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Old 01-20-2015, 04:02 PM   #181
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Picked up steel today in Everett, WA. Started to see the frame straighten out after removing part of Click image for larger version

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Old 01-21-2015, 02:37 PM   #182
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'65 GT 20' my winter project

Welder thinks we use squares to replace the closed up area at frame where water collected and rusted interior of tongue Click image for larger version

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Your thoughts
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:19 PM   #183
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Yes, or just close off that whole section of channel and make it into tubing. Adding metal is good on old frames that are going to be carrying a heavier load with holding tanks and all our tech stuff.

-steve
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:30 PM   #184
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The frame was off level by a whole inch because of that weak front. We are now at 1/8. Pretty good.
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:17 PM   #185
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The A frame on my 66 is boxed in until the A frame enters the body. i think this is very important. I think you cut some of this open so you could repair, replace the rusted sections. I would recommend you build it like the factory did. Also, leave room for your trailer wiring harness access.

I'm glad you are getting your frame level. I'm a little concerned about mine as I see maybe a half inch difference between level floor and the A frame channels.

Here is a picture of my 66 A-frame inside the body at the wire harness access spot, curb side. You can see the boxed in C channel before the wires and after the wires. Square channels are stronger than C channels.

David
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:19 PM   #186
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I think it needs to be boxed in too.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:17 PM   #187
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The grey tank went in today Click image for larger version

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ID:	230980and is supported from the bottom so it won't bulge when full. Also for easy removal in case of catastrophe Click image for larger version

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ID:	230982. Figured out the new floor drain, plumbing and pea drain since I will not put back the fiberglass formed bath. No sink in bath. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-24-2015, 05:23 AM   #188
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Milestone! It's going back together. You'll be camping in it before long. Like maybe a year or two! : ) Seriously, it does take a long time to put these things back together, especially when we engineer the thing as we go.

Now back to polishing. Ugh!

David
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:28 AM   #189
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I agree with boxing in the frame, but leave some drain holes at the bottom so water can get out.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:37 AM   #190
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I didn't box in as he would have had to the the whole thing off and fabricate. I was pretty irritated and stressed about possible buckling for sure. Click image for larger version

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He reinforced the base of the A at the frame with triangle plates
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Old 01-24-2015, 03:36 PM   #191
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Was your A-frame boxed in originally? My 66 is but I don't know how a 65 was built. Airstream was always making changes. You can kinda, sorta see it in this photo.

If it was boxed, then I should think you would want to duplicate the original design.

It was never confirmed with photos, but a fellow Airstreamer reported a bent A frame due to over tightened weight distribution bars. I just couldn't figure out how that could happen. But it was said that the mid 2000 trailers 19' and under had C channels for the A-frame instead of square channels. I do know square channels are stronger than C channels. I believe I beams are stronger yet.

David
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:03 PM   #192
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Yes it looked like that but not a solid weld. The piece was spot welded on in staggered fashion. Tube would have been a can do but more more more time and money money money
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:17 PM   #193
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Before you start laying the floor and when you start to install the belly pan, make sure the frame is flat. My '63 frame sagged 4" under its own weight and twisted like a pretzel. Bolting down the plywood to a twisted, bowed frame will guarantee it stays that way. Likewise, riveting a new belly pan to a non-flat frame will keep it twisted.

I have had to add weight to one corner during the process to assure the thing was flat.

Ideally we would have a big flat table to set the frame on during the process...I m lacking one of those...
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:03 AM   #194
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HiHoAgRV describes the "semi-monocoque" design very well. The frame is flimsy by itself. it gets a lot stronger with the subfloor well bolted to it. It gets stronger again with the shell bolted to it. And the belly pan adds some more strength. Monocoque construction allows high strength and light weight.

I made a new platform for my scaffolding yesterday. I used aluminum 3/4 by 1/8 angle welded like a picture frame with cross members every 12". It was real flimsy and I thought oh oh. Then I bolted the 5/8 plywood floor to the frame and the thing gained good strength. The frame keeps the plywood from sagging, and the plywood keeps the frame flat.

Monocoque. Kinda like an egg shell. All tied together it is very strong for its weight.

thumbelina, I get the more more more time and more more more money. I think most Airstream renovators have a real appreciation of the "slippery slope" saying "how I spent 30k on a 2k trailer" as Panama Red suggests.

More polishing today for me. I'll be standing on my new platform at least while grinding away the hours.

David
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:03 AM   #195
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Hi -

I've been off the forums for a few months so I missed your thread - great work so far! Mine is sitting in a barn far, far away for a few months - I miss it. Glad to see you are smarter than I and are hiring help at the right times - I was really stubborn about that and it cost me dearly in terms of time, in the long run. Not to mention this work is really hard on the body - hands in particular. The tools are just plain heavy and built for man-hands, not girl-hands.

I sandblasted my frame also and was glad for it - but I should have waited to paint it until after I was SURE all my welding was done. Some of my interior mods required frame modification, but I didn't know that at the time because my interior plan wasn't in place. My trailer had extra outriggers at certain points and none at others. I would make sure there is an outrigger at each floor seam so that the seam edge is supported the entire width - mine didn't have an outrigger at one seam and I wish I had noticed that earlier.

Kathy
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:00 AM   #196
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'65 GT 20' my winter project

Tuesday I am taking the frame to Ryan's RV. There is a possibility Inland RV may not have sold the proper axle to me. I know he had my serial number. But the way the shocks mount and the lug bolts are positioned it doesn't make sense it will work. Then they can look at my frame and give me a last opinion.

Stressing but I'm going to let go and take the experts advice and have them charge me a lot to give me a peace of mind
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:03 AM   #197
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ID:	231079 the triangle weld at the spot where the A meets the box was weak due to rust. Thoughts?
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Old 01-25-2015, 02:07 PM   #198
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VTS (Vintage Trailer Supply) has silicone remover, it is a white plastic tube with purple lettering, and it almost seems like a clear glue that comes out, but it has a chemical reaction to the silicone, and after 15-20 minutes it turns the silicone to a runny mess, then you just wipe off. Gets most of the major stuff off. After that I uses some 3M discs ( Check out aerowoods thread), he recommended them. They attach to a die grinder, and are star shaped plastic discs, I run 3 or 4 at a time, and they strip anything right off. Good for silicone and what not. The black stuff I've been told was a sealant for the inside, although maybe also to attach the insulation. I just left my alone. BTW, I have a '65 I'm restoring now, interior is out, and I'm must about done with my roof, then on to floor. I'll post the link on the next post.

Thanks
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Old 01-25-2015, 02:19 PM   #199
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I used a shotput To reshape my banana wraps that I bought of craigslist to roll around inside them, and then I polished.... they didn't end up perfect, but pretty darn good. Here is my thing http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ion-89528.html, 65 Globetrotter floor on restoration.

THanks
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:49 PM   #200
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Hi, A lot of people have difficulty mounting the shocks to their new axles. Some have the shock mount re-welded, some make special bolts. Dexter is different than Axis. it is not unusual to have to alter the shock mounting scheme. Our trailers have vertical shocks. In 69 Airstream went with a more horizontal shock mounting angle. My original shock mounting bracket shown below. My new Axis axles came with the right shock mount, but I had to drill new frame mounting holes.

I looked and found a picture of my A-frame attachment to the frame rails. There is a front cross member from rail to rail in the front under the "plate". There are some angle brackets mounted at an angle between the frame rails and the A frame. And there is this short outrigger that supports the subfloor in the front curve. It appears the 66 has more structure at the A frame than your 65 for some reason. Take a look as it might help you. Again I don't know how similar the 65s were to the 66s.

David
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