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Old 04-05-2009, 07:23 AM   #15
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Based on what you have described, it seems to be one of the following:

1 Rotary Switch
2 Wiring from Rotary Switch to duplex outlet
3 Duplex outlet
4 The Microwave itself.

The first three can be tested by pluccing something else in the duplex outlet.

The Microwave can be tested by plugging it into an outlet that is know to work.

Paul
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:36 PM   #16
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Thanks to all for your input.
The update is that I pulled the microwave out(they are heavy), checked the plug-in receptacles(good), plugged the microwave into another receptacle(no light in the microwave, started taking screws out of the microwave in search of the elusive ceramic fuse, and finally contacted JustAnswer.com...after a couple of false starts, I was given enough direction to pull off the cabinet cover...and...there...the fuse!
Pulled out the meter, plugged the microwave in again, and the fuse tested good...having had my first look at the innards of a microwave, I realized that "over my head" was appropriate for the situation...put the cover back on, stuffed the oven back in it's hole sideways, and we now use the toaster oven...a lot...
I will take it in to someone who knows what all that stuff in there is, and knows what NOT to touch to receive the fatal shock...guess I'm just a wimp at heart...
mike
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:08 AM   #17
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Mike,
I had the same problem with our microwave--it just quit working. I had resigned myself to replacing it because I figured a 20 year old unit was just done and more expensive to repair than replace. It is the original unit--an Amana Radarange--and it had worked very well. Wondering if you have the same unit in yours??

I was also accutely aware of the potential to touch something inside the unit that could deliver a fatal shock but decided to open it up just for a look. Without touching anything, I saw a little automotive style 10 amp fuse (the clear, tube style that you can see the 'filiment' running its length). It was blown so I took some insulated needle nose pliers and pulled it and put in a new one and the unit worked again just like new. That has been about two years ago and it has worked flawlessly since.

Might be worth looking inside again if you have the same unit. A 15 cent repair--doesn't get any better than that!
Bill
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:51 PM   #18
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how did you test the fuse?
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:01 PM   #19
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how did you test the fuse?
Pulled out my craftsman voltmeter and stuck a prong at each end...fuse bad-no volts, fuse good, volts(118)
mike
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:21 AM   #20
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so far , so good, or is it bad??? lol sometimes the fuse ends get corroded and lose contact with the clips, i just wanted to cover that. :-)

oh, and btw, don't forget to check the grounds.
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Old 04-18-2009, 02:03 PM   #21
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OK, 345 owners......this out to be easy, but I can’t find it. Where is the microwave breaker? We have a breaker box, within the converter, not there. There’s an AC breaker under the dinette seat. We’ve checked the back overhead bin, and the closet, no “hidden” breakers.

This morning, the generator couldn’t start the microwave. No power, at all (no light, no clock, no anything). It’s not the generator, because the outlets are live, and everything else on the selector, works. Since it’s not getting any power, I figured we would start at the “bottom”, and work up.


Tracy
Mike/Tracy-I checked the breakers on our 90-345 and found the one to the left of the GFI breaker is the one that killed the microwave circuit. All my breakers are mounted in the panel at the front of the univolt, under the kitchen drawers.(the drawers next to the doors under the sinks)
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Old 04-19-2009, 01:00 PM   #22
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Cantrell,
Ours is a Sharp...

Richinny,
The ground wire is good-no corrosion, and tight connection

345Bill,
We have NO GFI's in the unit...I hadn't noticed that till you got me looking...Our breaker panel is in the same location, and has 6 breaker switches on the left, and several automotive fuses to the right of the breakers...the plug behind the microwave works, but the micro doesn't...

We'll be in Tucson next week, for awhile, and have found a service that will come to us...will let this post know what they found(or didn't)...mike
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:05 PM   #23
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Update

We had an appliance repair company, look at it. It will cost $500-$600 to fix it. I don’t think so.

I want to stay with the mix of convection/microwave, and it is difficult to find a countertop model, that can be built in, and will fit in that cabinet spot. We decided the Sharp 820, would work best.
It looks like we can use the same “face” trim from the other one. We will wait until we get home, and have a static UPS address to order it.

I still have a “niggle”. The old one discharged the heat in the back of the cabinets, but with two convection elements, is it too much for it?

Any experience with that model?


Tracy
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:59 AM   #24
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Anyone want a 20 year old microwave/convection oven that doesn't work???pay shipping and it's YOURS...mike
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