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ScrapIrony-2 · 04-02-2009, 07:24 PM

OK, 345 owners......this out to be easy, but I can’t find it. Where is the microwave breaker? We have a breaker box, within the converter, not there. There’s an AC breaker under the dinette seat. We’ve checked the back overhead bin, and the closet, no “hidden” breakers.

This morning, the generator couldn’t start the microwave. No power, at all (no light, no clock, no anything). It’s not the generator, because the outlets are live, and everything else on the selector, works. Since it’s not getting any power, I figured we would start at the “bottom”, and work up.

Tracy

reday · 04-02-2009, 07:58 PM

Is it on or down steam from a ground fault receptacle that needs to be reset?

ScrapIrony-2 · 04-02-2009, 08:34 PM

reday - The manual refers to it, but we don’t have any (at least not the kind that I’m used to seeing).

overlander63 · 04-02-2009, 09:50 PM

Is it the only outlet without power?

ScrapIrony-2 · 04-02-2009, 10:29 PM

Terry - yes. Is it plugged into a regular outlet, in the cabinet, or hardwired?

overlander63 · 04-02-2009, 11:23 PM

Okay, next, obvious, question... Can you plug the microwave in somewhere else? Use an extension cord, you don't need to (and shouldn't, with an extension cord) turn it on, just check to see if it lights up. You could have a blown fuse in the microwave itself. Can you plug another device into the outlet, such as a light, and see if it turns on?

bkahler · 04-03-2009, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2

OK, 345 owners......this out to be easy, but I can’t find it. Where is the microwave breaker? We have a breaker box, within the converter, not there. There’s an AC breaker under the dinette seat. We’ve checked the back overhead bin, and the closet, no “hidden” breakers.

This morning, the generator couldn’t start the microwave. No power, at all (no light, no clock, no anything). It’s not the generator, because the outlets are live, and everything else on the selector, works. Since it’s not getting any power, I figured we would start at the “bottom”, and work up.

Tracy

Tracy, have you checked the breaker panel in the left rear lower corner of the motorhome? From what I have seen most Airstreams have their main power panel located in that area.

Brad

ScrapIrony-2 · 04-03-2009, 08:21 AM

Terry - Ah-ha....so it is just plugged in. Can you just take off the frame to access the plug?

Brad - Do you mean inside under the bed, or outside in one the the “drawers”?

Tracy

**azflycaster** · 04-03-2009, 08:27 AM

Tracy,
I can't help you at all with your problem, but I wanted to say Hi! Where are you guys now?

bkahler · 04-03-2009, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2

Terry - Ah-ha....so it is just plugged in. Can you just take off the frame to access the plug?

Brad - Do you mean inside under the bed, or outside in one the the “drawers”?

Tracy

In our 1984 310 motorhome and also in our 1974 Excella trailer the main electrical box is in the credenza located in the rear of the trailer. Specifically its in the left rear corner just above the floor where the electrical compartment is at the left outer rear of the trailer/motorhome.

There should be 2 to 4 breakers in the box including one which is a GFCI breaker which is most likely the one that has the microwave plugged into it.

On our motorhome I found a loose connection on the GFCI that caused it to trip anytime the DC inverter was turned on. Tightened the screw and the problem went away.

The microwave should just be plugged in. Again on our 310 motorhome you could access the cord for the microwave by reaching up from where the DC inverter was located. The outlet is right behind the ice maker in our 310.

Hope this helps!

Brad

pwhittle · 04-04-2009, 06:22 PM

I have a changeover switch to feed power to either the A/C or the microwave. On my 82 31' the switch is behind the tambour door above the cook top. The Microwave is below the cooktop.

Paul

bkahler · 04-04-2009, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwhittle

I have a changeover switch to feed power to either the A/C or the microwave. On my 82 31' the switch is behind the tambour door above the cook top. The Microwave is below the cooktop.

Paul, I totally forgot about that rotary switch! More than a time or two I've been baffled for a few moments as to why something doesn't turn on when I expect it to. Then the light bulb goes off and I remember the selector switch

.

Brad

ScrapIrony-2 · 04-04-2009, 08:15 PM

OK, I have pulled out the top drawer(we have 4 drawers under the microwave, and a storage cabinet above it) and with the use of a mirror have located the plug-in, and the only way I'm gonna reach it is to pull the microwave out...by the way, I can now repair a broken slide on a drawer after I break it...the plug-in is a standard duplex plug(big flat, little flat, and a round ground). Our 345LE is rear a twin bed, and the left(streetside) bunk has the fresh water tank under it. We have an electrical box under the kitchen drawers(not the ones under the microwave, but to the left of the stove/gas oven, which is left of the microwave). The electrical box has 6 breakers and several ATC fuses...
The rotation switch that controls micro,front/rear ac, built-in blender, and two open circuits is located in the storage compartment above the control panel, which is located in the front of the over-the-gas-stove hood. I have checked the circuit breaker for these(#5 from the left), and it works for all the other circuits...the microwave does not even have power for the clock...there HAS to be an in-line circuit SOMEWHERE that should be accessible to someone with normal arm-length such as I...doesn't there???... The micro weighs about 50 lbs, according to the manual, and will require removal of 7 frame screws(lord knows what else is lurking behind the frame...)...
mike...Tracy's "Now What...?"

richinny · 04-04-2009, 08:40 PM

does the air conditioner get power? if not, pull the microwave and check the outlet.

pwhittle · 04-05-2009, 06:23 AM

Based on what you have described, it seems to be one of the following:

1 Rotary Switch
2 Wiring from Rotary Switch to duplex outlet
3 Duplex outlet
4 The Microwave itself.

The first three can be tested by pluccing something else in the duplex outlet.

The Microwave can be tested by plugging it into an outlet that is know to work.

Paul

ScrapIrony-2 · 04-15-2009, 06:36 PM

Thanks to all for your input.
The update is that I pulled the microwave out(they are heavy), checked the plug-in receptacles(good), plugged the microwave into another receptacle(no light in the microwave, started taking screws out of the microwave in search of the elusive ceramic fuse, and finally contacted JustAnswer.com...after a couple of false starts, I was given enough direction to pull off the cabinet cover...and...there...the fuse!
Pulled out the meter, plugged the microwave in again, and the fuse tested good...having had my first look at the innards of a microwave, I realized that "over my head" was appropriate for the situation...put the cover back on, stuffed the oven back in it's hole sideways, and we now use the toaster oven...a lot...
I will take it in to someone who knows what all that stuff in there is, and knows what NOT to touch to receive the fatal shock...guess I'm just a wimp at heart...
mike

Cantrell · 04-16-2009, 06:08 AM

Mike,
I had the same problem with our microwave--it just quit working. I had resigned myself to replacing it because I figured a 20 year old unit was just done and more expensive to repair than replace. It is the original unit--an Amana Radarange--and it had worked very well. Wondering if you have the same unit in yours??

I was also accutely aware of the potential to touch something inside the unit that could deliver a fatal shock but decided to open it up just for a look. Without touching anything, I saw a little automotive style 10 amp fuse (the clear, tube style that you can see the 'filiment' running its length). It was blown so I took some insulated needle nose pliers and pulled it and put in a new one and the unit worked again just like new. That has been about two years ago and it has worked flawlessly since.

Might be worth looking inside again if you have the same unit. A 15 cent repair--doesn't get any better than that!
Bill

richinny · 04-16-2009, 12:51 PM

how did you test the fuse?

ScrapIrony-2 · 04-16-2009, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richinny

how did you test the fuse?

Pulled out my craftsman voltmeter and stuck a prong at each end...fuse bad-no volts, fuse good, volts(118)
mike

richinny · 04-17-2009, 07:21 AM

so far , so good, or is it bad??? lol sometimes the fuse ends get corroded and lose contact with the clips, i just wanted to cover that. :-)

oh, and btw, don't forget to check the grounds.