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Old 04-07-2014, 02:19 PM   #15
Rivet Master
Wingeezer's Avatar
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,730
As others have said, you may well be able to loosen the lock nut and screw in the tee handle a couple of turns to solve your problem. My trailer provides that adjustment, I'm nt sure if they all do.

Another possible issue might be the operating rod arrangement.

Again, I don't know if yours is set up like mine, but the operating rod going to the black tank valve has a ninety degree bend in it. Because of this, when you push the tee handle in, you are not getting a direct push on the valve operating rod and things don't work as smoothly as they might.

If the valve on mine mine is at all baulky and doesn't want to close well, I reach in behind, grab the portion of the operating rod after the ninety degree bend and push directly there as well as on the tee handle - that gets it the valve closed nice and securely.


(PS - not sure I would be trying hydrochloric acid! But if you do, and if you want to dilute it, add acid to water, not water to acid when diluting. If you do it incorrectly the acid can spit up in your face! Safety glasses recommended in any case!)

Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:27 PM   #16
Rivet Master
1999 28' Excella
New Orleans , Louisiana
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 675
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I did the same thing..turned the handle to get the clips to go on..then I had seepage from the valve. Returned it to the difficult position and no seepage. Just checked lock nut was loose. Hope it doesn't change our situation since we got it corrected. We do have to push hard to close the black tank. Gray is easy and works fine.

Great info!

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Old 04-13-2014, 11:14 AM   #17
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1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,157
I've been through this as well. About 2-1/2 years ago I had JC rebuild the valve on my '87 Excella. It was rather involved, as they had to cut open part of the banana skins (which was partly replaced with new sheet aluminum). Last week I was in JC again, and this issue came up, as the knob on the black water valve had actually snapped off as it was very hard to open the valve. JC flushed the tank and it helped somewhat. The issue is that crud builds up on the blade of the valve. As well, toilet paper gets stuck in the blade seal. All this means that firstly you must use a good enzyme product that breaks down all solids including toilet paper (the one I know of is called Unique, and is sold at Ace Hardware stores - it is in their catalog so it can be ordered by the store), and secondly, flushing the tank. While I would normally use a backflush, JC used a pipe attached to a hose that sprayed the water out of a hole on the side - this was done with the valve open so anything caught in the seal would wash away. From what I gather, this is the only way to fix this issue, short of a major re-engineering of the waste system.

AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
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