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Old 04-23-2006, 10:10 PM   #15
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1993 21' Sovereign
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I will check tomorrow, or Tuesday, when I get back to work, and let you know if they are available, or NLA. I know if they are available, they are inexpensive.
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
I will check tomorrow, or Tuesday, when I get back to work, and let you know if they are available, or NLA. I know if they are available, they are inexpensive.
Sweet! You know me, if it's under $50 I just replace it, no questions asked. Fortunately very few repairs on the 345 are over $50. It's just that there have been about a hundred of them over the years!
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:22 AM   #17
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hello everyone
I posted some in depth info recently and it appears you guys are going in your own direction which is ok.The problem is not low voltage causing the light to come on .Instead of all your guessing and bypassing wires and grounding what you believe are hot wires you all better get a service manual showing the correct diagram for the electrical circuit, its obviouse that these coaches seem to all have the similar problem ,trial and error is ok but having correct info will help solve the problem .The voltage limiter ,limits the voltage to the gauges to about 5 volts ,which is what they operate on. the other electrical circuits dont have anything to do with the voltage limiter.The contacts inside the coolant bottle have to cause a GROUNDING! of the wire to the dash light to turn it on.That does not mean that there is not a wiring problem inherent to these GM coaches ,but where ?I think Glen C . has it right about the bottle contacts however .I will say that I have 30 years in auto/truck service proffesionally so there is experience behind what i am saying .The first thing you guys need is the service manual ,period.

Scott
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Old 04-25-2006, 06:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
hello everyone
I posted some in depth info recently and it appears you guys are going in your own direction which is ok.The problem is not low voltage causing the light to come on .Instead of all your guessing and bypassing wires and grounding what you believe are hot wires you all better get a service manual showing the correct diagram for the electrical circuit, its obviouse that these coaches seem to all have the similar problem ,trial and error is ok but having correct info will help solve the problem .The voltage limiter ,limits the voltage to the gauges to about 5 volts ,which is what they operate on. the other electrical circuits dont have anything to do with the voltage limiter.The contacts inside the coolant bottle have to cause a GROUNDING! of the wire to the dash light to turn it on.That does not mean that there is not a wiring problem inherent to these GM coaches ,but where ?I think Glen C . has it right about the bottle contacts however .I will say that I have 30 years in auto/truck service proffesionally so there is experience behind what i am saying .The first thing you guys need is the service manual ,period.

Scott
You know, Scott, I just looked back through the posts, and that is the one thing that was not tried! Duh! Try replacing the sensor, then, if you still have a problem with it, you can go on with the voltage limiter (which does control the "acuracy" of the gauges). Although no one can tell me how a circuit requires a lack of a conductive fliud to ground and turn on a light. I have a coolant level sensor for a GM vehicle in front of me, and there is one contact on it. Mounts in the radiator.
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:56 AM   #19
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Scott, your thirty years of experience must do you a great service. I've looked at the wiring diagrams until I'm cross eyed. The problem with the AS manuals and wiring is that most of the diagrams are poor at best.
As most of us seem to be enjoying this fault I'm hoping we can find a positive end to this negative situation... I volt (vote) for a better diagram of the problem solving soulution.
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:57 AM   #20
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Terry, tell us where the coolant sensor is located on our rads please!!!??? Better yet take a picture.
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:10 AM   #21
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Quote:
The first thing you guys need is the service manual ,period.
Scott, I appreciate the need and benefit of a proper service manual. If you ever get the chance to look at a manual for a classic airstream motorhome you'll see why so many of us rely on the collective experience (trial and error) of other owners to troubleshoot and diagnose these issues.

I have both the P30 manual and the Airstream Motorhome Manual and neither addresses these circuits very well. At best you have a wiring diagram for the coach and dash cluster, but it stops where it meets the chassis. The chassis manual diagrams don't assume any specific coach built on it, so there is a gap in the manuals - which is why we do what we do - share experiences and glean the best possible solution based on the total experience of the group.

Despite the lack of a manual, it is this forum which more often than not help me solve this type of issue on my coach. While most of us are amatuers at this (along with a few valued professionals) we manage quite well using virtual shop talk to gain the knowledge require to keep things working on these old coaches.

Quote:
The contacts inside the coolant bottle have to cause a GROUNDING! of the wire to the dash light to turn it on.
Here is something I can't get my head around and perhaps your experience can shed some light () on it. You mentioned that the light comes on when the coolant in the overflow connects the two contacts and complete the ground circuit. The confusion I have with this concept is that this is a low coolant light which comes on when the coolant level drops below the contacts. Grounding the circuit would need to trip a "default on" relay to the disconnected position for this light to work correctly. Am I missing something?
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:44 AM   #22
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Scott,
First let me thank you for taking time to help us with this problem. I have read your post carefully (and with hope since this problem is a major annoyance). But I don't think our dashboards and coolant sensors are set up as you describe.

As Steven described, neither the Airstream manual nor the Chevy manual have been helpful. I think we're stuck figuring this out on our own. Maybe if we all put our heads together we can.

I will try to take and post some pictures later today so that those of you who don't have access to a Classic Motorhome can see what we're dealing with.

Guy
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:16 PM   #23
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My 345 does the same thing with the Washer Fluid Low light. My volt guage shows a lower reading as I turn on more equipment. (Engine running) If I check voltage with a volt meter at the battery, or cigarette lighter, the voltage shows normal. At first I was worried that the alternator was not able to keep up with the load, but it is just a lousy indication.
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Old 04-26-2006, 02:14 PM   #24
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I spoke too soon about posting pictures. I'm in the throes of installing a new entry door for our stationary home. Of course we choose a size different form the original. I'm glad no inspector will be seeing the framing I'm doing.

Anyways, it will be a few day until I find time to remove the coolant bottle to get good pictures.

Has anyone checked out their voltage limiter?
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:53 PM   #25
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stationary home
Makes me want a license plate for the Airstream which reads, "My other home has a foundation".
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:12 PM   #26
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1993 21' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guy99
Has anyone checked out their voltage limiter?
The part is not available in the aftermarket. That would have been too easy. My next call will be to the commercial truck parts guru at Chevrolet.
Here is a photo of a Ford limiter, GM is similar:
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:47 AM   #27
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1987 29' Airstream 290
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It seems I'm having the same problem on my 87 290 coach. Light on, light off. Very frustrating. When it comes on I tend to hit the panic button. Don't want to be stranded in the desert in the heat! Under the hood a previous owner has taken the wires and attached them to one another with a screw. I guess to complete the circuit, because it probably frustrated him also. Green wire connected to white which is grounded to body. Is this my sensor wire? If so where should the green wire go to?
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #28
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I was never able to get this to work. I suspect a problem with the circuitry in the dash.
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