I've completed the macerator pump installation. Now, when having to suffer through the most undesirable aspect of Airstreaming, I don't even have to get my hands wet, much less chance the "slinky" slipping off at the most inopportune moment and getting any brown on my white shoes.
I don't know about other Airstream designs, but the '87 345 has only enough room for about 6' of 3" "slinky" sewerage pipe in the “wet” storage area.....only enough to make you want to try to stretch it out and dump the black tank.
I haven't had the “slinky” slip off of the connection when opening the Thetford valves (yet), but I've had to hold it on once too often.
With this setup I have 15 feet of 1” discharge hose with union connections, quick coupling wash hose with isolation valves, and a 10 gallon per minute Jabsco macerator pump to handle pumping from the black and gray tanks to the sewerage receiving head.
Quick connect water hookups make the cleanout and cleanup procedure a "dry" undertaking.
The only projection below axel height is the rubber "T" at the bottom of the pump. This is a "weak link", designed to be expendable in the face of road alligators.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
While I was running the electricals to the macerator pump, I installed a relay box to bump up the voltage to the rear lighting system. The original signal wires are only 14 guage, and the voltage gets low whenever any additional load (toad, trailer, or cargo basket) is put on the system -- that's a lonnnng way for 14 guage wire to carry any amperage at all at 12 volts.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WOW Dennis, I'll have to show this to my older son, home this weekend. John thinks the macerator is useless- Is this one of those times I stand my ground and demand a macerator??? After all we are moving the freshwater tank to grey water position and putting the clean water tank in. Perfect time to install those valves. Have you tried the bacteria digesting tablets that are advertized in Camping World catalogue??? And is it truly necessary to buy toilet paper from them? Regular toilet paper wont do? Thanks a lot ,Suz Did you get your MH home okay?
On TP - no you don't need the special stuff. The standard test is to put a sheet or two in a glass of water, wait a minute, and stir. If the paper breaks down to snowflakes or disolves, it is OK for use in the RV.
On additives - no you don't need them if your tank is properly plumbed and your seals are OK.
On the older trailer - I am looking at putting a macerator pump on a 1975 (which has started suffering gate valve leakage). All it takes is a bit of plumbing and electrical work. There are some good 'how I did it' pages on the web for ideas. Most of the plumbing parts you need can be found at home improvement stores. Plan things through first, of course, and take your time thinking through the various ways to get it done.
Thanks for info. What various things should I be thinking about? silver suz where is the mascerator pump on the trailer, or on the discharge line outside?? suz
You generally want to get the macerator pump as close to the tanks as you can. You will need a 3" to 1.5" offeset reducer (I had to hit an RV store for these - they put the 1.5" one one side of the reducer rather than the center) for each tank, a couple of 1.5" gate valves to be able to shut off the tanks, a T and an elbow or two to connect the pump. You want the pump to be accessible because it may need occasional cleaning.
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