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Old 09-12-2019, 09:30 AM   #1
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Valrico , Florida
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72' Argosy - belly 2x4 supports in the way of tanks

Hi everyone,

I've got a 72' argosy 22 footer that I'm currently in the process of coverting to a center bath. I've already done all the measurements and there's plenty of room, but my concern is that when I look from underneath, I have these pesky 2x4 supports in the way. As you can see from the attached pictures (sorry they're upside down but you get the idea), they run the full length of the rig. I was initially thinking I would simply cut them away in the area where the black and gray tanks will go, but I wanted to see if anyone thought that would affect the structural stability of the floor at all.

I also thought that rather than cutting them away, I could do the opposite and build up the subfloor section with more 2x4 where the tank will interface with the subfloor so that the tank sits flush, but I wasn't sure if that would pose a problem with finding a flange downpipe long enough to make it into the tanks with the added depth.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:44 AM   #2
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Why do you have 2x4's running the length of your trailer? That subfloor should be bolted directly to the frame (in many, many places).
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:54 AM   #3
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Sounds like the floor has been replaced. I would not use wood beams to support the floor on an Argosy or Airstream. That floor is way to new looking to be original.


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Old 09-12-2019, 10:56 AM   #4
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1976 Argosy 28
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I would agree with the post that say that the floor has been replaced but it also looks like the frame has been replaced. I have a 76 and it has the typical Airstream frame where most of the left-right supports are 'webed' and not solid.
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Old 09-12-2019, 12:26 PM   #5
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That's exactly how she came to me when we acquired her last year. Honestly though, I've read on here that some of the older Argosy rigs had 2x4's running the entire length and some later years had metal beams in the same manner. Check it out below:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...or-121887.html

The floor rests directly on the two main steel runners that go front to back, but the transverse supports dont make it all the way up to the subfloor, so the 2x4s bridge that gap.

We've driven her 4-5k miles so far and she's done great stability-wise, plus the floor feels solid from the inside.

Honestly, I'm not as worried about the fact it's wood, I'm just wondering which method that I previously listed would be the best for mounting the tanks since one method would involve cutting out the 2X4 supports where the tanks would go.
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Old 09-12-2019, 12:27 PM   #6
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Forgot to mention, the floor looks "too new to be original" because I sanded it all and epoxied/poly'd it for protection when I decided to get rid of the belly covering
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:03 PM   #7
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I assume you epoxied the 2x4's too, but if not, make sure those get sealed up good. Too late now for this next sentence, but the issue with sealing the underside of the subfloor is that water and vapor from the *inside* of the trailer doesn't have any way of getting out. It's a nit-pick, and in "real world" scenarios won't likely be an issue, but worth mentioning.


You also say you've "gotten rid of" the belly covering. Do you mean you won't be putting it back? If so, you might think about putting at least *something* (not wood) over the belly to protect the subfloor as well as your tanks. I don't run any utilities along the edge of the frame and always make the edge wrap permanent (riveted to the frame and outriggers), but then I run pipes, tubes, wires etc. in the center and use smaller removable panels so I can access everything down the middle for maintenance.


To answer your initial question though... I wouldn't cut the 2x4's. They are likely fastened well to the subfloor (hopefully!), so it probably won't make *that much* structural difference, but having them intact (not cut) will lend strength and rigidity. I would probably shim the tank with more 2x material if you're wanting it snug and flush underneath. It will add a minor amount of weight and steal a tiny bit of ground clearance, but it will also add quite a bit of strength. Plus, you could run straps between the 2x supports and subfloor to help hold up the tanks.
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:14 PM   #8
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Perfect, thanks KidJedi! I was leaning more towards using more 2x material to make it flush, so I'm glad to see I'm not the only one thinking that.

Yeah, I sealed up the 2x4's as well. You know, the belly has been uncovered for all 4-5k miles we've driven the camper and it still looks as clean as can be. I totally get the protection factor, but after having the replace the entire back-end (was completely rotted from previous owner) subfloor and one of the cross members, I actually kind of like being able to roll under it on my creeper and take a peek at what's going on. Maybe I'll change my tune once all my work is done on it, but for now at least, it's easier just keeping it off.
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmoe128 View Post
Yeah, I sealed up the 2x4's as well. You know, the belly has been uncovered for all 4-5k miles we've driven the camper and it still looks as clean as can be.

But it only takes *one time* for it to *not* be OK.



I agree that it's nice to be able to check things out, but that's why I make smaller access panels.
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Old 09-13-2019, 02:03 PM   #10
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Like Kidjedi said, let the tanks hang a little low but you need to cover that belly soon.
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