I have the "rivet removal tool" also. The tool is designed to locate around the base of the 5/32 diameter rivet head. The tool is spring loaded. Tighten the tool in your drill. Pull on the tool and see how it gets longer and extends beyond the drill bit. Now locate the tool over a rivet. Push the tool down around the rivet head and hold it tight with one hand. Now start the drill and drill out the rivet right on center. The drill will spin inside the tool. The outside of the tool does not spin. No need to center punch the rivets, which is hard to do as you have found. The tool locates the drill right over the center of the rivet. Presto! Rivet be Gone! Booohahaha!
The pop rivets have a hole in the middle. You don't need the tool for those. They are used a lot in the interior of our Airstreams, and the belly pan. Pop rivets are "blind" rivets. Buck rivets are solid, strong, but take two people to install. One on the outside with the riveting tool, and one on the inside with the "bucking bar".
You probably knew all this already. Just trying to be helpful...
Yes, a clean shop is a safe shop. There is less chance of slip or trip. Think safety all the time. "How can I get hurt doing this activity?"
I'm scraping the sealant off my roof vents. I think it was factory original in 1966
. It wasn't silicone, but a good old fashioned calk. Now I can seal them up again. I really like the vents in our old trailers. It's neat the way they work.