Can you move the flywheel at all by hand?
If stuck in gear, you could just a little.
If cylinders are rusted, zero movement.
I will ask some basics...
Plugs out?
Starter gear dis-engauged?
Lay motor spark plug holes up, and soak insides with your fav penatrator.
I have had good results from some stuff in a very busy yellow/red can from Wal-mart.
Can't remember name, is about $4.50 a can.
Looka almost cartoony on lable.
If no luck there,
Order a head gasket and pull the head off.
How much force to apply is tricky...
You can bend a rod if you get too excited.
__________________ Your opinion is valued, please not your opinion of someones else's opinion.
The fly wheel won't budge at all. I'll try the penetrator thing. Do you actually fill the cylinders with it, or just spray it in there?
starter IS disengaged, Motor IS in neutral, Plugs NOT out, but it won't budge at all. Maybe this week I can play with it a little more. I'm sorta focused on the transom for the next couple of days, though.
Pull plugs first.
Any fluid in there will lock up motor.
That may be all you need to get it to spin.
Filling cylinders with penatrator is OK, leave the plugs out until you get it spinning freely.
Ports in cylinder wall may prevent filling.
Filling is not required, just OK.
__________________ Your opinion is valued, please not your opinion of someones else's opinion.
Pull plugs first.
Any fluid in there will lock up motor.
That may be all you need to get it to spin.
Filling cylinders with penatrator is OK, leave the plugs out until you get it spinning freely.
Ports in cylinder wall may prevent filling.
Filling is not required, just OK.
cool, thanks! I'll try that tonight, if I get a sec...
Now on to the transom! Here's the latest test fit of the 2 pieces. I made them out of Hard Maple, and plan on staining them a nice golden color, before coating them with Poly. I won't put the poly on until I have drilled all the holes in there to assure maximum sealing. This afternoon, I need to run over to a buddy's shop and plane down the inner piece. It's 1", but apparently needs to be closer to 3/4" to fit behind the main transom brace. That shouldn't take long at all to get it sorted!
It occurred to me I don't think I've posted pics of the motor with the cowl of... Check it out! It's sure pretty to LOOK at. I'm 99% sure that's ORIGINAL paint, too! So I don't want to screw it up too bad. I'm only planning on re-spraying the cowl and bottom of the motor, NOT the inside...
'Crafted' up some parts for the '54...
That drain I have on bottom right rear was located in a good spot for letting water out, just looked like crap.
Was a flange with threads facing down and bolts with nuts were on the bottom too.
Very un-streamlined.
Made this "motion activated, self vacuuming, automatic bulge pump" to put in its place.
(not my idea, got it from jet-ski)
Tested with air flow, and could feel a vacuum...will see on water.
It has hose that travels up to transom, then back down to intake filter.
At top of u-turn is a very small hole to prevent siphoning, but small enough to allow drainage to work.
__________________ Your opinion is valued, please not your opinion of someones else's opinion.
Luck of finding a matching flag mount for left side is slim...
So crafted up a set so even though not as cool looking as orginal, at least they will be symmetrical.
Was surpised to find out original was not brass, dang pot metal.
These ar S/S, so will be around a while.
Gotta be more carful with vise...everything shows up when you polish.
__________________ Your opinion is valued, please not your opinion of someones else's opinion.
...Filling cylinders with penatrator is OK, leave the plugs out until you get it spinning freely.
Ports in cylinder wall may prevent filling.
Filling is not required, just OK.
Ya might wanna take it easy with the bulk volume solvents. On a reed type 2 stroke it's possible to fill the crank case and when the piston come down to the point of closing the transfer port, it can build enough pressure to bend the reeds (or blow the gasket between the two cylinders at the reed plate).
If it doesn't move back and forth any at all, pull the lower unit like doing a water pump impeller replacement. I've had the lower shaft bearing lock up due to water in the foot. It had the same effect. By dropping the lower unit, it is out of the mystery equation.
__________________ Hi Ho Silver RV!
Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie and- 'Epiphany' the 29' Airstream
Made this "motion activated, self vacuuming, automatic bulge pump" to put in its place.
Oh man! I'm gonna have to get one of those for mine! That's a sweet idea!
No more progress on the motor yet. I'm trying to finish up a few other loose ends first...
Like the TRAILER! I've got it about 90% there. I still need to do something about the fenders. i have some vintage ones I got off eBay, but would be interested in maybe getting a set of Tee Nee's to go on it, if this IS a Tee Nee Trailer. It's so hard to tell!
Anyway, all the hardware has been replaced with stainless, all the parts blasted and painted... all that's left (other than the fenders), is cutting the stainless rod for the other 2 rollers, and getting the bunk boards cut (from NEW wood, obviously!) The new bunk brackets I got are a full 2" wide, so normal 2X4s won't work. I'll either plane down a 4X4 or laminate up something to fill the gap. I haven't decided yet...
I also finished test fitting the 2 transom boards, pre-drilling them, staining and sealing them with 2 thick coats of Poly. They look great! Once they're dry (hopefully either tonight or tomorrow), I'll start the reinstallation and re-riveting of the main aluminum transom brace. It all looks great together.
I got the starter box out the other day. Turns out the boat had this exact box on it! (at least the holes all line up to holes in the rear panel). Here's the "before" pic. My plan is to strip it, polish it, and rebuild all the innards. This just won't do as is!
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