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Old 05-02-2006, 12:39 PM   #1
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Calgary , Alberta
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'65 Globetrotter Project

Hey I just got a 65 globetrotter and the floor was rotted and the furniture was shot and the appliances all original but broken.

so... here I go, to re-do this vintage trailer.
goals:
1.- replace the floor
2.- paint the chassis (before installing the floor of course)
3.- install the new appliances, water systems and LP systems
4.- replace wheels and service brakes and axle
5.- redeisign interior (I would like to have an interior like the new bambi)

Any suggestions in where to allocate a new and bigger black water tank?

any advice where I can buy rims and tires?

any advice how to replace the floor?

What do you think of the floor plan?

should I leave the original floor plan?


Cheers
Regards
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:52 PM   #2
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I assume those aren't pictures of the trailer you brought home, because they look beautiful

I like the floorplan, but I don't like the stove next to the bed, and far away from the sink and counter. I think you might want to keep those side by side, so you have food prep space next to the stove, and swap the fridge with the stove. Keep in mind you want to keep the weight evenly balanced between the sides of the trailer.

When you replace the floor you might have to do some repairs to the frame anyway, and then you can reinforce it and fit in mounting for a grey and black water tank. In the GT the black water tank is probably above the floor with the toilet mounted on top. There have been many threads about adding tanks to vintage units, so you might want to search around. Lots of threads about floor replacement as well. I did half the floor on my trailer. Many here have done the whole thing!

Welcome to the forum, it should be interesting to see how this project progresses!
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Old 05-02-2006, 03:54 PM   #3
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Looks Good. I've always toyed with the idea of picking up another GT or Safari, getting rid of the rear bath and replacing it with a bed.
I don't think the stove next to the bed would be a problem since I am sure that there would be a partition wall between the two.
My personal preference would be to eliminate the shower, move the toilet and gain a cabinet. We find we end up using the shower for storage anyway.
Keep us posted,
Tom.
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:09 PM   #4
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I wasn't worried about the stove from a safety issue, just that it's nice to have some countertop nearby for food prep. Obviously, it's just a matter of turning around in an Airstream, so it's not like the stove is far away But I would prefer to have some countertop around it to work on.

If you travel with a companion of the female sort, be sure to get her opinion of bathroom layout before you commit. We ladies can be very particular about our bathroom preferences! If I was going to eliminate anything, first to go would be the redundant sink in the bathroom. In such a small trailer, I think it's silly to have two sinks within a step of each other. Second would probably be the shower, although we have used ours when boondocking, and it was nice to have at the time. But now we have gotten used to using camp showers when available.
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:00 PM   #5
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If the photos are of your trailer, you should leave it as is. Any modification would reduce the value considerably and it appears to be in very nice condition. Concentrate your efforts on the exterior. Changing the bathroom with it's fiberglass walls and ceiling would be a challenge. Plumbing the new bath and holding tanks would be a real puzzle. If you like the new Bambi so well, keep trading vintage Airstreams and you'll soon make enough to buy one. Nice vintage Globetrotters are hard to find. Don't ruin your investment by making such drastic changes.
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:31 PM   #6
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Or maybe pick up a '69 Globetrotter. The '69 has a layout very similar to what you've sketched. I know, if it were only that easy... But I agree with the concept of fixing up and trading up. Finding a '69 might just save you quite a bit of time, money, and energy. Just my $0.02

Happy travels

-Todd
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Old 05-23-2006, 09:50 AM   #7
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1978 23' Safari
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Hi
I'm in Calgary also and just bought a 79 23' Safari,but this whole A/S life is new to me.If you want to get in contact maybe we could share a lttle info.Feel free to email me if you like.
Ross
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Old 05-23-2006, 10:18 AM   #8
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Gt

I have a 65GT that had the same layout and I found it to be challenging when dealing with more than two people and a dog, so I changed it slightly by adding in a fold down dining table in place of the side gaucho.

There are two camps in this forum
1. Leave it original. Go 100%.
2. Customize it and make it yours.

I am in the second camp and prefer to customize mine to what I want. If these coaches where $30-40K in todays dollars I would keep it original, but they are not worth that much.

I would consider the financials of boths sides. What does it cost to keep it 100% original or what would it take to customize it to what you want. Then go with what your gut is telling you and don't look back. Look for good advise and double check any recommendation.


Doug
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Old 05-23-2006, 10:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy_hollow
I have a 65GT that had the same layout and I found it to be challenging when dealing with more than two people and a dog, so I changed it slightly
Slightly?

that's a bit of an understatement, don't you think?

folks, I've seen his trailer...before, and after his re-do. I'd have had a hard time altering it, myself, as it was nicely re-done by its PO. BUT, you should see his work. the changes are unique, the likes of which I've not seen anywhere else, in person, or on-line. and a very high level of craftsmanship, to boot.
Doug, you should really post some pics in your photo gallery, so others can see what an amazing job you did.

I don't know...I think sometimes we tend to shy away from such alterations to the original design out of some sense of nostalgia over these old beauties. But its also quite common that these well intentioned "improvements" turn into hack-jobs, and of course, we hate to see that...again, probably just out of the same sense of nostalgia. But if you've got Doug's cabinet making skills, I say "go for it". If you don't...well....

(p.s. doug, are you guys coming this weekend?)
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Old 05-31-2006, 06:44 PM   #10
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Hey call me!
283 4047
my name is carlos
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Old 05-31-2006, 08:01 PM   #11
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Yakima , Washington
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If you are going to gut it and redo do not throw away anything ethier store it or offer to sell or give it away on here the '65 GT owners here will more than likely want it. From your pics it looks very nice. Looks an awful lot like one I saw on ebay went for a very good price IMHO
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Old 05-31-2006, 08:10 PM   #12
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Welcome to the forum. I like your design. If the day ever comes that mine needs a overhaul that is the type of floorplan i would want. Ive always like the idea of a bed that is always down that doesnt need to be folded up every morning.

I am eager to see lots of pics of your progress. Good luck.
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Old 06-01-2006, 10:57 AM   #13
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Advances...

at this point I have taking apart the trailer and I'm in the process of doing a "shell on" floor replacement.

so far I learned:
1. take the interiors out. this is only patiente and detective work to find where the screws are.
2.- remove the propane lines
3.- remove the water lines
4.- remove the sewer lines
5.- remove the belly out. painful job 'cause some rivets still have a steel steam in it and a drill bit can not be pointed so a small grinder will help. (be careful of not damaging the aluminum sheets). since the belly should be 2 pieces side by side, is recommended to remove the rivets from the middle first and then the ones on the sides. to remove the sheets, overlap them and pull them out.
6.- remove walls and old insultion. this is a puzzle!, when you remove the wall skins some pieces of aluminum come out. put a matching number in the wall and in the piece so you remember where it goes!
7.-DO NOT REMOVE the complete FLOOR!!!!!! this can cause the shell to bend or fall. (i did not do it ). Remove the 2 rear planks. and fix the frame in that area. I did not sand blasted the frame because a)the frame was not that bad. b) sandblasting jus weakens the frame C) makes a mess. I used a wire brush in my grinder and that was just enough. I painted with tremclad rust paint primer and then tremclad aluminum color paint. DO NOT DESTROY THE EDGES OF THE FLOOR, you'll need them as a template.
8.- once the paint was dry I installed only the rear plank (just one) THE NEW FLOOR COULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO PAINT IT.
9.- remove the 2 front pieces of floor in the front. Repeat theframe fixing procedure and install only the front piece.

8.- I just removed the 2 pieces of floor in front of the door and I'm welding the bottom of the door frame.

this is all i have done so far.

9.- remember no to bolt the rear and front floor on the sides, just the ends. because to put the floor in the middle you need to streach the shell on the sides.

Also, once you remove the front floor remember to check all your wiring, cause the connections are done in the front.
green- runing lights
yellow- brakes
blue - battery
2 smaller reds breakway switch
black reverse lights (even if your trailer doesn't have a reverse lights the wire goes all the way to the back and is capped). If I'm wrong please somebody let me know.
I don't remember the color for turning lights and stop lights, if you need to know them send me a note.


part of my research/work is that when i removed the inner skins (walls) and insulation I found out a bunch of leaks. rivets are used 2 different ways in the shell. 1.- to join sheets and 2.-to fix frame parts to the shell. anyway some of these rivets get "loose" and the water leaks around the rivets and where the sheets are joint. The leaks can be fixed by 1.- with a small "scraper (like the one the dentist use for your theet) DO NOT TRY TO SEAL A LONG PIECE AT ONCE. because you have to seal it and then tight the rivets when the sealant still soft.
To tight the rivets you need 2 people. The way I'm doing it is, my brother holds the outside part of the rivet with a dolly (I dont want to wreck the look of the rivets) and inside with a pneumatic hammer set to very low work rivet by rivet. I grab a chissel round and "pointy" and with the grinder I "flattened" it to around 1/4" and I use this to apply pressure to the back of the rivet and you can see that the rivet becomes thigther and wider. BE CAAREFUL DO NOT PUT TO MUCH AIR PRESUURE IN THE HAMMER because is difficult to control and you are gonna break the rivet and hit the skin of the shell and is gonna look aweful. the pneumatic hammer are like 20 dlls and the chissel I bought 3 for 3 dlls, so is a cheap solution. it olnly requieres a being extra careful.

once the sealant is finished, I bought a few cans of black undercoating in wallmart for 3 bucks a piece and is the same stuff they use to seal the shell from inside.

DON"T BUY:
- rivets in a harware store. go to a fasteners store (way cheaper and more variety)
- dont buy bolts in a big hardware store such a RONA in canada they nail you with the prices, you can buy 5 times more for half the price in a bolt supply store
- trailer accessories (driving accessories, such a breakaway switch, brakes, external lights, jacks) in an RV parts store. they will sell the parts 4 or 5 times more expensive than if you buy it a utility trailers store, such as Princess auto" example, breakaway switch- RV store=40 dlls, Princess auto=9

cheers

Carlos



my progress:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/carlos.../ph//my_photos
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Old 06-01-2006, 01:36 PM   #14
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All I can say is WOW! You are doin a great job, keep it up.
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