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Old 11-26-2014, 10:08 AM   #29
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Miracle!
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Old 11-30-2014, 11:21 PM   #30
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Today I got the gaucho and old furnace out. Ran into trouble with screws on base to floor. Wound up using a wood chisel, rubber mallet and a crowbar to lift up frame.

The tile was not even on the plywood anymore. Put my asbestos mask on and wet down the floor and removed all I could.

Throwing in a picture of my helper. Gemma is a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.

Next is getting the gaucho out.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-01-2014, 05:22 AM   #31
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I'm glad your doggie is in a command position to direct your every activity. I have trouble with those old, dirty, rusty wood screws too. Sometimes a little shot of penetrating oil will help. Sometimes I have to drill them out.

And I found my old floor tiles were not adhered to the floor near as well as I had expected. Maybe the adhesives were not as good then as they are now. It didn't take long to get to the subfloor at all for me. Now you can see exactly where the water damage might be. Mine was under the toilet in the rear bath.

Keep in mind, the "tear out" goes about 10 times faster than the "rebuild". There is lots of weekends ahead. Work safe.

David
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:44 AM   #32
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Today I am in that phase where you decide to I gently pound out dents or do I get new aluminum sheets? I read a thread or two or twenty on the subject. What exactly is the kind of aluminum to buy for a 65 GT if I were to make some new exterior pieces? And where or how?
I am in Seattle.
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:37 PM   #33
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Your 65 Globetrotter was built with 2042-T3 Alclad at .032 thick. I purchased some for my 66 Trade Wind. I like Airparts in Kansas City for my aluminum. They also sell the belly pan material which is 5052 I believe at .026 thick. Nice folks there. You can order on the internet from their website. The Alclad is a bunch expensive, like $17 a linear foot 48" wide. The belly pan material is much cheaper. I purchased about 4 running feet of Alclad just for my patches over the new furnace and old water heater and a patch by the door.

There are many other suppliers of aluminum sheeting.

I believe the dent in the roof will come out pretty nicely by rolling, maybe with a basketball? The banana dent on the side can be made better too. I have had some luck with paintless dent repair glue tabs and pulling from the outside. I have had better luck with a sand bag on the outside, and dollies with soft hammer blows on the inside forcing the material to move slowly. I have had little success with hail dents.

Hope this helps you...

David
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:45 PM   #34
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Hi David,

2042-T3 Alclad at .032 thick!


THANK YOU!

Several people have told me to use the partially deflated basketball trick. I wonder how much I can repair and not be too concerned about being perfect. It doesn't have to be but I want to do the job once and well.

It doesn't hurt to try all your suggestions right?

Shipping rolled aluminum sheets- yikes. I live near BOEING! Surely I can find the grade. Which was what I didn't know. The grade type for replacement.

Thank you for that!
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:15 PM   #35
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I found a great location for Aluminum in Seattle Price shopped and it is an awesome price! I sent quote requests to some other local suppliers that did not specifically have the 2042-T3 at .32 available.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...915&top_cat=60
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:31 AM   #36
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Progress today was the removal of my water tank, the gaucho, some copper lines and alot of screws. Discovered some bits of rot as expected.

What I found was that I am a big chicken when it comes to the battery. I wanted to get it out. the positive and negative attached to the power box would not come off the battery itself. I really wanted to cut it. But I didn't. I left it.

Showing the rotted doors. Keeping the hardware of course.
Finding it difficult to get the refrigerator and stove to even budge.

Calling in help this weekend from my men friends.

I may start. my first rivet removal using the items in the Kit from Vintage Trailer Supply
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Old 12-04-2014, 04:03 AM   #37
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Have you removed the screws holding the stove and fridge in place? The stove is a "slide in" that is "hanging" from your counter top. Look for the screws fastening the stove to the counter top both on top and in the front along the oven opening. The fridge is attached to the floor. You might have to access the screws through the fridge pilot light and vent door on the outside of the trailer. You will also disconnect the propane lines. Your propane tanks are shut off and removed from the trailer.

Put some penetrating oil on the battery terminals, then try again. If you have the terminal clamp bolts nice and loose but they still won't lift off, then you may need a battery terminal puller. It's just a simple little 10 buck tool that mechanically pulls the terminal off the battery post.

David
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:41 AM   #38
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Hi David, I have unscrewed every darn one I can find. The two seem to be encrusted.

Today i am going to put some more force into it. I tell you what, it is some hard work and weird positions I have put myself in to do this work.

That battery advice looks promising! WIll stop at the auto parts store on way in to work on the Airstream later today.

Excited to start the panel removal.

I can't believe what a blessing it is to have the shop. Everything I am removing either goes in a pile or to my friends garbage trailer. The heat is on and I had a friend come visit and bring me dinner and wine last night.

This is turning into a lot of joy and not too painful because of these extras.

Thank you as always for your help David!
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:37 AM   #39
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More detail photos below

Advice for weekend work:

Removal of the bathroom and the end cap cabinet and the whole cap.


https://plus.google.com/110427931293...ts/NrXkn5vb3H3
https://plus.google.com/110427931293...ts/P9htpWebbDL
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:45 PM   #40
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I'd sure second David's rec of Airparts for your source for aluminum for skins. For your belly pan, Alaskan Copper is the place to go in Seattle. You can just go there and pick it up.

Cheers,
Steve
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:15 PM   #41
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If the battery terminals are on top (3/4" dia. lugs) you can tap the side of the terminal away from the lug with a hammer to loosen it. The area between the lug and the end where the cable goes in.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:23 PM   #42
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'65 GT 20' my winter project

I didn't try Alaskan copper. Will check them too. The place in Ballard called Online Metals had 2024 T3. Thanks for the advice
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