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Old 05-13-2013, 12:28 AM   #29
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I acquired the Shurflo accumulator from comments I read on the forum and plan to install it under the bathroom sink and attach it to the plywood panel I see there. The comments about loosing the air bubble over time in the hot water tank leave me wondering if an additional unit needs to be installed on a hot water line as well. These units are small enough I think I could squeeze one beside the cold water unit.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:12 AM   #30
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I acquired the Shurflo accumulator from comments I read on the forum and plan to install it under the bathroom sink and attach it to the plywood panel I see there. The comments about loosing the air bubble over time in the hot water tank leave me wondering if an additional unit needs to be installed on a hot water line as well. These units are small enough I think I could squeeze one beside the cold water unit.

So is Shurflo Accumulator Tank 182-200 for the cold water line, or the hot water line? As I said, this is really confusing to me. I didn't realize one was needed for the cold water line and one for the hot water line.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:23 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
I acquired the Shurflo accumulator from comments I read on the forum and plan to install it under the bathroom sink and attach it to the plywood panel I see there. The comments about loosing the air bubble over time in the hot water tank leave me wondering if an additional unit needs to be installed on a hot water line as well. These units are small enough I think I could squeeze one beside the cold water unit.
They are not designed to be installed on a hot water line. Nor would that make any difference because the hot and cold water lines are not internally separated by any valves. The pressures between the two are always equal.

It is important to know these little accumulators have very limited capacity to absorb any excess pressures that happen, or to deliver much water volume when the water pump is off.

So, don't get your expectations too high. They are a nice "shock absorber" in the system taking up this hot water expansion that the water heater air pocket can't, and smoothing the overall operation of the pump as it cycles. I still ensure the hot water heater has the pocket from time to time. Lifting the hot water pressure release valve, or if it releases water pressure, will also lose the air pocket.

You sometimes may see water seeping out from your external hot water heater compartment that actually is not from the hot water plumbing. It is from propane combustion at the water heater burner, which produces much water vapor that, especially in cold weather, will condense in the water heater compartment and drain out.

doug k
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:29 AM   #32
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On this page is an easy method of restoring the air pocket in your hot water heater:

http://wbcci.org/general-information...-february-2013

If your hot water heater is releasing hot water out of this pressure relief valve, your air pocket may be gone. And it probably is; that's the reason I installed the water pressure accumulator described early in this thread.

doug k
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:34 AM   #33
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I would suggest checking to see if the mfg of your waterpump recommends the use of a accumulator before installing one.My Shureflo Revolution instructions clearly state not to use one with this water pump.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:00 AM   #34
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I have the Aquajet 3.5gpm. I beleive its a variable flow pump. I'm thinking of adding the Shurflo Accumulator. I looked in my bathroom sink area and the pipes are coming up by the back wall. I'm thinking it would be easier to put a T fitting between the line and the faucet and run one line to the Accumulator and block the other end. The question is will I be able to find a fitting that will work?

Did you think of that option before doing the in and out line install?

Kelvin
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:05 AM   #35
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I have installed a Shurflo tank directly at the output of the pump. We are quite happy with the results. It evened out the pulses of the variable speed pump and made things quieter.

As I mentioned, my trailer has a Shurflo variable speed pump, which is a model that Shurflo says they do not recommend using an accumulator tank with. They also say "the variable speed pump will deliver home like water flow without pulses".

I don't know if the engineer or the marketing guy, or maybe both, were smoking crack, but I never had a smooth even flow with a variable speed pump. It was constantly surging.

The tank helped.

In our 27FB, the tank mounted easily under the wardrobe, attached directly to the output of the water pump, using only the double female "jumper" included with the tank.


Regards,

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:04 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Moflash View Post
I would suggest checking to see if the mfg of your waterpump recommends the use of a accumulator before installing one.My Shureflo Revolution instructions clearly state not to use one with this water pump.
Checking the Shurflo Revolution instructions here it says "Accumulator not needed".

http://www.shurflo.com/files/RV-Inst...911-1008-D.pdf

Maybe, but my accumulator improved the operation of the water pump, made the water system work more smoothly, and mitigated system overpressure problems.

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Old 05-17-2013, 11:01 AM   #37
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I just purchased one and I'll be checking out locations for mounting mine on our weekend AS trip. I'll probably look to under the bathroom sink. I may try the T install. Find a T fitting between the faucet and the cold water line and then run a flexible stainless line to the tank and install a cap on the exit of the tank.

I guess the only disadvantage to using this is there is always some pressure on the system. We usually take the pressure off the system while towing.

Kelvin
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:33 AM   #38
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Kelvin, just open a faucet and that will bleed any water and pressure from the accumulator quickly.

doug k

On edit, it may be wise to also install it with fittings end down so when you drain the plumbing system, any water inside will gravity-feed out.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:51 AM   #39
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Why didn't I realize that when I posted. I'm starting to loose it.

I was looking under my bath sink. Seems a little difficult to route the extra hose.

The issue I'm having with these plumbing projects is finding the fittings. I think I may mount my accumulator in under the kitchen sink. I would need some type of T fitting that would screw onto the faucet male pipe the other end of the T would connect the 1/2" female screw on fitting. The T part then needs to take the water line to the accumulator. The accumulator has a male 1/2" fitting. The T fitting would have to have a female but I'm not sure if anyway makes such an fitting. If the fitting T is male then can you get a hose with two female fittings? I may have to make my own hose out of flexible hose with two female connectors.

I'm scared to cut any PEX.

Kelvin
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:44 PM   #40
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Just get a 1/2" Tee (F/F/F) with all female fittings. In the places where you need a male fitting. Add a close nipple, about 1 1/2" in length.
Since the faucet fitting is either brass or plastic, I would use a brass tee and brass nipples.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:09 AM   #41
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Our 2013 did not come with any accumulator from the factory and the recommendations for maintaining the air pocket in the HW tank still apply... for our peace of mind, we always shut off the HW at night and release pressure in the waterlines through a sink.
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:59 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Just get a 1/2" Tee (F/F/F) with all female fittings. In the places where you need a male fitting. Add a close nipple, about 1 1/2" in length.
Since the faucet fitting is either brass or plastic, I would use a brass tee and brass nipples.
Something like this may work

1/2" NPT Street Tee T Fitting for Brass Pipe Dual Female/Single Male: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Then I can make a flexible hose with a 1/2" male and 1/2" female for the accumulator side.

Next is a 1/2 Npt Cap. Would a PVC cap work or should I go with brass? Maybe there is something in the irrigation dept at Lowe/Home Depot

I would use plumbers tape on all fittings.

Kelvin
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