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Old 05-19-2016, 04:37 PM   #1
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New drive way and pad

Hello all,

We are getting ready to put in a asphalt millings drive way and parking pad for the AS.

I was leaning towards millings, since I don't want the maintenance on a smooth asphalt drive. It will close to 700' long, so the maintenance might be expensive. Millings, not as pretty but would be fine for a country drive way.

So my question is, what has other people's experiences with asphalt driveways been like? How long should I expect it to hold up in the Fl sun?

Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:51 PM   #2
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Asphalt drive way? Good Bad? The ugly?
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:58 PM   #3
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Concrete for me
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:05 PM   #4
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:09 PM   #5
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Interested in responses to this as we are having our driveway resurfaced in a few weeks and also need to put in a pad for the trailer. I will need some form of retaining wall as the pad area slopes 16" over 30'. Are you facing that as well?

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Old 05-19-2016, 09:33 PM   #6
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I have about a 6" drop, so I going to have them roll the millings up and over.

I think pharmgeek had to build a retaining wall.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:11 AM   #7
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Black, heat, soft. ?

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Old 05-20-2016, 08:18 AM   #8
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I just spoke to company, it will be close to $2800 more to top the millings with hot asphalt. 700' long drive way is very expensive.. I guess I'll just be sticking to the millings for now.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:24 AM   #9
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My friend who has a gravel business recommended recycled ground asphalt for our driveway. Inexpensive, no cracking problems of concrete or the sun/weather damage of smooth asphalt. My concern was grass and weeds growing in it, appearance of weathering, tracking it into the house. We're looking at some crushed stone that can pack tight, be replenished. That's a long driveway, I'm curious what you finally decide.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:51 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Silverflames View Post
We are getting ready to put in a asphalt millings drive way and parking pad for the AS.

I was leaning towards millings, since I don't want the maintenance on a smooth asphalt drive. It will close to 700' long, so the maintenance might be expensive. Millings, not as pretty but would be fine for a country drive way.

So my question is, what has other people's experiences with asphalt driveways been like? How long should I expect it to hold up in the Fl sun?

Thanks!
When I worked for the Corps of Engineers, I was occasionally tasked with designing road surfaces and parking areas at CoE facilities. Soil conditions near Brooksville, Florida aren't a whole lot different than in south Louisiana, so a design that works for south Louisiana should work for you as well.

The important thing to remember is that for any asphalt surface, including recycled asphalt millings (RAM), the surface course is not really the load-bearing course. The load is borne by the graded crushed aggregate layer underneath. The asphalt course is just a binder course to keep everything in place. This is different from a concrete surface where the concrete is load-bearing.

So if you want to make a proper driveway that will last, you will need to:
excavate about 12 inches deep,
roller-compact the soil,
put down a layer of porous geotextile fabric to keep the stone from sinking into the soil,
add about a 6" layer of graded crushed aggregate (not "gravel"!) with a maximum stone size of about 2",
roller-compact the aggregate,
add your RAM in two lifts of about 3" each,
and then roller-compact the RAM. Ideally the surface should be slightly crowned, sloping to both sides from the center at 1/8" per foot for drainage, so for a 12' wide drive the edges will be 3/4-inch lower than the center.
A spray-on seal coat is optional but will close off any pores that remain in your RAM top layer to prevent water from soaking into the surface.

Roller-compacting each layer forces the aggregate and/or RAM to interlock. If you don't compact each layer as you go, then your own tow vehicle and trailer will eventually do the compacting over time, and you'll end up with ruts.

Pavement design is actually more complicated than this, but for a roadway/driveway on private property this is about the lowest level of detail that will give you something that will last more than five years. Besides, now that I'm retired I have let my professional certification lapse so I can't legally do a full-blown design anymore.
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:30 AM   #11
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Our driveway is 0.3 miles long. We first put down a clay-gravel surface. That was compacted by traffic over the next couple of years, but proved unsatisfactory due to dust when dry, and muddy when wet. So we topped it with a shoot-and-chip surface: three alternating layers of sprayed-on tar, then pea gravel, compacted between layers. Now on to 12 years it is holding up well. The wife likes the gravel road-like appearance but now it is an all-weather road--no dust, no mud. She vetoed asphalt because she didn't like the black surface. Shoot-and chip is an attractive "look" for a country-like road.
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:47 AM   #12
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I have a asphalt drive way and parking area for a couple of toys. I have parked my 2500 lb boat in the same spot for 15 years. I have nice dips in the pavement where the tires sit. I am sure my Airstream would have left worse.

Out back, I put down several inches of crusher run for a Airstream pad. It was a very dirty product. It was wet went I spread it. I drove over it to compact it. After a few rains and some time, it is turned out very hard.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:08 PM   #13
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New drive way and pad

Protagonist, thanks for the great instructions. Most of the drive way is 20+ year old gravel dirt mix and is a pretty solid base. I'll be asking for 6" of highway RAM that will then be compacted. The company has a roller that is heavier than the one I can rent, but it's $500 for them to roll it. It's $300ish for me to rent a vibration roller (2500lbs.)

Would it be better to to them roll it with the heaver roller, or would it pack better with the smaller roller over the course of a weekend? I'm sure the contractor will spend some time rolling it, but not 12-16 hours I could spend over a weekend.

Also, could I over pack it?

Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:49 PM   #14
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My friend who has a gravel business recommended recycled ground asphalt for our driveway. Inexpensive, no cracking problems of concrete or the sun/weather damage of smooth asphalt. My concern was grass and weeds growing in it, appearance of weathering, tracking it into the house. We're looking at some crushed stone that can pack tight, be replenished. That's a long driveway, I'm curious what you finally decide.
I've seen a lot rural of driveways lately that have been surfaced with crushed cement.
It is supposed to pack down rock hard.
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