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Old 06-03-2006, 06:49 PM   #71
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Hi Chuck,

I understand your problem, from a reverse perspective. I restored a Triumph Stag several years ago and converting the English to American was one of the more difficult tasks!

The Hedman part number you have listed is a good number for your application (69126), however, it only has a 1/4" thick header flange. (The plate that mounts to the head.) It is ceramic coated which is excellent. I think you would be happier with Hedman P/N 69820 as it, too, is coated and has a thicker (3/8") flange which shpuld stand up to the heat produced by the MH. Additionally, it is made up of 14ga tubing vice 16ga. Thicker is always better!

I have just listed several parts for sale for the 454 in the parts section of the classifieds. I cannot ship the headers due to cost. Other parts I'd consider though.

Hope this helps, I've spent many hours with my BBC (big block chevy) carbureted version. I have just purchased a 1991 Suburban with a Fuel Injected (throttle body injection) BBC. I'm learning some new things!!

Take care,
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Old 06-03-2006, 08:15 PM   #72
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Yup, Dinoburb gets it right... 3/8" flange and thicker tubing is the way for the BBC.
Why not email Summitracing.com and see what they say about shipping over there?
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Old 06-04-2006, 03:11 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
Seems like it's plumbing all related to the choke. I doubt that any of this is opening a vacuum leak in the manifold but I've never actually seen a hot air chock on the 454 before. I suspect it's just a plenum not open to the intake plenum which allows hot air from the intake to open the choke. You may consider converting to an electric choke (there are a number of kits available).

I took this picture, with a camera that is failing fast! (it started to play up a few days ago!) As you can see it’s a very amateurish design, but it works! The pipe that goes inside the induction manifold was OK but from the flared connections on the top of the flange it just came away in a cloud of rust.

It is impossible to see how big this plenum is but it appears quite cavernous. I had some 8mm brass nipples that take instrument airlines, handy, and with a little persuasion (Girt big ‘ammer!) they fitted inside the pipes. I tried to braze and solder but there was no bight, plus the difference in thickness of the metals didn’t help, and... well.... its not my trade!

The saga on the carburettor is, I hope, closing now. I rebuilt the carb with a standard gasket kit set, cleaned the metering needles, that had a crust forming on the tips – particularly the secondary’s, and Hey Presto! … the popping, banging and back-fire has gone. I took her up to 5500 revs slowly then straight open, no hesitation or misfire. The choke remains disabled for the time being as I don’t want to push my luck, besides which, the new seals on the choke bimetal spring chamber has made the operation a bit stiff and sluggish. I could see that casuing the same original problem ... again!
The engine will start with a couple of pumps on the gas, and within 30 seconds or so, will settle to idle.

The test will come in a few days when I am off to London (185 Miles each way) on a business trip and will be staying in the Airstream at a site (Campground) by the Thames. That should give me some idea on how the mileage is going.

Thank you very much in clearing up the mist over the headers, that is very much appreciated.

Chuck
Dorset UK
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Old 06-04-2006, 12:37 PM   #74
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Just come back from a "Blast-up-road" in other words, really pushing it.... and found naturally enough …. the problem has only partially gone away!

First. The Choke Hot Air pipes do not take their heat from the induction Manifold. The gasket blew out under the plate and low and behold ...its exhaust! How on earth does the exhaust get into the inlet side of the engine 'V'?

Am I right in thinking this is something to do with this reheater or heat riser, the valve flap in the right side exhaust pipe first after the manifold or header. After all the hot air chamber and the heat riser are on the same side.

Second, if you want to disable this choke don’t do as I did, short circuit the pipes so the air is drawn from the carb to the bimetal spring chamber, bypassing the heat chamber pipes. I thought is was being clever in keeping the "air moving" so to speak but the choke thought otherwise and found the air being pulled in, not being heated... well you guessed it, the choke closed, there was a smell of petrol (sorry gas)... the rest is history.
Silly me thinking I had a fuel (better?) leak due to the petrol (Doh!) smell.

I will get there. I hope before the London Trip….
Chuck
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Old 07-11-2006, 11:49 AM   #75
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Well Iíve done the London trip...... and..... its better, better than 5.7/9 miles to the gallon that is.

It ran like a dream, apart from a droning noise from, what I think may be the UJ's or some where on the drive shaft, I digress..... Yes it ran well, there and back on less than a tank full of fuel. That equates by guestimate to about 9.5-9.7 MPG.

However after a good run (50-55mph) and you then hit the traffic it starts to cough and splutter a bit, or, if after slowing down you increase the throttle considerably, then there is a strong smell of pet..... Sorry Gas.... and what feels like a misfire. On the last legs of coming home it sounded quite rough, I can only assume that as I havenít done anything ignition wise, that the plugs are due to be replaced, and possibly the leads (wires?).

One reason I did not attack the plugs yet, I canít find a socket to fit them! I have most plug spanner sizes but are these different? Any ideas out there what size socket to use Ė silly question I know but puzzling just the same.

I have some new plugs and Ignition leads on the way so we will try that.

At least starting at the carburettor end was the right way. In the end I cut the hose between the air inlet at the top of the carb and the choke hot air pick-up, and inserted a simple auto fuse, which fitted directly. It blocks off the airflow both ways. To make double sure (belts & braces), I removed the choke flap altogether!

After all this it will definitely be the exhaust. (Ö. just canít find that credit cardÖ.)
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Old 07-11-2006, 11:54 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckles
One reason I did not attack the plugs yet, I canít find a socket to fit them! I have most plug spanner sizes but are these different? Any ideas out there what size socket to use Ė silly question I know but puzzling just the same.
Spark plug socket size is 5/8", or 16mm, whichever you have in your toolbox.
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Old 07-15-2006, 07:25 PM   #77
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Thank you Terry, I ended up with a 16mm plug socket - new one by George!

And what a job.... spark plug removal is not a quick fix is it... Having to remove the front wheels was certainly a bit of a pain ....

On the drivers side there is this panel that extends from the front cross panel and blocks off all access to the front plugs. Has any one removed this altogether? does it actually do any thing, apart from making it very difficult to get at the plugs. And those heat shields around the plugs ... are they really necessary? I would have thought that without them air would pass more freely around the plug. On the front one drivers side I had to remove the bolts holding the AC pump bracket so I could move it to get at the plug. Who thought that one up!

Any way (any road-up; as we say) the plugs were all the same biscuit colour indication a good fuel mixture after the London trip, and apart from burnt out leads on two plugs, all seem quite well. The fuel fill up confirmed a figure nearer the 9 MPG.

On the question of plug leads, any experiences out there. I have been advised to stick to copper core rather than the carbon fibre and silicone types. Any thoughts on that

Chuck
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Old 07-15-2006, 08:13 PM   #78
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Chuck, good to hear your mileage figures.... I'm not sure I can say this without hurting feelings but here goes....you're doing it wrong! Did you attempt to extract the plugs from the top side? I do all my top end repair work from above. I regularly tighten up my header bolts and distain removing the wheel well inner panels as you've figured out. Once the air cleaner is out of the way you can actually reach most of the stuff down there.
It may be that you've yet to shed some of that stuff on the top of your engine related to the factory manifolds ... headers really do clean up the operation.
As far as the wires go high temp, high performance wires are worth the investment. Sixty degree plug boots keep the boots away from hot manifolds. I prefer MSD.
I had lots of trouble with my original 454 due to manifold leaks that just cut the boots in short order. Think high temp, pin hole exhaust leak against rubber....or anything for that matter??
Headers..high temp wires...lots of cold air.... good tire inflation... all measure up to happy Airstream.
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:01 PM   #79
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Glen, I did make a start from the top, but I needed to be made of rubber for the front ones drivers side. I think my 310 may be a slightly different around the dog-house as there has been some modifications done in the past. The drivers side is very tight, but there is bags of room t'other side, so it was not so much of a problem to remove those plugs.

But in the end it became quicker to take off the wheels, Thank goodness for levelling jacks! ... (yes I do realise that they are for levelling and not for changing wheels but.... when needs must.) ... I am the lazy type, at least that's what my mentor told me during my apprenticeship "..you will be a good worker because the lazy ones aways find the quickest and easiest way to do things" This was in the days before 'Health & Safety' issues!

When I change the spark leads (sorry wires) I will photo these. two look like the plug caps exploded! certainly burnt beyond use. Its surprising how they have deteriorated, as I think the PO,or at least someone had within the past 6000 miles replaced them. They looked good where you can see them. Just goes to show....
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:54 PM   #80
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Chuck, I agree the DS is a little tight. While laying almost on top of the motor I'm just able to get my arm along side the (cool) header tubes. From there I can actually reach the front 3/8 bolt at the front of the motor with my wrench...(sorry, spanner) I wear a 33 inch sleeve... metric I can't do without a book and calculator anymore.
Heat and high voltage can do wonders to these so called high temp wires. Exhaust leakage around the gaskets can cut them like a knife.
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:19 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
...Heat and high voltage can do wonders to these so called high temp wires. Exhaust leakage around the gaskets can cut them like a knife.
That is interesting Glen. It leaves the question; "is there any point to the High Temp wires?" A local lad here, strongly into all the oldies (cars & Buses), swears by straight forward copper cores, hence my hesitation in going "hi-tec"

We have a supplier/workshop in the UK., that specialises in the "Old American Iron" and I have, for the time being, ordered his sets. It will be interesting to see what they are like and how long they last.....

I take you point on the problems with stock exhaust so I will, when time and funds permit, be purchasing the tubular manifolds (Headers) and new exhaust, and hopefully 'kill two or more birds with one stone'. At the moment though its up-up-and-away, we are off again in a weeks time for a long C&W weekend, That's followed by another week, in the Cotswolds then on to a USRV show.

I intend to get as much use out of her as I have with our Classic trailer caravan, a VanRoyce. Top build of the 80's and 90's.
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Old 07-19-2006, 04:01 PM   #82
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Chuck, my money is still on high priced wires.... oh and no exhaust leaks...did I mention 60 degree spark plug boots
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:02 PM   #83
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I think you guys are calculating your mpg wrong. Last trip our in my 280, I got 18mpg! Well, when you consider that I tow a Saturn, that makes Two vehicles going down the road. 9mpgX2=18mpg.

Speaking about gas, what grade do most folks run? Mine does not like anything but high test. Is there something I could do to perhaps get to a lower grade? My coach is completely stock.

Steve
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:51 PM   #84
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Steve,
I like your idea on fuel mileage. Motorhome+race trailer+race car= 6.5x3=19.5mpg! Now thats more like it.
I run 87 octane regular fuel. Seems to work great, even towing.
Rob
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