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Old 02-22-2015, 06:23 PM   #267
Rivet Master

2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,608
Believe me, I have torn out many a 'first try' at stuff. Plumbing, electrical, woodworking, stain and varnish, you name it, I've screwed it up at least once. That's how you learn stuff. I've been doing stuff for over 55 years now, and I still learn new things. Don't beat yourself up. Sometimes the second try comes out even better.

Rich, putting his wise old man hat on...😄

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'The Silver HamShack' (2007 International 22FB CCD 75th Aniversary model)
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:25 PM   #268
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 342
I'm only one step ahead of you and just around the corner ya know.
Just call if you need advice.

So. I almost did what you did with the wheel wells b'cuz the "exact replacements" were not so we both did the logical thing. Get custom.

However, it looks like shifting your floor around at this stage may be difficult. Sooo
Leave the floor in. Get alum. L bar and cap off the wood with it and bed the dickens out of it with 5200 then mount the wheel wells on top of the L bar.....then you are back to where you aught to be with an added 5/8 high wheel well. No big deal/

I like what you've done to seal your door sill. I'm doing the same thing at the moment. In our case you have 3 SST machine bolts running down through the sill, through the plywood and through the steel chassis support. Bad combination in an area that gets wet.

I'm looking very closely at this and see some design flaws. I'm going to slide a very thin sheet of plastic/rubber at the two interfaces and slather the SST screws in Tefgel (marine store). I am also going to get rid of the step and cover it just like the rest of the belly wrap. By the time I'm done I'll be riding higher and the step won't be a correct height....I'll need a 2 step-er.

Keep the faith.'

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Old 02-22-2015, 08:20 PM   #269
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Del I adore you! Would love help. Just don't want to impact your schedule too. I am regrouping with a new crew as well. Interviewing tomorrow night. They have tests to take now with test metal. Thanks all. I'll get the heck over myself. Dena
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Old 02-23-2015, 05:30 AM   #270
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
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Hi tumbelina, You are just experiencing the "highs and lows" of any big project. We have all experienced it. It takes a little time and then the solution to the problem will come.

I agree with Del. I should think you can fabricate a "skirt" that attaches to the inner wheel wells and provides moisture and debris protection. Maybe it is "L" shaped and is riveted to the frame and outriggers. Maybe it is stainless steel or some other strong but thin material. Then you can "undercoat" the whole wheel well and be good to go.

Or, you and your workers might devise a better plan. But I'm sure these is a way to get this area reworked.

No problem...

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Old 02-23-2015, 08:06 AM   #271
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1962 26' Overlander
Jackson , Wyoming
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 184

Once I got the shell back on I took my trailer to LineX and had bed-liner sprayed inside my wheel wells. Super-sealed that way.

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Old 02-23-2015, 08:09 AM   #272
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hanalei, /Chino Valley , Hawaii / Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 926
I'm feeling like Dena could use a little levity right about now.

Pete Carroll, former head coach of the Seattle Seahawks, is reported to be very near to signing on as a special consultant to The Pope in Vatican City. The Pope looks to recruit Carroll to be a spokesman for the Catholic Church because he is the first man in history that made 100 million people jump up and yell "Jesus Christ!" at the same time.

Hang in there glampergirl!

Cheers Richard
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Old 02-23-2015, 08:50 AM   #273
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1974 31' Sovereign
Obrien , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2012
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'65 GT 20' my winter project

Can I dive in here for two quick comments? Ok, thanks!

First, this thread makes me "trip" every time I'm scrolling down the thread list, because I read it as '65 GTO EVERY! STINKING! TIME! And, I think, "Cool, a goat..." and then realize it's this thread again, which while awesome in it's own right, is not about old muscle cars...

Secondly, awesome freaking work!!! I wish I'd have fiberglassed the floor sections I replaced. But, if that wheel well gets to you, and you just can't live with it anymore, I will gladly store the camper for you after the rebuild is finished, and even take her out for a spin on occasion, just because I'm just so darned nice like that. She'll be in climate controlled goodness... think about it...

-Red, voting rivets for bellypan...
Somebody ought to clean these windows. There is a tremendous buildup of gook all over them...
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Old 02-23-2015, 11:39 AM   #274
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All of you are great. Thanks so much. Here is where I am at. Large head rivets all over except at grey water tank. Will coat the wheel well with the rhino like coating. The exposed wood from floor I have the flat bar and more 3m 5200 to coat with.

The belly pan is a bitch. So many hours with very little progress. I used 5052 so you know that doesn't bend well. We couldn't get the grip from clecos so we used screws to shape and hammer the edge of the rear belly pan. There is one inch flat bar covering this section in the photo.

Good news I have a complete work crew turnover. Retired navy AP coming in to finish belly pan and work towards dropping shell back down. Target Saturday shell on.

Banana wraps going to a hot rod shop today. Windows polished and glazing outsourced this week.

March 2 everything comes to a screeching halt as I start a new job. Lots of travel. Will be back to only weekends.

Taking a half day off.

Thanks to all the great support. I don't feel alone. It's just part of the process isn't it?

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Old 02-23-2015, 01:49 PM   #275
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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I too missed the correct location on the rt wheel well. I had to break the floor sealant all loose in order to reposition the well. It ate up a great deal of time to position properly but the outcome was worth the time
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:50 PM   #276
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1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
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One caution on the new wheel well location, being 5/8 higher will probably make the shell rivet holes miss the wheel well flange. Check it out before you get completely to the 'oh crap' point. It is possible to rivet some aluminum to the wheel well, let it hang down an inch or so. Then drill new holes into it that line up with the old ones in the shell.
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly
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Old 02-23-2015, 03:53 PM   #277
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1965 26' Overlander
Tulsa , Oklahoma
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What color is the frame? I really like it!
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Old 02-23-2015, 05:48 PM   #278
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Silver POR-15
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Old 02-23-2015, 05:53 PM   #279
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Third hire has arrived. He seems to be much more competent working with the aluminum. Wants to undo the corner. I paid six hours to a guy already for this below. It is still held on with the screws. Not completed.

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Old 02-24-2015, 07:36 AM   #280
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1962 26' Overlander
Jackson , Wyoming
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 184
I could show you pictures of my several attempts at the corners, as could most of us who have done this vintage. They. Are. A. Pain. And they were for Airstream as well, or they wouldn't have kept modifying that belly/corner design!! If you re-do the one in the picture that's dimpled, the fewer cuts the better - it's counter-intuitive, but the material wrinkles less with fewer cuts than what you used - been there. I ended up with a big dimple in front on one side. Doesn't leak, but it's not perfect. No time to fix that one, had to be gone, but it will bug me forever. Each cut weakens the integrity of the metal and creates potential for a dimple. The curve of the new one likely won't match your original ones exactly because you are using 5052 vs their 2024 and the old metal is floppy by now and behaves differently. It also looks like you used screws to attach the wrap to the channel - the heads are going to interfere with the shell dropping down and create big gaps (leaks).

It's horribly, horribly discouraging to have to re-do things, but it's part of the process, it really is. I screwed up worse than you and I had to tear my entire belly pan off, and insulation, and plumbing, to re-gain access to the frame through those damn wheel wells to do the welding I should have done earlier. There were lots of tears. I was demoralized. It sucked bad. And I was working under the trailer. Super, super fun. Hours? I re-did MONTHS of work. Solid now though.

I stopped by a street in town yesterday where two guys are tearing into a 1971 out on the corner, circular saws in hand, and I had to just shake my head - they cheerfully agree they don't have a clue what they are doing. But onward they go.


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