Adding Water Pressure Accumulator

[dznf0g]

I have never experienced any of those issues, but I never have my HWH filled for more than 3 or 4 weeks at a time. Yes I do see your point if there is no air bubble in the HWH. Under "normal" use the pump pressure will never rise above the cutoff pressure. Perhaps when the time comes that I am more of a "near" full timer, I'll change my opinion.

I still would advise it is not necessary to run out and get an accumulator if you 1) have a variable speed pump, and 2) you drain your HWH every month or two.

[dkottum]

I wonder how many small water leaks exist in many rv's as well as Airstreams, some unknown and some puddling on the ground beneath, due to these closed water systems.
Note that it is closed even when hooked up to campground supplies due to their anti-backflow valves.

We had a plumbing leak shortly after buying this new Airstream that came through to drip onto the ground. I was sure at the time that it was from a poorly crimped pex fitting, so I recrimped it slightly. As I think about it, it may have been at least partially the fault of expansion in the closed water system because it did not appear until we had been hooked to campground water for a week or two, plenty of time for the water heater air bubble to be absorbed or discharged.

doug k

[dznf0g]

I'm sure many do have small undiscovered leaks. I am so anal and interested in maintenance that there is no square inch I don't see at least annually, and probably more often than that. I also have installed little battery operated water alarms (6 of them). I locate them in the common rot areas I see here on the forums.

I was thinking about the air pocket absorption thing. I think that it would be good practice for folks who keep water in the system for extended periods of time to occasionally: 1) turn off the pump switch and 2) open the relief valve on the HWH and don't close it until water no longer runs out of it. This would restore your air pocket and prevent pressure buildup due to heating water. If you have a drain valve installed, you could drop the level down even further (to the level of the HW outlet pipe to the faucets.

[KJRitchie]

What is the maintenance on the Shurflo accumulator tank. You state the tank can be pressurized up to 125psi but 30psi works fine. Do you have to use a compressor or hand pump to pressurize the tank? Do you have to recharge the tank periodically? What about winterizing with one of these tanks?

If you develop a leak somewhere and you have one of these tanks will the water system leak a lot more water before your pump "burps"?

The pump can be mounted any where on the cold water circuit?

If I get one of these I better learn how to deal with PEX. Were you able to install this without cutting existing water hoses to fit the braided hoses?

Thanks

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

If the bladder is healthy and has no pinholes, the pressure maintenance is a rare thing. My previous SOB accumulator as well as 2 houses with wells and pressure tanks, I'd check the pressure every year or two....even then, adding air was not an every time thing.

[dkottum]

Kelvin, I installed the tank in January at standard pressure, used it every day since, and the pressure is still there. Whether 30 psi is enough or too much depends somewhat on your shore hookup and water pump pressure, but has worked for us wherever we hooked up and with our pump.

If you install it as shown in my photo, there is no winterization for it, it will just drain with the rest of the plumbing.

Yes, mount it anywhere in the cold water system after the pump.

To install it, I removed the cold water supply from the bath faucet and attached it to one side of the accumulator. Then I bought a 24" faucet supply line and run it from the other side of the accumulator back to the cold water bath faucet. Simple. I think it's described better above.

This accumulator only holds about a pint of water under pressure, but it does take up some of the pressure variations in the system and makes it operate more smoothly.

doug k

[BAB]

Doug, I just returned from 4 plus weeks in my new trailer. I can report that your suggestion to install the accumulator was a good one. Where I most noticed this was in the shower....water flow was very even. Thanks so much to you for posting this suggestion, it was easy to install. (Oh, I did validate the correct air pressure before I closed the access panel!)

[time2play]

Hi--I was just reading this thread. I'm not sure I understand much of what was said.

But I'm curious, we just purchased a 2013 Flying Cloud. Do you know if this issue was addressed in the new model? If not, should I take care of this now and install one? Or have the dealer install one?

Thanks

[switz]

I acquired the Shurflo accumulator from comments I read on the forum and plan to install it under the bathroom sink and attach it to the plywood panel I see there. The comments about loosing the air bubble over time in the hot water tank leave me wondering if an additional unit needs to be installed on a hot water line as well. These units are small enough I think I could squeeze one beside the cold water unit.

[time2play]

Originally Posted by switz

I acquired the Shurflo accumulator from comments I read on the forum and plan to install it under the bathroom sink and attach it to the plywood panel I see there. The comments about loosing the air bubble over time in the hot water tank leave me wondering if an additional unit needs to be installed on a hot water line as well. These units are small enough I think I could squeeze one beside the cold water unit.

So is Shurflo Accumulator Tank 182-200 for the cold water line, or the hot water line? As I said, this is really confusing to me. I didn't realize one was needed for the cold water line and one for the hot water line.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by switz

I acquired the Shurflo accumulator from comments I read on the forum and plan to install it under the bathroom sink and attach it to the plywood panel I see there. The comments about loosing the air bubble over time in the hot water tank leave me wondering if an additional unit needs to be installed on a hot water line as well. These units are small enough I think I could squeeze one beside the cold water unit.

They are not designed to be installed on a hot water line. Nor would that make any difference because the hot and cold water lines are not internally separated by any valves. The pressures between the two are always equal.

It is important to know these little accumulators have very limited capacity to absorb any excess pressures that happen, or to deliver much water volume when the water pump is off.

So, don't get your expectations too high. They are a nice "shock absorber" in the system taking up this hot water expansion that the water heater air pocket can't, and smoothing the overall operation of the pump as it cycles. I still ensure the hot water heater has the pocket from time to time. Lifting the hot water pressure release valve, or if it releases water pressure, will also lose the air pocket.

You sometimes may see water seeping out from your external hot water heater compartment that actually is not from the hot water plumbing. It is from propane combustion at the water heater burner, which produces much water vapor that, especially in cold weather, will condense in the water heater compartment and drain out.

doug k

[dkottum]

On this page is an easy method of restoring the air pocket in your hot water heater:

http://wbcci.org/general-information...-february-2013

If your hot water heater is releasing hot water out of this pressure relief valve, your air pocket may be gone. And it probably is; that's the reason I installed the water pressure accumulator described early in this thread.

doug k

[Moflash]

I would suggest checking to see if the mfg of your waterpump recommends the use of a accumulator before installing one.My Shureflo Revolution instructions clearly state not to use one with this water pump.

[KJRitchie]

I have the Aquajet 3.5gpm. I beleive its a variable flow pump. I'm thinking of adding the Shurflo Accumulator. I looked in my bathroom sink area and the pipes are coming up by the back wall. I'm thinking it would be easier to put a T fitting between the line and the faucet and run one line to the Accumulator and block the other end. The question is will I be able to find a fitting that will work?

Did you think of that option before doing the in and out line install?

Kelvin

[jdalrymple]

I have installed a Shurflo tank directly at the output of the pump. We are quite happy with the results. It evened out the pulses of the variable speed pump and made things quieter.

As I mentioned, my trailer has a Shurflo variable speed pump, which is a model that Shurflo says they do not recommend using an accumulator tank with. They also say "the variable speed pump will deliver home like water flow without pulses".

I don't know if the engineer or the marketing guy, or maybe both, were smoking crack, but I never had a smooth even flow with a variable speed pump. It was constantly surging.

The tank helped.

In our 27FB, the tank mounted easily under the wardrobe, attached directly to the output of the water pump, using only the double female "jumper" included with the tank.


Regards,

JD

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by Moflash

I would suggest checking to see if the mfg of your waterpump recommends the use of a accumulator before installing one.My Shureflo Revolution instructions clearly state not to use one with this water pump.

Checking the Shurflo Revolution instructions here it says "Accumulator not needed".

http://www.shurflo.com/files/RV-Inst...911-1008-D.pdf

Maybe, but my accumulator improved the operation of the water pump, made the water system work more smoothly, and mitigated system overpressure problems.

doug k

[KJRitchie]

I just purchased one and I'll be checking out locations for mounting mine on our weekend AS trip. I'll probably look to under the bathroom sink. I may try the T install. Find a T fitting between the faucet and the cold water line and then run a flexible stainless line to the tank and install a cap on the exit of the tank.

I guess the only disadvantage to using this is there is always some pressure on the system. We usually take the pressure off the system while towing.

Kelvin

[dkottum]

Kelvin, just open a faucet and that will bleed any water and pressure from the accumulator quickly.

doug k

On edit, it may be wise to also install it with fittings end down so when you drain the plumbing system, any water inside will gravity-feed out.

[KJRitchie]

Why didn't I realize that when I posted. I'm starting to loose it.

I was looking under my bath sink. Seems a little difficult to route the extra hose.

The issue I'm having with these plumbing projects is finding the fittings. I think I may mount my accumulator in under the kitchen sink. I would need some type of T fitting that would screw onto the faucet male pipe the other end of the T would connect the 1/2" female screw on fitting. The T part then needs to take the water line to the accumulator. The accumulator has a male 1/2" fitting. The T fitting would have to have a female but I'm not sure if anyway makes such an fitting. If the fitting T is male then can you get a hose with two female fittings? I may have to make my own hose out of flexible hose with two female connectors.

I'm scared to cut any PEX.

Kelvin

[TG Twinkie]

Just get a 1/2" Tee (F/F/F) with all female fittings. In the places where you need a male fitting. Add a close nipple, about 1 1/2" in length.
Since the faucet fitting is either brass or plastic, I would use a brass tee and brass nipples.