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Old 06-17-2006, 09:49 PM   #1
Mopar Madness
 
1982 31' Airstream310
Jefferson , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Question More 1982 310 MoHo Questions

Testing out some of the systems before taking our first trip, so a few questions. An owner's manual would be nice....

1) Turned on the propane and raised the thermostat and the heater came on, good sign, but where are the vents? It didn't seem to be blowing from under the galley counter where the heater unit is located.

2) Hooked up the hose and checked all water outlets. Bled out the hot water line. How do you get hot water? Do I have to light a pilot or is it automatic?

3) There is a switch to the left of the genset starter switch on the master panel. It has no markings and doesn't illuminate anything when I switch on/off... what is it for?

4) In the bathroom there is a switch to the left of the light switch. A red light illuminates when I switch it on... what does this switch control?

5) A/S switched from alclad in mid-1982. How do I tell if mine is alclad or the subsequent aluminum alloy(?) that they switched to?

Thanks!
Walt
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:07 PM   #2
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
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First off...you can still get manuals. There are available from:


Helen Davis
Secretrial Services
PO Box 484 Sidney, OH 45365
(937) 492-8885


Each model/year is a little different but let me do my best to help:

Quote:
1) Turned on the propane and raised the thermostat and the heater came on, good sign, but where are the vents? It didn't seem to be blowing from under the galley counter where the heater unit is located.
There should be either heat registers in the kickpanels of the kitchen and or sofa which look just like louvered home registers or circular vents which are higher up and cabinets and can be turned to direct hot air where you want it. Look for both.

Also, make sure the furnace actually ignites and blows warm air. Most furnaces turn on, blow air for a while, then if the sail switch is tripped (indicating enough fan speed to safely light the burner) then they ignite. You'll know the difference as the sound changes - not to mention heat starts coming out the vents.

Quote:
2) Hooked up the hose and checked all water outlets. Bled out the hot water line. How do you get hot water? Do I have to light a pilot or is it automatic?
Look at your question number 4. That is your water heater switch on the bathroom wall. The red light will come on immediately, then the heater will try and light. If it lights then the red light goes off. If it fails then the light comes back on. The procedure is to wait about 90 seconds then try it again. If it consistantly fails than you need to check your water heater. There are numerous threads about that subject.

Quote:
3) There is a switch to the left of the genset starter switch on the master panel. It has no markings and doesn't illuminate anything when I switch on/off... what is it for?
All of the control panels are different. You'll need a manual to determine which one does what if the labels can't be read. If you can post a picture of the panel then perhaps someone with a similar model/year can give you some idea what each one does.

Quote:
4) In the bathroom there is a switch to the left of the light switch. A red light illuminates when I switch it on... what does this switch control?
See question 2 - water heater

Quote:
5) A/S switched from alclad in mid-1982. How do I tell if mine is alclad or the subsequent aluminum alloy(?) that they switched to?
If I remember you were interested in the poloshing possibilities for your year Moho. Without being an expert in cladding look to see if the aluminum has a grain or brushed look. However, keep in mind that any model year airstream can be polished. Just look at the attached picture of a polished mid eighties 345 - it'll make you feel better when someone tells you that later model airstreams can't be polished.
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:27 PM   #3
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1982 31' Airstream310
Jefferson , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Thanks Steven. I did get your reply about manuals on my last set of questions and I intend to order one next week, just didn't get to it last week. Too busy going over/checking out my new toy!

I'll try the water heater tomorrow and see if it's and working properly and also post a pick of the control panel.

As far as a mine having a grain or brushed look... probably brushed. I dunno, but given the picture you attached of a later model I'd agree it doesn't matter much. Wow, i'd love to get mine looking like that! Would a close up pic. of the skin help?

BTW, I love your flying tiger decals!
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
... question number 4. That is your water heater switch on the bathroom wall. The red light will come on immediately, then the heater will try and light. If it lights then the red light goes off. If it fails then the light comes back on. The procedure is to wait about 90 seconds then try it again...
The WH fail light must have given up the ghost in the 345 - the procedure for a cold light for mine is to manually confirm the burner is lit - if not, turn the switch off, then wait TEN MINUTES, then try again.

It has always (lately) lit on the second attempt, but only after waiting an appropriate amount of time. Soooo if a 90 second interval does not do the trick - give it a longer wait time and try it again.
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Old 06-18-2006, 10:34 AM   #5
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
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WaltL,
Pictures are always a good idea, even on the same model/year there seem to be differences.

FYI - that flying tiger look is a mockup only. A little photoshop magic...but someday, when I get her as polished as that 345 in the picture I plan to add the P40 teeth in vinyl.
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Old 06-20-2006, 10:47 AM   #6
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1982 31' Airstream310
Jefferson , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Update and Some Pics

So here's an update on my progress so far:

The H2O heater light went off quickly and very shortly thereafter I had VERY hot water in both sinks and the shower.

I found all my floor vents for the furnace but since it's been 90+ everyday I haven't tested it again.

I just finished servicing the engine, oil, plugs, new wires, etc..., installed new filteres in the roof AC's (both work great) and installed a new heater core, which I found stashed in one of the cabinets (The old one was removed and the heater hose was routed back to the engine).

I tested my drivers map light and no juice there even after trying all the panel switches.

There's a guy in town that does good elec. work on trailers and RVs, so I think I'll let him figure out my blinker/headlamp gremlins and probably the map light as well if I haven't traced it down by then.

Haven't removed/tested the bath fans yet, but see question below on that.

I have some pics. of the skin that my help determine if it is alclad or not. Not sure how many I can load. The first three are a small section I cleaned next to the stove vent: before, during and after cleaning with some Never Dull (haven't seen anyone talk about using that, but it's an acid based wadding that I used for years on the aluminum and chrome cases of on my old Ducati). Also I'll include a pic of the front.

And finally some more questions:

1) I suppose the vent on the bathroom is not supposed to be open? Do these pop up when the fan is on? The other vent housing for the shower fan appears to be down.

2) See the roof pick of the panel/repair job behind the forward AC unit. Is this a repair (looks likje it might be) or is this an access panel? There is no visible damage in the cabin underneath it.

3) See the pic of the damaged qtr skin. Can this be repaired by tearing in behind it and rolling it out, or would I have to replace the Qtr panel? Vendors?

4) I need a vendor for getting a set of horn replacements (both are broken). Need not be factory original, just a good tandem set.

5) My left rear Qtr window is glass, the right is plastic (broken and replaced I guess) or vice versa? If I were to replace the plastic with glass, any suggestions of a vendor for that?

6) On the roof, behind the main cabin vent is a U-shaped piece of metal. What is this?

Thanks again for everyone's helpful answers/comments/suggestions!

Walt
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Old 06-20-2006, 01:13 PM   #7
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On Your Way

Walt,
You're jumping right in...well done

Quote:
I just finished servicing the engine, oil, plugs, new wires, etc..., installed new filteres in the roof AC's (both work great) and installed a new heater core, which I found stashed in one of the cabinets (The old one was removed and the heater hose was routed back to the engine).
In warmer climates many of us either re-route the heater hoses or cut them off by installing ball valves. Those old heater control valves tend to let coolant by even when closed and since these babies run pretty hot most of the time it can get unbearable in the summer.

Quote:
1) I suppose the vent on the bathroom is not supposed to be open? Do these pop up when the fan is on? The other vent housing for the shower fan appears to be down.
There should be a handle on the inside of the vent that allows you to "pull" the vent closed.

Quote:
2) See the roof pick of the panel/repair job behind the forward AC unit. Is this a repair (looks likje it might be) or is this an access panel? There is no visible damage in the cabin underneath it.
Probably patching the hole where the antennae used to be located. Many of these leak and with modern satellite dishes or campground provided cable, many previous owners just decide that are not really needed and want to eliminate the leaks.

Quote:
3) See the pic of the damaged qtr skin. Can this be repaired by tearing in behind it and rolling it out, or would I have to replace the Qtr panel? Vendors?
Aluminum can't be shrunk like steel can. It only stretches so it can't really be dollied or rolled out. You could create a new panel and install it over the old one. I think those rear quarters are plain sheet stock. The upper caps are the expensive ones to replace as they are stretch formed by AS and cost big bucks.

Quote:
4) I need a vendor for getting a set of horn replacements (both are broken). Need not be factory original, just a good tandem set.
Camping world for dual trumpets (www.campingworld.com) and any car parts place for the "city horn". I replaced my trumpets with and wired them into the stock horn button, replacing both horns with one. Scroll down to the bottom of this post on my replacement (http://www.airforums.com/forum...t=horn+replace)

Quote:
5) My left rear Qtr window is glass, the right is plastic (broken and replaced I guess) or vice versa? If I were to replace the plastic with glass, any suggestions of a vendor for that?
Airstream themselves, or try Inlandrv.com or vintagetrailersupply.com. These are the same windows used in the front of the trailers.

Quote:
6) On the roof, behind the main cabin vent is a U-shaped piece of metal. What is this?
That is the supporting bracket to hold the TV antennae off the roof when it's in the down position.
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Old 06-20-2006, 02:51 PM   #8
Mopar Madness
 
1982 31' Airstream310
Jefferson , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Thanks again Steven. The previous owner had by-passed the heater controls and had installed a manual valve with a wire stem controler that pokes through the pass. kick panel... so the passenger (my wife Julie) will have control over the heat flow. I'm not going to reroute the heater hose until I need it this winter.

So you didn't mention the 3 pics. of the skin where I had before and after cleaning, and also the front pic. Any clues at all as to whether it might be an alclad AS?
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Old 06-20-2006, 03:01 PM   #9
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The hot water heater light should go on and then off quickly. It only comes on when the igniter lights up, and then goes out. I always go out and check the water heater to make sure it is fired up after the light goes out. We found that our water stays hot for a long time, so I usually shut off the heater at night, and then restart it before we will need to wash dishes the next day.
As for the polishing, if you use nevr dull or some metal polish on an area that has no clear coat it will get pretty shiny and look quite different form the surrrounding areas. If it is clear coated all you will be doing is cleaning the clear coated area..
I have found if i wax the whole thing with a good polish/sealer and not with metal polish..it will look more even and the finish will stay shined although not mirror shiny. I use the best non abrasive I can buy.
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Old 06-20-2006, 03:10 PM   #10
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also- we have a rally of forum members every 6 months in N Ga. You will meet lots of experienced Airstream folks if you join us at one. The next is in October up in Blue Ridge/ Hiawassee area. Check the Forums Rally info section.
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Old 06-20-2006, 03:21 PM   #11
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Walt,
Alan is right about the cleaning and the cearcoat. I suspect you have the "earlier" aluminum. But again, stripping the clearcoat and polishing is possible with either type.

I also highly recommend the rally Alan is talking about. I've only been once, but it was well worth it. We had a number of motorhomes there and a lot of trailers. Very nice to meet and greet and see what other people are doing to solve their problems or improve their rigs.

On the heater controls...there is a company out there that sells replacement control valves and head units for motorhomes. I can't remember their website address but it you search for heater controls on the forum you'll find it
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Old 06-20-2006, 06:09 PM   #12
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My 84 310 Limited had electric horns, not air. Based on a thread on this site I obtained replacements from Boatfix.com as follows:

Part No Item
AFI10026XL HORN DELUXE DUAL TRUMPET
Price: $101.75

After I removed the old horns and disassembled them I was able to get them to work (they were rusted and full of crud) but decided to go with the new ones.
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Old 06-22-2006, 11:54 PM   #13
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1982 31' Airstream310
Jefferson , Georgia
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GenSet

OK, I give up! I've searched page after page after page and tried to figure out how to start a new post... but to no avail. Guess I'm just stupid! There is no "new thread" anywhere on the pages I've gone to as per a post I read on how to post. This site is really, really lacking w.r.t. being user friendly for new posts.

Hopefully someone will read this and
A) tell me how to start a new post and
B) answer my question.

Quite simply, my 6.5 kW Onan no longer makes power. It starts, runs but no AC power in the cabin

I had the shore power hooked up with one AC unit on, but I drew too much power and tripped my shop breaker. So I fired up the GenSet and all was well. Then, I went into the shop and needed lights, so I flipped the breaker back on... but I still had the shorepower plugged in and the generator was running. Maybe coincidence but the breakers tripped and ever since the generator makes no power!

I've checked breakers and fuses. Everythings good. I looked for some kind of a reset on the GenSet but found nothing.

Any ideas??????

I am so bummed!
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:07 AM   #14
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Sorry you are having trouble.
1. Click on the forums tab at the top of the page.
2. Select a subforum from the list and open it.. try "our community"
3. You should see a list of threads and the new thread button. Click, follow prompts.
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