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Old 05-21-2013, 06:56 AM   #43
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2013 20' Flying Cloud
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I have been making accumulator tanks for every trailer we have ever owned. I use 3" pvc pipe with both ends capped mounted vertically in the highest spot that I can find that still gives me access. I drill and tap a t-fitting in the bottom cap and a ball valve of some type at the top. The valve is to let air into the tank so it can drain for winterizing. Close the valve for use and the water will enter the tank from the bottom causing an air pocket at the top. The pump will run longer when it comes on depending on the length of the pvc and the size of the air pocket. This system has always eliminated pump surge and spitting at the faucets. I have only used one tank in a trailer water system. Our new A$ has the newer style variable speed pump and at this point I don't know if I need an accumulator tank. We have not yet camped in our new trailer
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:11 AM   #44
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I found a T fitting at Home Depot, which to me is amazon since for me they seem to carry everything but what I need. It has a 1/2" female on one end and 1/2" male on the other end. The T is 3/8" male so I hope that doesn't mater. I have a pre-made flexible 20" pipe that has the 3/8" connector female and 1/2" female. I had to go to an RV dealer to get a 1/2" test plug to plug the unused end of the accumulator. I mounted the accumulator on the back wall under the kitchen sink next to the water filter. Plumbers tape was needed for a water tight connection of the female end while the exist PEX 1/2 female couple side didn't.

I'm not sure I noticed much if any change in the way the water pumper sounds or responds to water discharge. Does that 3/8" pipe to the accumulator make a difference vs using 1/2"? Finding fittings to do this plumbing work is frustrating.

I'll try to post a photo tomorrow.

Kelvin
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:34 AM   #45
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For what its worth, I have never had a problem with water delivery on my 2002 ASCL 31'. When I took delivery from CanAm RV Andy Thomson advised me that he had installed a curb side pressure relief valve in the water line so that when the water heater over pressured the lines the relief valve would dump that pressure (which it occasionally has).

I live in Houston, TX, where I don't have to winterize and have NEVER drained the water heater, although I do bi-monthly fill/dump the fresh water tank and circulate water through the system.

I have had to adjust the "Aquajet RV Series" water pump pressure switch to control cycling (allen wrench in head) and replace the pump head "5 chamber diaphragm" several years ago due to it's failure (fatigue).
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:01 PM   #46
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Well, we finally got to camp out in the "rolling jellybean". Our A$ has a variable speed water pump that starts out slowly then goes into high gear as the pressure in the line drops. This is the first trailer we ever owned that I don't feel needs an accumulator tank. This style water pump does the trick.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:37 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Joe Palmieri View Post
Well, we finally got to camp out in the "rolling jellybean". Our A$ has a variable speed water pump that starts out slowly then goes into high gear as the pressure in the line drops. This is the first trailer we ever owned that I don't feel needs an accumulator tank. This style water pump does the trick.
These pumps work quite well.

I added the accumulator primarily to take up the thermal expansion of the water in the plumbing lines that often leaks out the hot water pressure relief valve and any place else in the system fittings in can find a weak spot.

The smoothing of the pump cycle is an added benefit.

doug k
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:21 AM   #48
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These pumps work quite well.

I added the accumulator primarily to take up the thermal expansion of the water in the plumbing lines that often leaks out the hot water pressure relief valve and any place else in the system fittings in can find a weak spot.

The smoothing of the pump cycle is an added benefit.

doug k
Hmmmmm, I didn't think of that. I will keep an eye out for an expansion drip at the relief valve. If it shows up I will make and install another accumulator tank.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:38 PM   #49
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Kelvin, just open a faucet and that will bleed any water and pressure from the accumulator quickly. doug k On edit, it may be wise to also install it with fittings end down so when you drain the plumbing system, any water inside will gravity-feed out.
I think that the air pressure in the tank should expel all the water out of the unit, correct? The plumbing line to/from the tank is a different story I would imagine, and gravity would need to be used to take the water away from there if attempting to drain.
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:54 PM   #50
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Red face Accumulator wouldn't have helped.....

.......WP, WH off while towing and at night, have never camped with "hook-ups". Bubble in WH never has been a problem. If we need water we turn the pump on.
Pump and WH never left on un-attended.
Very bad experience being woke-up in the middle of the night by a clicking WP, bathroom fitting sprung a leak...not fun. Lesson learned.

Bob
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:27 PM   #51
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I think that the air pressure in the tank should expel all the water out of the unit, correct? The plumbing line to/from the tank is a different story I would imagine, and gravity would need to be used to take the water away from there if attempting to drain.
If the fitting is on top, the accumulator may expel the water inside but would still leave some in and near the fitting that could freeze, expand and break the fitting, I would think.
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