sucked into the gap. It is a skill set which can be re-used over and over again.

A propane torch, solder, flux, a copper cutting wheel, and the proper fittings, replacement copper and a little patience are all you need. Maybe a $25 investment, and you don't have to return a thing.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:12 PM   #9
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Cherry red is too hot.

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Originally Posted by PizzaChop View Post
Purchase a plumber's swage (sp?) from a hardware store and enlarge the pipe which is swollen until the replacement copper will fit inside of it. (I had to do this in numerous places.) You'll notice from the picture graduated diameters on the swage.

Sweating copper is not difficult provided you clean the joints very well with emory cloth or wire brush (battery terminal brush works well). Apply flux to both fittings and join together, heat with torch till cherry red, touch the end of the solder to the joint and watch it get sucked into the gap. It is a skill set which can be re-used over and over again.

A propane torch, solder, flux, a copper cutting wheel, and the proper fittings, replacement copper and a little patience are all you need. Maybe a $25 investment, and you don't have to return a thing.
If you are getting your copper cherry red you are burning up your flux,it doesn`t need to be near that hot,just hot enough to melt the solder.If you want to get it red hot then skip the flux and use silver solder.Dave
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:01 PM   #10
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I 'inherited' a number of split copper pipes in our rade Wind 3 years ago.. For quick fixes I cut the copper at the split and slipped a reinforced plastic tubing connector and clamp it in place. I am slowly replacing all of the copper with PEX begining with the damaged pipe. The quick fix keeps us traveling but I reguarly check the 'fixes' that are left. Pex with Shark Bite connectors are the way to go.
Neil.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:19 AM   #11
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Sil-fos (hard Solder) does the trick for me in a pinch. Mapp gas is required as it has a higher melting point however, sil-fos has the strength to cover the split without fear of leaking. External flux is not required as each stick has its own. This is not for confined places as the copper has to get "almost" cherry red. Also, if you have a soft solder joint close by, you have an opportunity to disrupt it as well...wrap a wet rag around it to act as a heat sink.
This type of repair is permenant and "almost" fool-proof and buys time before you change out to PEX.
Good-luck
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:51 AM   #12
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If you are getting your copper cherry red you are burning up your flux,it doesn`t need to be near that hot,just hot enough to melt the solder.If you want to get it red hot then skip the flux and use silver solder.Dave
Okay, bad use of terms. I do only get it hot enough till the solder melts.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:55 AM   #13
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another option

One other option after the swollen pipe has been cut out is to rent or purchase a flaring tool. Unless the pipe is hugely swollen, it should not be a problem to create a decent flare.

You can then flare the cut ends and put in a couple unions to install a new piece of pipe. Unions for copper pipe may not be available at your local big box store (Lowes, etc) but a plumbing supply place should be able to get them.
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:03 AM   #14
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I had problems with the shark bite connectors

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Originally Posted by FreshAir View Post
I 'inherited' a number of split copper pipes in our rade Wind 3 years ago.. For quick fixes I cut the copper at the split and slipped a reinforced plastic tubing connector and clamp it in place. I am slowly replacing all of the copper with PEX begining with the damaged pipe. The quick fix keeps us traveling but I reguarly check the 'fixes' that are left. Pex with Shark Bite connectors are the way to go.
Neil.
My sharkbite repair job in my house leaked. I am thinking that the sharkbite relies on water pressure ( I don't always have water pressure in my trailer )to keep a tight fit. But I don't know.
Also I think that the sharkbite couplers need to be secured and in a very strait line. I don't know that I fully trust the shark bite sustem. My city based plumbing supply expert said that he won't recommend them, stating that they are only widely used in the country where water pressure is much lower than in the city. Please educate me if you can. Dave
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