1976 Excella 31' Plumbing

[Mr. Decent]

Hello All, this is my first post here. A little background, Last Winter i restored a 1960 18' 'Traveler' (as it's called on the original electrical plan). It turned out great. Now I am working on a 1976 31' Excella. Many things in this trailer that i did not have to deal with in my little 18 footer, ie hot water, two sinks, shower etc. So, I've been dealing with repairing burst pipes for the past few days, Every time I make a repair, new leaks pop up.
My main questin right now is... when I have pressurized the system for a few minutes to test, the kitchen and bathroom sinks, when all open ran for a minute and then stopped, for instance today the system was presurrized and the shower was running water. The leak is post shower valve since when I close the shower valce the leak stops, ok, but the kitchen and bathroom sinks still didn't run even though open and had run for a minute. Any thoughts on what would have stopped them after being open? Debris in the lines or? Also the hot water tank is seeping water in the rear so guess that will have to be replaced. Thanks for any thoughts. I am sure I will have many questions on this project.

[CharlieE]

Mr. Decent,
It's not unusual when flushing antifreeze out of water lines in spring, for sediment to plug the screens on those faucets. Airstream for years has used Moen faucets equipped with aerators and screens. Try unscrewing the aerators and see if the screens are plugged. I don't know if that is calcium or lime deposits or if it is corrosion from inside the hot water tank. I think the amount varies with the water from the location where the trailer is being used. If one simply drains the water lines or drains and blows them out with air, the screens often plug in spring when you introduce water into the system. I believe the majority of that sediment comes from the hot water tank. Iwould have suggested that you remove the drain plug from the hot water tank and when hooked up to city water allow the water to flush out the tank and look at what comes out of there. But that won't be necessary if you have to replace the water heater. CharlieE

[Mr. Decent]

Thanks, CharlieE, when I first pressurized the system the drain valve on the HWH was open and looked clear for the short time I had it open. I will check and clear the aerators and try again tomorrow.

[CharlieE]

Mr. Decent,
The pressure regulator is mounted near the top of the hot water tank, while the collection of crud is on the bottom. To get the best flushing action I suggest you remove the plug at the bottom. CharrlieE

[Mr. Decent]

Thanks again CharlieE, the sediment issue in the aerator was the solution for the Bathroom sink Although, the Kohler faucet in the kitchen is stuck closed. I have dissasembled the top of the faucet and determined that the lines are clear up to the counter and the aerator is clear. It seems as though the valve mechanism is not pulling the stopper up to allow the water to flow through, anybody have any experience with this? Also the Moen faucet in the shower is leaking from the valve to the tap, which is oh, so frustrating, it's only like 5" but is behind the molded shower body...I don't see any way to repair it but to remove the shower body and or tub. Any suggestions? Thanks again.

[Mr. Decent]

Fortunaely, I was able to get to the shower valve through the cabinet to top right of shower and tub. I removed the shelves from the cabinet and was able to remove the spigot I then cut the pipes in a place I could reach to sweat them back in. There was a burst in one of the lines going in as well as on a short piece going out that was just capped and not in use.

[easyride]

You say there is a capped line coming off the shower valve,this tells me you have a replacement valve the moen valve from AS,only had h-c & shower head ,that may end up being a real bugger to winterize.That line was intended for tub spout,try to cut it off as close to the valve as possible ,that will make it easier to blow out,or get full of antifreeze.Dave

[Mr. Decent]

Thanks Dave, i suspected as much, looks like there have been repairs done before. The capped line was previously cut off just a 1/2" from the valve and it still burst! I don't think anyone ever bothered to Winterize this poor old girl...but I am giving her some love now. So I'll make this repair and hope not for to have any bursts from the Shower to the Kitchen, then, I am still having issues with the Kohler valve in the Kithchen not opening.

[easyride]

Sometimes it`s better to just chuck the old valve and get a new one ,Kohler cartridges can get pretty expensive sometimes,and if it was Home Depots Kohler retail line it may be impossible to find parts.Enough to make a plumber drink,well that`s the excuse I use.
Dave

[Mr. Decent]

yea, I will probably replace the Kitchen Valve, really want a nice Bar Tap there anyway (since plumbers like to drink , it's just the budget issue, you know...

[Phil Gobie]

You may find that a replacement is difficult because of space constraints with the sinks they used. The Moen valves are very rebuild-able for cheap. Moen will even send the parts for free. It is a good valve and replacing the entire valve may be much more expensive and difficult. contact Moen and make the repairs. Best of luck Phil Send me a PM and I will walk you through it if you want.

[Mr. Decent]

Hi Phil and thank you for the input. The Moen is in the shower and don't think it needs replacing, I can repair it. The valve I am thinking to replace is in the Kitchen and is a Kohler.

[Mr. Decent]

Ok, so I pulled the Shower valve anf fixed the bursts in the pipes around it, the valve needs to be replaced, do any of you know of a current Moen or other product valve that will fit the '76 31' Excella?
Thanks for your help

[easyride]

The current pressure balance valve [moen] will fit in the same hole,however it will have the 2 outlets,if you have room ,install a diverter tub spout,that way the water will drain out of that
outlet,if you don`t have room for the tub spout,i would run a drain line to the trunk with a ball valve to winterize it.good thing about pressure bal.valve is temp. Will stay the same when someone decides to run k.s. Faucet and you are in shower,only downside is if it is not used it will freeze up and not give you and hot water.on second thought i would probably go with kohler ,we haven`t encountered that problem with them.hope i didn`t just confuse you more. Dave

[juel]

Perhaps I'm missing something here; however, I'm not a plumber but we replaced our kitchen faucet with a bar faucet we bought at Lowe's. Don't even know the brand name, but the holes matched up and it went in without a problem. Maybe we were just too dumb to know to worry about it. Been in for about 3 years without a problem. Could not change out the bathroom sink one without taking the whole sink and cabinet out, so just cleaned that one up and left it. Now when you get to changing out the toilet, let me know how that works for you. We replaced the one in our 76 Sovereign last week end but haven't turned on the water yet. I can't for the life of me see how this High Profile Thetford will not leak. Guess I'll know when Spring hits Oklahoma and I turn on the water.

[Mr. Decent]

Thanks for the input Dave and Juel. Juel, the question of fit is not regarding the Kitchen faucet, I look forward to putting a nice bar tap there. The tight fit comes into play for the shower valve but it seems there are a few products out there that will fit.
Tim

[Mr. Decent]

Found a current Moen, Model L82691, shower only that looks to fit just fine. $78 at lowes. Just went with a simple faucet for the Kitchen, although gonna have to cut two new holes. I can't believe those old Moens and Kohlers were soldered right into the fixture, no threaded adapter, argh.

[easyride]

Mr.Decent,that # is not in my moen book,it`s only made for retail sales,is it a pressure balance or old style?? Dave

[Mr. Decent]

Dave, it is pressure balance. Tim

[Mr. Decent]

That new Moen fits great! Better than the last half #&^#%&% replacement. And she's holding pressure!!! Woo Hoo