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Old 09-13-2006, 09:18 PM   #29
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Glad You are OK

Barry, I was towing a borrowed enclosed trailer from a friend of mine to move furniture. He insisted that I use his equalizer hitch. It was also a round bar design of unknown brand, but I do know it was not an Ea-Z-Lift. I experienced the loss of a bar from the socket while traveling. I discovered it upon routine inspection while stopped. The round bar was hanging by the chain to the snap up bracket. The pin clips had very little tension to hold the bars in. I will contact my friend tomorrow. Thanks for this very informative thread. I am glad that you will be able to complete your repairs, but I am sorry for your loss of time and pleasure of enjoying your "toys."
Kevin
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:40 PM   #30
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1967 24' Tradewind
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We tow with a "Valley Industries" V5 (1000#) weight equalizing hitch that is so similar to the EaZLift that it's scary. Anybody else using a Valley and concur with the similarities between it and Barry's.
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Old 09-14-2006, 10:33 AM   #31
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Same item, different name?

Probably the same item with different tags.

Failure - although I've had many miles, (and scoring too on the bars), I think it really comes down to those spring clips. They don't push those buttons in very hard. I think the design principle is good, just the exacution is poor.

Now - who has the best prices on the Reese or Draw-tite hitches?
Marc
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:52 PM   #32
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1960 24' Tradewind
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The equalizer hitch that was originally on my travelall (used 400# bars )
had round bars that had to be inserted sideways then rotated 90 degrees
into position ,absolutly never could come out. my hitch is like barry's and
i checked those pins ,they are still in the correct position .i think modifying
and installing new pins that will index far into the groove is the key,and you would have to pull the clip back to get the bars installed as opposed to having the bars snap up easy do to that pin having that angle machined into it.Im now thinking of changing the design to the equalizer design without to
much difficulty ,those pins are the problem for sure.

Scott of scottanlily
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:00 AM   #33
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Bag that hitch!

Barry et al -

This thread was very sobering to read - Glad that you survived that mega scary incident. Also REALLY glad that you have learned from it, as well as passing that knowledge on to others here....

It seems that there are more than a few that have similar hitch designs, some made years ago, that they use with not further thought given. Hope that they read this thread - or have it pointed out to them by some one here that has seen it.... Pass that knowledge on people!!!

Barry, if it was me, I would toss that hitch PRONTO and start over with your parameters in mind when getting a new hitch. Naturally, you seem to have the skills, tools and ability to reengineer the current set-up ala Scott.

Me, I'd start over. That hitch would give me the willies every time I hitched it up.... Then again, that's just me!

All the best!

Axel
SilverToy

PS - Post photos of that '40 you are getting courtesy of the Insurance co!!!
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:39 PM   #34
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Silver Toy hello,

You are right i can easily refit that poorly designed pin business .and I had
no idea of the crappy way those pins barely engage the bars.round bar or
other hitches are not inherintly bad ,but the hitch head design is ! I did a 9
day arizona trip last april and been other places since ,little did I know those bars could drop out.Anyone with that hitch setup ,very common ,needs to
get it reworked or replaced with somthing else ,and as you said ,Barry should
start over with somthing better ,especially with a long spartan that he has,
A Hensley hitch comes to mind ,as that trailer needs to really eliminate the
possibility of sway at all costs .I agree totally ,I also would feel uncomfortable with the current hitch ,the bent hitch bar itself tells me that
that hitch for that size and weight of trailer is not capable of performing the task at hand. A huge disaster really could have happened far beyond what already has happened .

Scott of scottanlily
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:23 PM   #35
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refit hitch head pin replacement changes

I refit the hitch head on my tv from these pins to the equalizer hitch design,
using the old 400# bars I had .the large 7503 bars I now use have been changed to be able to engage in the hitch head .photos to be posted now.
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:28 PM   #36
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hitch mod photos

Was only able to get three on so Ill get three more.this will eliminate the
bar drop problem permanently .you have to insert the bar sideways then rotate it into position.

Scott
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:31 PM   #37
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last photos

this business of (page cannot be displayed is really irritating) causing photo upload problems ,sorry for that everyone.here are the last couple I hope

Scott
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:39 PM   #38
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those metal tabs are 1/4 thick and 3/4 " wide ,they engage almost 3/8 into bar and welded in place from the outside ,it was pretty easy to do .i didn't show a photo of the 750# bar modified ,but it now has the look of the smaller 400# bar ,one part is machined off to allow the bar to fit up and rotate into position as i noted before.

scott
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:58 PM   #39
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Pins held in how???

Scott -

Thanks for the photos of the mod you made, and where. Since I am unfamiliar with that design, I have a question - How are the pins held in to maintain the bars within the hitch??

I see that you removed the tinny looking retainers that were there.... and I don't see a new retaining mechanism, hence the question.

Also, is the name of that hitch really "Equalizer" since I have an 'Equal-I-zer' on SilverToy and it looks nothing like that, nor is it of that design. My Eq has the bolts/pins that go thru the bars and have a retaining pin to hold them within the hitch head. Also, no chains - more of a saddle on the A frame upon which the bars slide back and forth (sometimes with GREAT BIG GROANS!!) providing the sway control. There is NO drilling in the A-frame needed for the mounting - no weakening the structure in that key area. It allows for rather severe angles in forward turning(gas stations, Oops, missed that turn situations, etc....) as well as backing, WITHOUT removal of anything - just do it. Hitching and un-hitching can be done on an angle as well. All good things in my book.

I like my hitch (surprise, right??) as it is easy to hitch in all conditions. There is no need for adjustment due to weather or other conditions - period. Not a flimsy contraption - a GOOD thing since I have a 34 footer (similar to yours Barry?) and 'The tail wagging the dog' is a BAD thing - as the thread amply demonstrates!

The hitch I have is a 10K/1000lb bars. This works VERY WELL on SilverToy. Did consider the Hensley but nearly everyone I asked about hitches prior to the decision point said the Equal-I-zer was great, up to the job, cheaper and a serious quailty product with great factory support. That all added up to a great buy. Plus the dealer gave a $200 discount including install - on the spot. Sold.

Back the thread. Seeing the photos got me thinking and so the questions appear above - Thanks for the time taken to answer!

Axel
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:33 PM   #40
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Barry, a (hopefully) simple solution to your rear-heavy problem may be to back the Porsche into the trailer. Shifting the weight of the running gear another 10 feet or so forward may be all it takes.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:25 PM   #41
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Silver toy ,it is possible its an ez-lift maybe ,but the design goes back to the 60s so I could be wrong .the early bars like the photo show have that partial
flat to go into the hitch head ,then rotate to engage the tab inside the socket. I installed the metal 1/4 inch tabs in the oval hole and then welded
them in place ,you can see they protrude into the socket as viewed from the bottom of the hitch head.The design of the style I copied they don't use
anymore ,instead the clips and pins ,certainly not the best as we have found out .I think I do mean EZ -LIFT hitch not equalizer .Most hitches made have
those pins in one form or another it looks like and I think my hitch was a drawtite .When I say tabs I mean the metal bar sections I made from
1/4 thick x 3/4 wide steel x 3/4 " long ,they are welded on the outside after they are installed permanently.Now I could have just used a 1/4 "round steel pinto engage the bar utilizing the same holes and welded them in place and then put a notch in the spring bar for fitting the bar in the hitch head ,then turninto position ,that would be just as effective ,but I made it abit more heavier duty with the steel inserts.Any way i don't have to be cocerned with
the bars dropping out anymore ,although mine never did ,but then after Barrys terrible scenario ,I won't take chances.the snap up brackets with the chains as mine has does not require any A frame drilling either ,the brackets
have a C clamp type bolt on the inside so you just tighten them to the frame.
My 60 trdwnd has additional frame support for the brackets welded to the A frame that the snap up brackets go over for extra strength .I looked at the
Equalizer hitch in my RV catalog and it is different than the regular round bar
hitch setups ,Im sure yours is a good setup .i didn't see a need for me to replace my hitch ,just fix the issue at hand ,the pins and its done .

Scott
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:30 AM   #42
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I was sold on the idea of the Reese dual cam and had planned to get that brand, but the overwhelming recommendation on the forums was to go with the Equal-i-zer brand. I thought the idea of the stirrup and cam made a lot of sense, but even the manufacture's rep from Airstream said that AS recommended the Equal-i-zer, so I took a little closer look and the system seemed much simpler and more of an "elegant" solution. As was said by SilverToy, all of the positives are there. It is easy to apply, simple to use and even my wife (AKA Princess Diva) could hitch up in a heart beat if I asked her too. But of course, I wouldn't if I wanted to keep my head on my shoulders.
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