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Old 09-07-2007, 03:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streamlean
I talked to Airstream and they said that some units have these stablizer shocks and some don't. They said that people in the 70's were actually putting them on themselves and this is why they started adding them to the later AS models.

So, I've got a bigger problem than I thought. This whole steering thing and stabilizer thread was started because when I hit a bump in just the right way the entire front end would shake like mad until I slowed down. I took it to my local mechanic and he has replaced...

1) Tie Rod Ends
2) Sway Bar Bushings
3) Shocks (with Bilsteins)
4) Gear box is leaking but not loose and mechanic said it could wait.

Has anyone here had this same thing happen to them?

Cheers,
Allen
Airstreams response is kinda how I figured it happened.

As far as your front end problems I'm surprised he didn't replace the ball joints and the Bell Crank pivots. The bell crank pivots were the biggest problem on our 310 front end along with the drag link from the steering arm to the steering gear box.

Have you test driven the moho since he replaced the above components?

No matter what I would still add the steering stabilizer to your system. Just be prepared for sticker shock. The drivers side bell crank arm costs $300 with a $100 core charge from Supersteer and a Bilstein steering stabilizer is about $90 if you shop around. I would imagine the passenger side bell crank arm is probably about the same price.

Brad
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:35 PM   #30
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i'll vote for the ball joints. (or does it have king pins?)
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:43 PM   #31
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Yep, just test drove the moho and hit the bump near my house that will cause this eratic situation. Luckily it happened there so I now know the problem is not fixed. Sucks though cause I really wanted to go camping this weekend, ugh!

Ok, so ball joints and or bell crank pivots heh? I guess that's the next thing to try.

Brad is a bell crank pivot the same thing as a bell crank? Or are those two different things? I read your post from a couple of months ago on this and you said that Super Steer are the only ones that makes these now is that right?

Cheers,
Allen
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:01 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streamlean
Yep, just test drove the moho and hit the bump near my house that will cause this eratic situation. Luckily it happened there so I now know the problem is not fixed. Sucks though cause I really wanted to go camping this weekend, ugh!

Ok, so ball joints and or bell crank pivots heh? I guess that's the next thing to try.

Brad is a bell crank pivot the same thing as a bell crank? Or are those two different things? I read your post from a couple of months ago on this and you said that Super Steer are the only ones that makes these now is that right?

Cheers,
Allen
Allen,

Our steering on the 310 was so bad we would be blown off onto the shoulder anytime a semi passed us. So the plan of attach that Susan and I took on our 310 was to try and determine which components were the worst first and then replace others as money was available.

We found that the drivers side Steering bell crank pivot (the pivot bolts to the frame with 4 bolts on the drives side and 3 on the passenger side pivot) was totally shot. The bell crank arm which pivots side to side then attaches to the steering arm and connects to the tie rod ends was also bad.

So we replaced th drivers side bell crank pivot and the steering drag link arm. We also replaced all shocks with Bilstein shocks and a new Bilstein steering stabilizer. These changes caused a huge difference in handling. We still have some steering play and we will be replacing all of the tie rod ends and ball joints next. We'll probably also replace the passenger side bell crank pivot just to say we've replaced everything related to the front steering

As for finding the bell crank arms. I checked with every parts house in the area and they all told me the parts were no longer available. I then checked with Supersteer and according to them they are remanufacturing used cores. They said they are the only source for these arms. Whether thats true or not I can't say. All I know is I couldn't find anyone that had them. That includes checking with a lot of the large truck service centers in the area. I'm just glad someone is remanufacturing them.

Total so far is (with me doing the labor)

$310 for the bell crank pivot
$300 for the bell crank arm
$400 for bilstein shocks and steering stabilizer
$60 for the steering drag link

We still have the ball joints and tie rods to go so the final cost for our front end rebuild is not yet known

Brad
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:13 PM   #33
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had on old vdub bus that behaved this way, when the tie rods and ball joints were shot...

i don't have a clue what needs to be fixed in your front end, but it's not for lack of the steering shock.

the steering shock damper is a nice feature...

but basically ALL it does is dampen some motion into the steering wheel...

while 4x4 ing or off roading, or when the hubs/wheels/tires are tossed wildly about....

the shock just dampens SOME of this motion b4 it reaches the driver...

sort of keeps the steering wheel from violently kicking...

many other claims are made by folks selling these but it's mostly hype...

on many of the mohos that DO have this feature, the shock mechanism long ago died....

and most drivers can't tell the difference...

cheers
2air'

and i sure hope you can get whatever is wrong fixed!
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Old 09-07-2007, 05:07 PM   #34
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thanks brad and 2air -

I'm leary about just bolting on the Steer Safe gizmo when something is obviously quite wrong with the original equipment.

i suppose I need to take it to a front end specialist to get it checked out properly. i think my general mechanic guy may not be up to the task on this one.

cheers,
allen
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Old 09-07-2007, 09:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streamlean
thanks brad and 2air -

I'm leary about just bolting on the Steer Safe gizmo when something is obviously quite wrong with the original equipment.

i suppose I need to take it to a front end specialist to get it checked out properly. i think my general mechanic guy may not be up to the task on this one.

cheers,
allen
We won't be putting a Steer Safe on until we know the front end is in perfect condition. Don't want anything to hide or mask front end problems.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Brad
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Old 09-15-2007, 09:45 PM   #36
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Allen,
Terry's post earlier with the testing procedures was spot on. First thing to do is establish a baseline and determine if anything else is worn. I would bet your mechanic has already completed this step. But if not a good medium duty truck shop will know what to do.

The combination of tie rod ends and bad shocks would be "interesting" when you hit a bump just the right way. If you started some kind of oscillation with the bump that the suspension or shocks could no longer control or prevent but it sounds like even with these replaced you're still getting the shimmy.

I would focus on getting everything back to "factory" standards before adding any aftermarket improvements. Steering stabilizers are a good thing for sure. You could also call a place like Colaws Salvage for what I have been calling a "slave idler arm" with the hole for the stabilizer from a [newer] wrecked P30.

BTW - cool paint job.
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Old 09-16-2007, 07:29 AM   #37
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Checking it out...

Hi Swebster-

Good point.

Ok, so I took the Woody to a Frame and Alignment shop near my house. It was a very dirty shop and I didn't even feel comfortable leaving it there to get an estimate but I did.

They kept it all day and finally I had to call them to see when to pick it up. When I got there the woman had put together an "estimate" for the work. It was over $3,000!!!! Unbeleievable. When I talked to the guy that "checked" it out he told me EVERYTHING was shot and needed replacing! This is absolutely ridiculous. The coach is very driveable and I've taken it on multiple trips without incident. Anyway, you have to be careful with these mechanics because if they think they can they'll try to get an Hawaiin vacation out of us motor homers.

Now this is a 1975 model and in a perfect world yes I would have the entire suspension replaced with brand new parts. However, you have to be realistic about these things.

So I finally had a buddy of mine come over and sit in the driver's seat and turn the wheel for me while I looked underneath myself. The steering gear box, it seems, is the main culprit for the play. It's leaking as I mentioned aboved and needs replacing anyway. The next worst thing is the driver's side bellcrank. The other parts (tie rod ends, linkage, and passenger bell crank) actually seem very tight to me on visual inspection. I know that all of these can't be visually determined (nor can the ball joints) but at least it's a start. Without everyone's help here on the board I wouldn't have known even what to look for or the part's names, thank you very much.

Like many of you have suggested I'm going to take it step by step and replace the gear box first then the bell crank to see if those two things make a difference and get rid of the shaking. I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers,
Allen
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Old 09-16-2007, 09:37 AM   #38
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colaws salvage

has an ??89 Moho that they are parting out. They might be able to help you with the part Steve mentioned ----the slave idler arm.
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:27 PM   #39
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Update...

Hi Guys -

For those of you still interested here's a quick update. I had the steering gear box replaced with a newly remanufactured unit. The steering is definitely tighter now, too tight as a matter of fact. It seems that the Power Steering pump has now gone out, ugh. It was making a whining noise before I took it in (much louder than the normal noise it makes when you turn) but I thought it just may be low onfluid or something.

So now it's pretty much stopped working altogether making it nearly impossible to stop or steer. Anyone out there know what would happen if the mechanic accidentaly switched the in/out lines? Would it burn up your power steering pump? Not looking to blame anybody just seems rather coincidental that this happened at the same time.

It will be going back into the shop, or perhaps I'll do this job myself since it doesn't look that hard. I ordered the part today because it is not available locally.

More to come...

Cheers,
Allen
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:30 PM   #40
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there might just be a LOT of air in the system. iirc there might be a filter in the pump. is the belt tight, dry (oil) and clean?
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:39 PM   #41
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the belt was loose but not oily so i tightened it today. didn't make a difference.

yesterday when I got it back and noticed the dramatic change in braking i looked in the reservoir and it was low. i put fluid in and when it warmed up the fluid came back out through the cap of the reservoir. never seen it do that before.

cheers,
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:44 PM   #42
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you've got air, and it burped. let it sit overnight and see if it improves.
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