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Old 01-20-2013, 09:33 PM   #15
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I also have one under the kitchen sink in my 34'. Can a second be added by the shurflo pump under the wardrobe? I was thinking of adding one, because the pump is very loud at times (didn't know there already was one under the sink).
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:52 AM   #16
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Anyone with advice in size tank to use? I have a tankless water heater and have been thinking about a larger one than the little sureflo made for RV's but I don't know if a 1 or 2 gal is overkill. The little one looks pretty, well, little ... So I wonder how much of a difference it makes. I guess a normal water heater tank acts as a bit of an accumulator from what I've read and of course with a tankless heater I don't have that in the system which is the main reason I am thinking about something bigger.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:22 AM   #17
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I had a 1 gallon accumulator tank from Grainger on my old SOB. It had a single speed surflow pump and it eliminated all the issues discussed earlier. Used it for about 15 years. BUT, with the variable speed pump (not the OE Flowjet...but my replacement Surflow) I find no need for it. Once isolating the lines and adding the pulsation kit, I find my system runs to my complete satisfaction w/o an accumulator.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:28 AM   #18
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The little Shurflo takes up the excess pressure in the system that may cause water leaks, and provides a liter or less of water without the pump kicking in.

A second Shurflo may be okay, but I would think there is a point where the accumulator(s) becomes to large for the little 12 volt pump.

So then what, a larger pump, where does it end? I'm satisfied the little Shurflo does the job.

doug k
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:42 AM   #19
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The large one I used previously, as well as multiple Surflows just creates more on time....and likewise, more off time ( or less cycling). IF....you use the correct air pressures in the accumulators. I don't think it has either a positive nor negative effect on the pump...and pressures are never going to be more than the limit switch in the pump allows.
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
The large one I used previously, as well as multiple Surflows just creates more on time....and likewise, more off time ( or less cycling). IF....you use the correct air pressures in the accumulators. I don't think it has either a positive nor negative effect on the pump...and pressures are never going to be more than the limit switch in the pump allows.
Rich, the pressure does increase when the water in the plumbing system expands due to heating of the water heater. The "bubble" of air in the water heater is supposed to take up this expansion, but especially in the newer Airstreams with combo propane/electric water heaters, it's not enough. The result has been plumbing leaks for some, and excessive release of hot water out the water heater pressure release valve for others.

Over a short period, the water heater air bubble is often absorbed, so the closed system can not contain the additional pressure due to heating of the water.

The smoother operation of the pump and system in general is a side benefit of the accumulator.

doug k
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:44 PM   #21
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I have never experienced any of those issues, but I never have my HWH filled for more than 3 or 4 weeks at a time. Yes I do see your point if there is no air bubble in the HWH. Under "normal" use the pump pressure will never rise above the cutoff pressure. Perhaps when the time comes that I am more of a "near" full timer, I'll change my opinion.

I still would advise it is not necessary to run out and get an accumulator if you 1) have a variable speed pump, and 2) you drain your HWH every month or two.
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Old 02-02-2013, 02:42 PM   #22
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I wonder how many small water leaks exist in many rv's as well as Airstreams, some unknown and some puddling on the ground beneath, due to these closed water systems.
Note that it is closed even when hooked up to campground supplies due to their anti-backflow valves.

We had a plumbing leak shortly after buying this new Airstream that came through to drip onto the ground. I was sure at the time that it was from a poorly crimped pex fitting, so I recrimped it slightly. As I think about it, it may have been at least partially the fault of expansion in the closed water system because it did not appear until we had been hooked to campground water for a week or two, plenty of time for the water heater air bubble to be absorbed or discharged.

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Old 02-02-2013, 04:02 PM   #23
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I'm sure many do have small undiscovered leaks. I am so anal and interested in maintenance that there is no square inch I don't see at least annually, and probably more often than that. I also have installed little battery operated water alarms (6 of them). I locate them in the common rot areas I see here on the forums.

I was thinking about the air pocket absorption thing. I think that it would be good practice for folks who keep water in the system for extended periods of time to occasionally: 1) turn off the pump switch and 2) open the relief valve on the HWH and don't close it until water no longer runs out of it. This would restore your air pocket and prevent pressure buildup due to heating water. If you have a drain valve installed, you could drop the level down even further (to the level of the HW outlet pipe to the faucets.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:40 PM   #24
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What is the maintenance on the Shurflo accumulator tank. You state the tank can be pressurized up to 125psi but 30psi works fine. Do you have to use a compressor or hand pump to pressurize the tank? Do you have to recharge the tank periodically? What about winterizing with one of these tanks?

If you develop a leak somewhere and you have one of these tanks will the water system leak a lot more water before your pump "burps"?

The pump can be mounted any where on the cold water circuit?

If I get one of these I better learn how to deal with PEX. Were you able to install this without cutting existing water hoses to fit the braided hoses?

Thanks

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Old 05-02-2013, 10:58 PM   #25
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If the bladder is healthy and has no pinholes, the pressure maintenance is a rare thing. My previous SOB accumulator as well as 2 houses with wells and pressure tanks, I'd check the pressure every year or two....even then, adding air was not an every time thing.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:12 PM   #26
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Kelvin, I installed the tank in January at standard pressure, used it every day since, and the pressure is still there. Whether 30 psi is enough or too much depends somewhat on your shore hookup and water pump pressure, but has worked for us wherever we hooked up and with our pump.

If you install it as shown in my photo, there is no winterization for it, it will just drain with the rest of the plumbing.

Yes, mount it anywhere in the cold water system after the pump.

To install it, I removed the cold water supply from the bath faucet and attached it to one side of the accumulator. Then I bought a 24" faucet supply line and run it from the other side of the accumulator back to the cold water bath faucet. Simple. I think it's described better above.

This accumulator only holds about a pint of water under pressure, but it does take up some of the pressure variations in the system and makes it operate more smoothly.

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Old 05-03-2013, 06:59 PM   #27
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Doug, I just returned from 4 plus weeks in my new trailer. I can report that your suggestion to install the accumulator was a good one. Where I most noticed this was in the shower....water flow was very even. Thanks so much to you for posting this suggestion, it was easy to install. (Oh, I did validate the correct air pressure before I closed the access panel!)
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:06 PM   #28
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Hi--I was just reading this thread. I'm not sure I understand much of what was said.

But I'm curious, we just purchased a 2013 Flying Cloud. Do you know if this issue was addressed in the new model? If not, should I take care of this now and install one? Or have the dealer install one?

Thanks
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