JP-
If you pull the flywheel, like mentioned above, be careful and pull only from the three threaded holes in the flywheel using hardened bolts and puller, never pull from the outside it could warp the flywheel. In the Johnson manual it mentioned not to tap on the end of the crankshaft to loosen the keyway to remove the flywheel, it could damage the bearings or seals. I have done it with no problems, but thet suggest not to. good luck!
See if you can get your hands on a picture of those parts you need! I am making a mailbox out of a 50s' Johnson, took off powerhead, gutted, and stripped. I had it blasted and am taking it to be powdercoated tomorrow. Your cowling looked a little different than mine, but I have mid 50s and 60s parts which are yours if you need them, but I can't do nothin' without the pictures!! I will post a picture of the mailbox when it is finished.
extremely OC- Wally ( although it looks like I am in good company!)
Heres some of what I think is needed.
Mine just has two small valve stems with springs sticking out of each cylinder.
Can tell something belongs there.
Missing trim piece is between arrows.
__________________ Your opinion is valued, please not your opinion of someones else's opinion.
My motor looks exactly the same. Those little valves with springs are pressure release valves, I think... They activate with the pull start. Is there supposed to be something there? I thought mine was complete.
I haven't had a chance to try the latest advice for the motor mystery. Stay tuned! I'll poke around tomorrow AM. I think I'm gonna pull the fly wheel either way (I have a puller).
I've resurrected big block chevy engines seized due to moisture (putting out a fire and then sat for two years) by poring varsol into the cylinders every couple days. Each time I did this, before I put new varsol/trans fluid in I drained the pan to see what if anything got past the rings. It takes a while but eventually I freed it up, and by waiting longer on the second engine I also didn't crack any rings. It's been quite a while but I believe it was two weeks, adding a bit of varsol (new) and transmission fluid (Dextron II). The second engine we were able to fire right up and it ran and surprisingly did not burn oil. The first one ran but had cracked a ring, but we were too much in a hurry with it.
Once it finally broke free we left the spark plugs out and with a light coating of transmission fluid and WD-40 in each cylinder spun the engine over many times. We drained the pan, put a new filter on it, put oil in it, and fired it right up. We ran it for 20 minutes so it got hot, then shut it down, drained the oil and filter and replaced with new and it was great. The one we cracked the ring on had other issues anyway so it had to come apart regardless.
Barry
__________________ Barry & Donna Life is short - so's the door on an Flying Cloud (ouch) 1951 Flying Cloud 21' 1957 Pontiac Safari 2dr wagon TV
I am 90 percent sure I don't have the cowling parts , but I will double check. I do have the other parts, I just need to compare in the morning to make sure they are the right ones- they look the same.
Cool, Thanks! I found a set on eBay for a 58-59. I might go ahead and get them, even though I have a 57. Surely they'd fit?
JP
Well I have a 52 and a 53 and they are basically the same. I believe that they used the same block for a few years, at least on the early 50's engines.
I talked to a buddy of mine last night about the pressure release valves. He said if you never plan on pull starting it, they're not important. Jut be sure to keep your battery charged! You can spend more on parts for these motors than the motors cost, if you don't watch it! haha!
Big progress on my project, as we separated the hull and deck today. I sure wish I had known about these Feathercraft before I bought my finned toy, but what can you do?
Now I'll be moving on to transom and stringer repairs.
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